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post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Alright, I'm brand spanking new to watercooling, but I've read up on it quite a bit. I just want to get some opinions of my setup and anything that may need to be added/deemed as overkill. I will also list how I'm setting up the run, so if you see something that should go in a different order, let me know about that also!

Case: Thermaltake ArmorPlus(Armor+) VH6000BWS Full Tower Computer Case
Pump: Iwaki MD-20RL 3/4 inch Barb in/outlet 378gph 220v
Radiator: Black Ice GT Stealth 360 Radiator
Radiator Fans: 3x Feser / Noiseblocker Triebwerk TK-121 NB-Multiframe® 120mm x 55mm Low Speed Fan - 1200 RPM (will change the speed to match ~ 800-900 rpm, as suggested for this radiator)
CPU: Swiftech APOGEE-XT Extreme Performance CPU Waterblock
VGA: aquagraFX for GTX 580 and GTX 570 (GF110)
MOBO: Koolance MB-ASR3E
Flow Meter: Koolance INS-FM17N Coolant Flow Meter & Frequency Adapter
Koolance Extreme Flow Quick Disconnects throughout
Reservoir: FrozenQ PC Mods Liquid Fusion V Series "2nd Generation" Reservoir 400mm
Emptying system: McMaster-Carr Barbed Tube Fittings 5670K68 Stainless Steel T-Design (1/2" all sides)
Tubing: Tygon 2075 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing # AED00038
Liquid: Feser Aqua Non Conductive Ultra Pure Water - 1000 ml (FA-0054)
Liquid Treatment: Feser Base Corrosion Blocker - 50ml (FB-0055)

The loop would go as follows:
PUMP>RAD>CPU>VGA>MOBO>FLOW>T-Fitting>Resv
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post #2 of 12
That is a very high FPI radiator and it really starts to perform with fans running faster than 2000 rpm. For those slow fans you should be looking at Swiftech MCR320 if you need a slim rad. If space is no problem then get XSPC RX360.
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post #3 of 12
Those fans are awesome, but complete overkill unless you really want to drop all that $$ in just fans Also mm67 made a good point on the FPI of that rad you listed. If you want to use those fans get the feser 360 rad

There is not much difference in the Extreme Flow QDCs and the VL3Ns (the dripless ones - actually do NOT drip at all!)... Those are what I use and they work great. Also, you don't need them at every fitting point. That would be a waste of $$ and will introduce more restriction.

Also, you might consider going CPU->MB-> GPU as it will require less tubing, and put the rad before the res. I know people on here will argue that the order doesn't matter and that the water will eventually reach equilibrium, which is true, but I'm tell you if you dump all that heated water (the water will be at its peak temp after going through all those blocks) straight into the res, then the res will dissipate that heat into the case.
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post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mm67 View Post
That is a very high FPI radiator and it really starts to perform with fans running faster than 2000 rpm. For those slow fans you should be looking at Swiftech MCR320 if you need a slim rad. If space is no problem then get XSPC RX360.
Alright, from what I've read, the Black Ice GT Stealth 360 Radiator is built for lower speed fans which is why I purchased it, for lower noise. I can see what you mean about the higher FPI and more space to cool. I was actually looking to get the swiftech before finding this one, I just read on this one that is performs at lower speed levels just as well as higher speed levels. I'll definitely look into what options I have for higher speed fans with lower noise levels.
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post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phobos223 View Post
Those fans are awesome, but complete overkill unless you really want to drop all that $$ in just fans Also mm67 made a good point on the FPI of that rad you listed. If you want to use those fans get the feser 360 rad

There is not much difference in the Extreme Flow QDCs and the VL3Ns (the dripless ones - actually do NOT drip at all!)... Those are what I use and they work great. Also, you don't need them at every fitting point. That would be a waste of $$ and will introduce more restriction.

Also, you might consider going CPU->MB-> GPU as it will require less tubing, and put the rad before the res. I know people on here will argue that the order doesn't matter and that the water will eventually reach equilibrium, which is true, but I'm tell you if you dump all that heated water (the water will be at its peak temp after going through all those blocks) straight into the res, then the res will dissipate that heat into the case.
Yea, with the QDC's I was thinking 6 total, but I guess I should use less... I read up about the restriction also, I just figured it might be really handy, with the perks of the better flow of the extreme model.

On the order part, I was thinking it would be best to cool it right after the pump because the awaki pumps would heat up the water more than I would expect the reservoir to do, as they are almost 2x bigger than that resv.. I'll do a little testing and figure out which one does heat up more. Definitely a good perspective on that one.
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post #6 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooky938 View Post
Alright, from what I've read, the Black Ice GT Stealth 360 Radiator is built for lower speed fans which is why I purchased it, for lower noise. I can see what you mean about the higher FPI and more space to cool. I was actually looking to get the swiftech before finding this one, I just read on this one that is performs at lower speed levels just as well as higher speed levels. I'll definitely look into what options I have for higher speed fans with lower noise levels.
I'd say that the only rad model from Hwlabs which is designed for low speed fans is SR-1, Stealth line is the one that needs fastest fans to perform.
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post #7 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooky938 View Post
Yea, with the QDC's I was thinking 6 total, but I guess I should use less... I read up about the restriction also, I just figured it might be really handy, with the perks of the better flow of the extreme model.

On the order part, I was thinking it would be best to cool it right after the pump because the awaki pumps would heat up the water more than I would expect the reservoir to do, as they are almost 2x bigger than that resv.. I'll do a little testing and figure out which one does heat up more. Definitely a good perspective on that one.
Yea that will be fine man. I have 6 sets in mine accross 2 loops. The resriction is not bad at all, a little less than a water block for each pair. There is actually a test of these on Skinnee's website. As far handy, you bet you a$$ they are! F-in awesome man... they dont drip when you disconnect, and they look cool to!

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post #8 of 12
Forgot to mention one of the best things about the QDCs - Get 1 extra set of them for maintenance. For this set, get the kind that have a compression fitting on the ends. Heres why:

With that set, attach a random length of tubing to each end of the fittings (couple inches or a foot or so). Then you can disconnect any of the fittings in your loop, and connect the "blank" length of hose. This way you can easily drain,fill,bleed the loop with no problems!

You can even drop that t-line and fillport (i assume that is what it was for)
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post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phobos223 View Post
Forgot to mention one of the best things about the QDCs - Get 1 extra set of them for maintenance. For this set, get the kind that have a compression fitting on the ends. Heres why:

With that set, attach a random length of tubing to each end of the fittings (couple inches or a foot or so). Then you can disconnect any of the fittings in your loop, and connect the "blank" length of hose. This way you can easily drain,fill,bleed the loop with no problems!

You can even drop that t-line and fillport (i assume that is what it was for)
Yeaaaaa I am doing just that with my T-adapter. I am putting a QDC on the end for the drain. =)
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post #10 of 12
Hello I have a question how do you feel about your tubing quality wise I am searching for black tubing for my build

Tygon R3400 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD Laboratory Tubing # AAE00038

would you recommend this.
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