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[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 276

Poll Results: Which Antec cooler do you own?

 
  • 54% (152)
    Antec Kühler H2O 620
  • 45% (129)
    Antec Kühler H2O 920
281 Total Votes  
post #2751 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by expresso View Post

what would a good load temp should be for a A10 processor ?
would 84C be good or too high ?

For the most part AMD has a max around 70C. For a lot of the bulldozer and piledriver chips the max it 62C but around 70C your PC will shut down to protect itself. Since it is made with piledriver cores I would try to keep it under 65C.
post #2752 of 6063
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by expresso View Post

sorry for the confusing last posts -
from the start - i put together a system with the 920 cooler - on a FM2 board - A10 and Crucial memory -
first thing -- the high temps - is what i see - and chill software does not read any Sound level in dbs -- liquid temps read 38C idle -
i did a RMA on the cooler - after speaking to support - i will be removing the 920 tomorrow and when i do - i will check the screws to see if they are loose or tight -- i believe i hand tighten them and were tight - now if i try to further tighten them with a screw drivers - its possible there is more to tighten or not -
i will check that tomorrow before i remove it - since i already RMA the cooler - i will return this one and try the new one -
now - my system been having problems - screen goes black and shuts done - reboots - and when i go to shut down windows - it dosnt shut down - it reboots again - i have to use the power button to shut it down -
not sure what that is - but the black screen and shut down - thats something - it can also be that the cooler is not working correctly or i didnt tighten down enough to make it work correctly - either way now - its running hot - maybe thats the reason for the black screen and shut down on its own
i have decided since i am taking everything apart again - i will change out everything and replace with
the Intel i7 - new board - new chip - new memory and now the new cooler - start over again
its very possible this is all a cooler issue - making it run hot and shut down on its own -
does your cooler chill software show the sound level in db's ? and does it run Dead quiet ?

hmmm I think you have a seriously flawed system mate - if the PC behaves like that. The cooler is the last thing I would worry about there...
Either you have OC'ed and it is screwed, either your CPU is gone, or your cooler is bust - or all of them...lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3TAl View Post

As you probably know 12c at idle is impossible unless your ambient is 12c or lower. The zambezi and piledrivers do not read accurately at idle. Only at load it gets accurate (which is the only important temp anyways).

Quote:
Originally Posted by bf3player1978 View Post

so i will keep my fans at their current state. i doubt turning them around would cause a temp drop.

What he means is that having 12c is not possible for case temps - unless it is super cold in your room.
Try testing at full load, and see how temps are with the fans the other way round.
I suggest the fans to be pushing OUT of your case, simply because of what I said before, and the heat becoming very hot.

Basically I had them mistakenly put inward facing, and I thought it was fine at first, after my pc being on for 5hrs, with little to no load, I opened the case to check for something, and it was stupidly hot inside, that I opened the case for it to cool down. Although bearing in mind that was without a proper air flow in my case at the time.
post #2753 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by bf3player1978 View Post

so i need to turn my fans around?

That's based on if you want lower case temps or lower cpu temps. As a general rule having the rad as intake = lower cpu temp higher case temp (northbridge, vrm, gpu's maybe) and having rad as exhaust results in higher cpu temp and lower case temps.

Really I recommend to EVERYONE with a 620/920 (or any AIO cooler) try as many rad positions and fan setups as possible in a controlled testing manner. Such as 20min prime95 and record your ambient temp or try to keep ambient temp as close as the same as possible. This is what I did and worked best for me.
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post #2754 of 6063
Different points on view on this, The Kühler instructions state to use push/pull fans and use warm case air to cool its rad pointing airflow outward. On my Silverstone Raven 3 case the instructions specificly state the opposite, basicly only use push/pull fans and cool the rad using outside air only going into case. The silverstone point of view makes sense. How many cars have the radiator near the fire wall behind the engine? They always have the radiator in front of the engine where it gets the outside air first.
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post #2755 of 6063
If you have decent airflow in your case the air inside the case should be close to the air outside the case. I use my rad fans as exhaust because the air passing through the rads gets hotter and needs to be immediately expelled from the case.
post #2756 of 6063
i have two 120mm in front blowing in, 2 120mm on top as exhaust, and my push/pull as intake. i have good airflow.
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post #2757 of 6063
yeah thats why i am not going to try to figure out what part is the bad part - could be more than one

i didnt OC - - first off - its my temps were always high - and that could have been the cooler - for what ever reason - bad unit - didnt mount it tight enough etc, - at this point - dosnt matter anymore -

i got a new cooler coming on tuesday - i am taking the board - chip and memory out tomorrow -- shipping it all back - and start fresh with new parts -

since i am back to square one - i have to decide which board to use - memory etc, - most likely going with the intel this time i7 3770k

would you have any suggestions on - a good decent stable Board for the i7 - and 16 gig kit ? two sticks -

