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[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 251

Poll Results: Which Antec cooler do you own?

 
  • 54% (152)
    Antec Kühler H2O 620
  • 45% (129)
    Antec Kühler H2O 920
281 Total Votes  
post #2501 of 6063
Sorry for the crappy cell pics but its late and I really just wanted to get a couple pictures of the rough version of my updated setup posted.

i7-3770K with Antec 920 using two Cougar CF-V12HPB PWM fans in push pull and a 38mm spacer.

PowerColor 7970 with Antec 620 using a single Cougar CF-V12HB in push.





No cleanup or customization of fan profiles, etc yet, but its all up and running. Woo! Waiting on the Dwoods bracket to finish the 620 install and get this baby organized.

Quick bench tests:

2 min Furmark @ 1125/1600 in 1080P w/ 8x MSAA (GPU temps). Min: 28C, Max 55C
4 min IBT @ 4.3 w/ stock volts (CPU temps) Min: 28C avg, Max: 68/76/74/68

I need to finish lapping the 620 and reseat with Phobya HeGrease after the bracket gets here. As for the CPU, I think I probably need a reseat as well. This was the first mount and my temps aren't as low as I'd like. All in all, a little more sorting out but seems like a decent place to start. And none of that excessive fan spin up of the pre-Kuhler days.
Edited by s1xty7 - 10/30/12 at 3:20am
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post #2502 of 6063
I ordered 8 of those PWM cougars on Sunday $10 each! How is the performance P/P vs stock fan? And the "shroud" did you test with and without it? Make any difference in temps? I could maybe trash an old 25mm fan to use as a shroud or is that too thin?
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post #2503 of 6063
Thread Starter 
920 owners,

When your PC goes off - does your antec 920 light stay on?
Mine does...I'm wondering if that's normal?

Never had it on usually, but thought for a change.
post #2504 of 6063
So far I really like the Cougars. I have more of the non PWM ones and am only using the PWMs I do have for the 920 in push/pull and as the fan for my 7970 when my Dwoods bracket arrives (got one with a 120mm mount). All seem to be relatively quiet for me (certainly not silent with the case side off). As for the push/pull and shroud thing, I never used the stock fans and I haven't tried it without the shroud yet. The little I've read about it seems to help because it eliminates the dead spot where the center of the fan is if mounted directly against the radiator. Seemed like sound logic so I just went with it. I don't know if there is any difference in the thickness of the shroud as long as the air has room to "expand" to make up for the fan center. Once I get things a little more finalized and setup, I'll probably do some comparisons to see the benefits with everything else being static.

As for the 920 light, I've only played with the 920 for a few hours, but yes the light stays on unless I flip the master switch on the PSU.
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post #2505 of 6063
Some tests would be most excellent!

I've read a little bit on shrouds. Some people seem to believe 25mm not big enough and still leaves a dead spot and that ~40mm is optimal. Just don't want to sacrifice a 25mm fan if there won't really be any benefit.
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post #2506 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

Some tests would be most excellent!
I've read a little bit on shrouds. Some people seem to believe 25mm not big enough and still leaves a dead spot and that ~40mm is optimal. Just don't want to sacrifice a 25mm fan if there won't really be any benefit.

fanshroudtest425mm1350.png

Martin did testing on this - http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/
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post #2507 of 6063
Well my ModRight filter took a lot longer to arrive than expected. Don't think I'll be ordering anything from the US again if I can help it. Cat hair is my biggest concern and this should be good enough. Regular every day dust isn't really much of an issue here thankfully.



It will be interesting to see how temperatures compare with my push/pull configured fans drawing cool air into the case instead of exhausting warm air out. Hopefully it won't add too much heat to the other components. There is the 140mm blow hole fan exhausting right there as the air exits the radiator so I'm hoping warm air won't even get the chance to pool in that area.

I know I said I wasn't going to do any lapping until I had experimented with fan configurations first, but I got bored waiting for the filter lol. So rather than put my PC back together for more testing like I should have done, especially with the time limit on my express RMA so close to running out, I went and picked up some sand paper instead (120, 220, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 3000 in all). I used Gorilla Tape to hold the sheets of sand paper to one of those full length mirrors and while laying beside it on the floor, carefully drew the cooler towards me with one hand while holding up the radiator up with the other. I found 40 strokes in that one single direction (20 for grittier papers), followed by turning it 90 degrees clockwise, worked best. I actually started out with 400 grit but quickly realized it wouldn't be enough for getting the copper plate flat. After trying 220, I settled on 120 grit while trying to be as careful as possible. Even four 8x10 sheets of that and another four of the 220 grit wasn't enough though. In the end I only managed to get approximately 90% of the copper plate flat. I did pay close attention to it's shape as it was slowly ground down, which allowed me to create a topographical map to show what I had to deal with in case anyone is interested:



