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[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 254

Poll Results: Which Antec cooler do you own?

 
  • 54% (152)
    Antec Kühler H2O 620
  • 45% (129)
    Antec Kühler H2O 920
281 Total Votes  
post #2531 of 6063
Hey fellow Kuhler users! Just popping in to say my rig is in MOTM and polls just opened. Should come check it out, maybe toss me a vote biggrin.gif
Thanks all!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1314127/october-2012-mod-of-the-month-noms-closed-poll-up-come-vote/0_50
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post #2532 of 6063
I just lapped my 620. The temps are about the same but I believe I need to let the paste cure some. Also I think I might get some of those nylon washers to put more tension on it. I sanded about 20 times in either direction and the scuff marks were still right in the center of the coldplate so it was such a huge concave that I had to do it another 20 times and then run it on 1200 grit to polish it. 1200 grit was the highest grit I could find without ordering online.

What's another way I can add more tension?

edit...DERP: I didn't realize its about 5 degrees hotter in my house than it was when I recorded the previous temps. So right now CPU temp is the same as it was before with 5 degrees hotter ambient, I'll chalk that up as a win. Paste still needs to cure.
Edited by stickg1 - 11/1/12 at 3:47pm
post #2533 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Actually I got a question, regarding that backplate.
Those metal-esk screws that go into that backplate, they don't stay securely in do they?
As mine go in fine, and bite to the screws, but when I tighten the screws even more, the metal bit starts to turn within the plastic backplate.
Almost like it was never supposed to be tightened and put on there.
My 920 is rock hard on my CPU, but just thought to mention it.

I think the new mounting mechanism is likely best to be tightened by hand. It doesn't take too much force to tighten it all the way with the thumb screw, and with the way it's designed it is impossible to over tighten and assert extra clamping force that is preset by Asetek.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zakarof View Post

Ok I see it now, thanks. I wonder which option is better; grinding down those plastic pegs or adding four nylon washers to the backplate. Both perhaps? I definitely did get the feeling both times I attached the block that the resistance, upon tightening the screws, was coming from somewhere other than the copper plate against the heat spreader. I remember being disappointed at Antec's plastic bracket when I first opened the packaging for the 920. and especially when I put the included bits together. It definitely could have been designed better. The fact that it has to warp a bit in order to fit into the four holes in the motherboard certainly says something as well. I'm starting to wonder if I wouldn't have been better off sticking to air cooling lol. wink.gif

I suggested nylon washers because if you go with the sanding route, you have to make sure all four pegs are sanded evenly and at the right amount. I didn't immediately notice that my cooler needed additional mounting pressure after lapping until I started checking the temp. I saw that my temp didn't exactly drop although it didn't get worse either, that really made no sense to me since I knew my cold plate was not flat. After reseating it two more times I realized that the pegs and the mounting screws has a set amount of distance that was only optimal for the thickness before lapping, and extra pressure was necessary to make a good contact. The results with the added pressure finally gave me the the 4 degree difference that I was expecting. With the way the mounting system is designed, depending on how much copper was taken off during the lapping process, you really do need to either grind down the mounting pegs or add nylon washers to make up for the loss in thickness of the cold plate.
post #2534 of 6063
Hey y'all I have a question reguarding switching motherboards. I haven't swapped mobo's since buying my Antec kuhler 920 and am unsure if it'll work okay during the clean windows 7 installation and all without having the antec software installed? It might sound dumb, but I just didn't want to get the asus together and push power and have the cpu on w/o the cooler. I thought it might just run 100% until the control software get's installed but not sure. Thanks
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Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
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Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
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Awesome monster!
Aerocool Strike-x s.t.
Reply
post #2535 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcompgeek View Post

I thought it might just run 100% until the control software get's installed but not sure. Thanks

What do you mean by that exactly?

