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[Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club - Page 403

Poll Results: Which Antec cooler do you own?

 
  • 54% (152)
    Antec Kühler H2O 620
  • 45% (129)
    Antec Kühler H2O 920
281 Total Votes  
post #4021 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kipsta77 View Post

Hello Everyon! I just got the 620 yesterday along with a corsair 550d. The screws provided to mount the fan and rad are not long enough. If they were only a couple millimeteres longer they would be able to be screwed into the rad.

I went to a hardware store today and looked for a 6-32. The closest they had was 5-32, which was too thick for the radiator.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
I found screws just like from Antec 620 and Corsair H100 in a toy store that sells remote controlled aircraft, cars, boats. They were from a brand that make that kind of toys, silver color and not cross head (flat screwdriver). They work very good in my push pull conf with 2xAntec 620 and one Corsair H100i.
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post #4022 of 6063
Oh my what have we here wink.gif
post #4023 of 6063
its mutated
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INA
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post #4024 of 6063
Lol, leak testing has begun. Should I start a new thread for the how to or just put it here?
post #4025 of 6063
How do you fill with no reservoir?
post #4026 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by almighty15 View Post

How do you fill with no reservoir?
Also curious about this, and how you got all of the air out.
    
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Kuhler 620 Corsair H80 WIN 8 64 BIT Asus VG278H 120Hz 
KeyboardCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair Quickfire Rapid NZXT Switch 810 Logitech G400 Ratpadz 
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post #4027 of 6063

thumb.gif
post #4028 of 6063
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Genius Jr View Post


thumb.gif

That is awesome!!! So I can add another rad or upgrade it and using this method keep the Antec pump and cold plate combo thumb.gif

+rep
post #4029 of 6063
Yup! That's my plan in the future is to get a 240mm rad but I wanted to make sure it all worked before I spent the money. Thanks!
post #4030 of 6063
Step one:
Remove the two screws and pull out the bards from the pump assembly, make sure to have a bucket ready to drain the fluid.




Step two:
Take a knife or plastic cutters and cut lengthwise on the two retaining clamps on the Rad.




Remove the pipe, you may have to pry it off with a screwdriver.


Repeat for other side.


Step Three
Do the same for the pump side but be much more careful as the bards are plastic and you don't want to break them.






Step Four
Get some 1/4" I.D. tubing of your choice and cut it to the desired length.
Attached one side to the intake on the pump and one port on the rad and then the other tube to the pump output secured with whatever method pleases you (zip ties, hose clamps, etc.)

Step Five- Filling and bleeding
This is the tricky part. Get a container big enough to completely submerge your rad and fill it with you coolant.
Submerge the rad and wait for all of the bubbles to come up, move the rad around a bit. Have the pump out of the water with the output hose submerged.


Fill up the tubing, I just sucked through the output and it pulled the water through, pouring water into the input works also. Turn the pump on and move it around. Wait for most of the big air bubbles to come out, the pump with be a bit noisy. Turn the pump of and let it sit a while. Turn it back on and repeat until all the bubbles are gone and the pump is near silent.

Connect the last unconnected hose to the port on the rad while it is still under water, this will ensure not more air enters the system.

Let it sit and dry off and then begin leak testing it before installing in your system.

Fin!

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