the parts i am sending back are the AMD A10 - Gigabyte FM2 UP4 board which looks very cool - but bios seemed iffy - and crucial tracer memory -

i am afraid to try Gigabyte now - unless theres a good unit out for the i7 - was looking at MSI or even intel board -

i dont see much about intel boards - any idea how good they are ? compared to the rest of the brands - ASUS - Gigabyte - MSI etc, -

last the memory - i want something to just work at rated speed when installed - if i have to set it to XMP profile - thats fine - easy to do - but dont want to ticker with the settings just yet - not right away -

i want it stock first to make sure its all working and stable - all this has been stressing me out -- too many issues all at once - and all parts were new - i didnt try to cut corners -- and i ended up this way --

Another question - My PSU is a Corsair TX750 - worked fine before all the time - but now in this case - Corsair 300 - the PSU is on the bottom and the fan is facing down in the case -- i wonder if thats correct - i mean - is the fan pushing air out or pulling air in ?

this was the only way that it fitted in the case - looks correct - - on my old case - it was on top sideways - so the fan was exposed -

now its on the bottom of my Case - Fan is down - you dont see it - just want to double check that its correct that way -

the case will be placed in a Cpu holder under my desk when done -
post #2758 of 6063
The only Intel board I ever had was a Socket 478. Zero OC options but it worked... I guess that's a plus. Not sure how the Intel boards are these days.

Most power supplies with a single fan are intake. They face downwards on bottom of case and intake air. You can tell from the angle of the fan blades.

You only hand tightened the screws for the block!! I still firmly believe you need to get a screwdriver and get them tightened up more. Contact is very important. If you just took one of those massive cpu coolers and laid it on a cpu without properly tightening it down temps would be horrible. The block needs to be tightened down all the way.
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10x Cougar Vortex PWM 3x Helix EK VGA Supremacy Acetal Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm, 2x XT45 240mm XSPC X2O 750 
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Jingway DP-600 pump Windows 8.1 Pro x64 ViewSonic VX2250 22" LED Generic HP 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4790K 4.7 GHz Z97 MPOWER MAX AC 290X Lightning G. Skill TridentX 2x8GB 10-12-12 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
2x Crucial MX100 + 960GB M500 2x WD Blue RAID EK Supremacy EK-FC R9-290X Lightning 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
EK XE 480 + EK CoolStream PE 480 10x Phanteks + 2x Cougar Vortex MCP50X + MCP50X Windows 10 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
ViewSonic VX2250 22" LED Generic HP Corsair AX860i Lian-Li DK-Q2X 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
Logitech G700 XTRAC Ripper TC Electronic Impact Twin Corsair Commander Mini 
OtherOther
Schiit Vali Kanto Yumi (Bamboo) 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8350 4.95GHz 24/7 GA-990FXA-UD3 Sapphire 7870 XT  Mushkin Redline 997051 @1866 8-8-8-24 1T 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer @1866 8-8-8-2... Black WD6401AALS 2x WD10EZEX Raid-0 EK Supremacy 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
10x Cougar Vortex PWM 3x Helix EK VGA Supremacy Acetal Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm, 2x XT45 240mm XSPC X2O 750 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Jingway DP-600 pump Windows 8.1 Pro x64 ViewSonic VX2250 22" LED Generic HP 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Rosewill HIVE-650 CM 690 II Advanced B&W  Logitech G700 Xonar DG 
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post #2759 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by expresso View Post

the chill software is not showing me the sound level in numbers like the liquid temp - pump is making a little noise - not sure if it should make any noise or just not working correctly -

It's normal for version 1.2 of ChillControl software to not show sound level numbers. The bar graph works but there are no numbers.
The earlier version 1.0 of the ChillControl software did show sound level numbers "in db" but they were just a guess based on the fan speed.
(In fact one day I got curious, did some research, and discovered that all the code was doing was dividing the fan speed by 45).
I guess when upgrading the code they decided the approximation was worthless and took out it out of the display.

As far as the pump itself making noise is concerned, mine is so quiet it's hard to tell it runs. Even if it make a bit of sound I wouldn't be concerned. If you got a quiet one too count you blessings - others apparently have ended up with real "grinders".
post #2760 of 6063
the 920 cooler has screws which you use your hands to tighten it down - now if you needed to use a screwdriver also after you hand tighten all the way down - maybe that was my mistake

i will check it when i remove it tomorrow - i will use a screw driver just to see if i am able to tighten it more - if so - then its a good guess it wasnt making good contact - if its tight already - then most likely bad unit -

still sound coming from the pump - not loud but i can hear it when fans on low - fans on high - i dont hear the pump - not using stock fans - cougar hp fans - so not screaming loud when on high


i am looking over some intel boards - hoping to pick one - to make a good match with the i7 -
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