Why wouldn't it work? You don't need any software to run a 920 or 620. Just make sure the pump isn't being undervolted.
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post #2536 of 6063
Will work fine, Just make sure to turn off any bios fan controls for the fan headder you are powering the pump off.
post #2537 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgjet View Post

Will work fine, Just make sure to turn off any bios fan controls for the fan headder you are powering the pump off.
You mean to just have it running at 100% correct? The cpu fan header I mean.
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MSI 990FXA-GD80 Socket AM3+ AMD 990FX DDR3 CrossFireX & 3-Way SLI SATA3 and USB 3.0 A&GbE ATX Motherboard
Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
Antec High Current Gamer HGC-400 80 plus continuous power supply
Awesome monster!
Aerocool Strike-x s.t.
Reply
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MSI 990FXA-GD80 Socket AM3+ AMD 990FX DDR3 CrossFireX & 3-Way SLI SATA3 and USB 3.0 A&GbE ATX Motherboard
Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
Antec High Current Gamer HGC-400 80 plus continuous power supply
Awesome monster!
Aerocool Strike-x s.t.
Reply
post #2538 of 6063
Yes, Or use a molex adapter.
You want the pump getting full 12V all the time other wise you end up getting a ticking pump. Or even the pump stalling if your PC is running cool enough to drop the voltage right down.


All the software does is let you change the settings inside the 920.
LED colour is stored with in it but fan profiles seem to only work when the software is loaded in windows.
post #2539 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgjet View Post

Yes, Or use a molex adapter.
You want the pump getting full 12V all the time other wise you end up getting a ticking pump. Or even the pump stalling if your PC is running cool enough to drop the voltage right down.
All the software does is let you change the settings inside the 920.
LED colour is stored with in it but fan profiles seem to only work when the software is loaded in windows.

Okay, thanks a bunch. I hve a motherboard that I've been running for about t days with a burnt outcpu fan header and #1 memory slot. It's time to get my 50 buck Asus M487TD-EVO out and try her out. It'll be y first time running w/o a mobo w/990f chipset..lol. Got it for 50 refurb fromgeeks and the only flaw I can find is no vrm heatsink butat least it has 8+2 power phases so I can o/c it fine. Proly will buy some copper vrm sinks from the egg to throw on it and if she kiks butt, then ho cool itall. Thanks again



Anyone out there used this mobo before?
MSI 990FX GD-80 Motherboard Review
MSI 990FXA-GD80 Socket AM3+ AMD 990FX DDR3 CrossFireX & 3-Way SLI SATA3 and USB 3.0 A&GbE ATX Motherboard
Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
Antec High Current Gamer HGC-400 80 plus continuous power supply
Awesome monster!
Aerocool Strike-x s.t.
Reply
MSI 990FX GD-80 Motherboard Review
MSI 990FXA-GD80 Socket AM3+ AMD 990FX DDR3 CrossFireX & 3-Way SLI SATA3 and USB 3.0 A&GbE ATX Motherboard
Antec's high current gamer 400 is a gem!
Antec High Current Gamer HGC-400 80 plus continuous power supply
Awesome monster!
Aerocool Strike-x s.t.
Reply
post #2540 of 6063
I reseated my 920 after putting in some nylon spacers and I think the results are pretty good. For testing I was running Intel Burn Test at maximum and Furmark at 1080P with 8xMSAA at the same time with the Extreme fan profile. biggrin.gif I still need to remount my 620 on my 7970 as soon as I get my Dwoods brackets. Here are the results so far and I think I'll push the GPU and CPU a little harder. I don't want to change any voltages or disable features so it will be the highest OC I can get leaving all other settings stock. Regardless, here are the current results.

i7-3770K @ 4.3GHz w/ Antec 920 in exhaust push/pull with spacer after 15 minutes of Intel Burn Test - 66C/74C/73C/66C (from RealTemp)
PowerColor 7970 @ 1200MHz core/1700MHz memory w/ Antec 620 in intake push after 10 minutes of Furmark - 50C core and 45C VRM (from GPU-Z)

Again, IBT and Furmark run concurrently. I've certainly seen better scores but given the overclocks and the heat soaking of the system while maintaining these temps, I'd say I'm pretty happy. Going for 4.5GHz stable CPU and 1300MHz core/1800MHz memory on the GPU. Might wait until I get my Dwoods bracket to try that one though. All without changing voltage!



I know, I'm a nerd.
Edited by s1xty7 - 11/3/12 at 2:23am
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