Red is highest, while purple is the lowest. Turns out I was wrong about the location of the convex shape on my Kuhler 920 when I originally checked it with a ruler. As you can see it was actually off center a bit. The purple area along the top of that image is what I wasn't able to flatten. I supposed I actually could have, but it would mean grinding down four screws on the opposing side a lot more than I feel comfortable with seeing as they are already ground down a bit. The most important areas are flat enough, to the point they're a mirror finish. I didn't plan on going past 2000 grit, but the paper was very inexpensive so I figured what the heck, might as well go OCD on it lol.

I also rechecked the 3770K a few more times and it's definitely flat already, so I highly doubt I'll lap it provided things go well temperature-wise. Unlike the CPU, the Kuhler is at least still covered by it's warranty according to Antec, so long as any claims made aren't the result of the lapping that's been done. I took extra care to cover all the cords in a heavy duty ziploc bag which I tied off with a rubber band, and used the low tack putty for hanging posters to block the hole where those wires came out of, making sure to remove it all when I was done. That way copper dust couldn't get inside; good thing too because there was a fair bit of the stuff embedded in it when I was done, despite the fact I had used compressed air to blow it all off between papers. All my sanding was done dry until I got to the high grit papers (the 3000, made by 3M, can't be used dry according to it's packaging).

As for the IC24 thermal compound, I boiled some water, filled a hot water bottle with it, then laid that on top of the syringe with some fabric between them and an insulting blanket covering everything. After leaving it this way for 40 minutes, I pulled out the syringe and applied a very small amount of the compound to both the copper plate and CPU heat spreader, which I rubbed in until there was only an ultra thin haze. Even heated to make it more malleable, this compound was extremely difficult to apply. I'm sure it will be worth the effort and cost however as reviews all show the same excellent results After squeezing out a pea size blob of it on the center of the CPU, I mounted the Kuhler with only slight difficulty. The IC24 is rubbery and doesn't have much give, so even though the mounting bracket was unscrewed enough to dismount the cooler, it had to be unscrewed further (to the point it was nearly off altogether) to allow the plate to be remounted.

All I need to do now is start her up to do some stress testing. Before I do, does anyone know what type of liquid the Antec Kuhler H2O 920 is filled with? What I'd like to know primarily is whether the liquid contained within is electrically conductive or not. I probably don't have anything to worry about seeing as I was very careful every step of the way, plus I am going to run the system on it's side for a few days so any potential leaks drip out of the case, not into it. Even so it would still be nice to know prior to powering up, just so I have some idea what to expect should the unthinkable happen. I'm Googling for an answer but haven't been able to find one as of yet. Thanks in advance!

PS: Sorry for the long post. I'm just trying to be thorough in documenting everything that's happened up until now. wink.gif
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post #2508 of 6063
make sure to check and see if you need to add spacers to the mount if you had to take a good amount off the cold plate to make it flat. Mine didn't provide enough pressure after so I just ended up using an extra Corsair H60 back plate that I had instead. I would imagine using nylon washers between the back plate and the mb would also work to give you the needed pressure.
Edited by dizzyraider - 10/31/12 at 2:14pm
post #2509 of 6063
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

920 owners,
When your PC goes off - does your antec 920 light stay on?
Mine does...I'm wondering if that's normal?
Never had it on usually, but thought for a change.

no other replies....anyone with a little more time with the 920?
post #2510 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

no other replies....anyone with a little more time with the 920?

Quote:
Originally Posted by s1xty7 View Post

So far I really like the Cougars. I have more of the non PWM ones and am only using the PWMs I do have for the 920 in push/pull and as the fan for my 7970 when my Dwoods bracket arrives (got one with a 120mm mount). All seem to be relatively quiet for me (certainly not silent with the case side off). As for the push/pull and shroud thing, I never used the stock fans and I haven't tried it without the shroud yet. The little I've read about it seems to help because it eliminates the dead spot where the center of the fan is if mounted directly against the radiator. Seemed like sound logic so I just went with it. I don't know if there is any difference in the thickness of the shroud as long as the air has room to "expand" to make up for the fan center. Once I get things a little more finalized and setup, I'll probably do some comparisons to see the benefits with everything else being static.
As for the 920 light, I've only played with the 920 for a few hours, but yes the light stays on unless I flip the master switch on the PSU.

I personally went with a Water2.0 because I wasn't into the light or usb control so I wouldn't be able to ya
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