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The [Official] Thermalright Silver Arrow / SB-E Club - Page 156

post #1551 of 3854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcoffin1981 View Post

I simply can't help myself. I need to always have my hands in my case and take things apart and tweak and retest. This weekend I'm gonna try the Chill Factor III, and you know what?? I'm sure it will perform exactly the same as the Gelid. Hehe, oh well.

I gave up on testing TIM's a while back. For me they all tested about the same so I stuck with ICD7. the stuff that came with my Silver Arrow was pretty good too.
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post #1552 of 3854
New sata cables came in the mail so I was successfully able to rewire my case and make it look decent.

May I join the club nao? biggrin.gif

450
post #1553 of 3854
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by `Kyle View Post

New sata cables came in the mail so I was successfully able to rewire my case and make it look decent.
May I join the club nao? biggrin.gif

Yep! OP updated. thumb.gif
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post #1554 of 3854
Okay I need some advice here. One of my TY-140s will not fit over my G.Skill Ripjaws X despite the fact that I've seen a couple of people do it. Mounting the TY-140 on the other side meant removing the heatsink sitting on the VRMs, but now I'm nervous an OC may cause them to get too hot, even though I have 12 power phases for the CPU. Suggestions?
Edited by MercurySteam - 2/15/12 at 2:41pm
post #1555 of 3854
Thread Starter 
You could do something like tw33k and have a high CFM 120mm as your push with the TY-140 in the middle. That way you can keep the VRM heatsink on your board which IMO you should definitely not remove.
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post #1556 of 3854
Quote:
Originally Posted by MercurySteam View Post

Okay I need some advice here. One of my TY-140s will not fit over my G.Skill Ripjaws X despite the fact that I've seen a couple of people do it. Mounting the TY-140 on the other side meant removing the heatsink sitting on the VRMs, but now I'm nervous an OC may cause them to get too hot, even though I have 16 power phases for the CPU. Suggestions?

Pic please?
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post #1557 of 3854
Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoticKomputing View Post

Pic please?

I'll have to do it when I get home. I was wandering if I could remove the heatsinks from the Ripjaws X which would allow me to switch the fan position and put the heatsinks back on the VRMs?

EDIT: Found out how to remove the ramsinks on the Ripjaws X here:http://www.overclock.net/t/941125/painting-ripjaws-heatsink

Gonna give it a go when I get home then put the damn VRM heatsink back on and move the TY-140 to above the RAM. Wish me luck!
Edited by MercurySteam - 2/14/12 at 8:27pm
post #1558 of 3854
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Sounds good. IMO the only RAM heatsinks do is get in the way. biggrin.gif
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post #1559 of 3854
Quote:
Originally Posted by MercurySteam View Post

I'll have to do it when I get home. I was wandering if I could remove the heatsinks from the Ripjaws X which would allow me to switch the fan position and put the heatsinks back on the VRMs?
EDIT: Found out how to remove the ramsinks on the Ripjaws X here:http://www.overclock.net/t/941125/painting-ripjaws-heatsink
Gonna give it a go when I get home then put the damn VRM heatsink back on and move the TY-140 to above the RAM. Wish me luck!

DDR3 uses less voltage then prev. generations. I would stress your ram and then touch and see if it's warm at all. But actually, if the stick is directly under the fan then there may be enough airflow to keep it cool without the heat sink or additional cooling. I too would not be comfortable removing the VRM heat sink.
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post #1560 of 3854
Quote:
Originally Posted by solsamurai View Post

Sounds good. IMO the only RAM heatsinks do is get in the way. biggrin.gif

+1. Tall heat spreaders are purely for show
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