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[Build Log] "1337 Tech" custom CPU block LGA775/1155/1366

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
Okay folks, here we go.

I recently got heavy into water cooling, and seeing as how waterblocks are such a simple mechanism, my friend and I decided to jump into designing and producing our own water blocks. Maybe we'll really make something big out of this, like a business or something... but it's really just a fun techie experiment for right now.

We are currently in the design and development phase. We are programming the top and bottom half of the block in Mastercam which we will then be run on a six-axis machine.

Here are a couple of 3D images of the design so far in Mastercam:

5620547483_23e19a9673_b.jpg

This is the bottom block which will be made of pure copper, and will be silver-rhodium plated after machining to prevent corrosion and also to supplement thermal conductivity. The square channel that is milled around the water-pocket will be filled with a liquid-rubber waterproof sealant then mate with a square key that will protrude from the top block so that they interlock for a very tight no-leak seal. The fins on the bottom of the pocket are to agitate the water as it passes over the CPU to promote better cooling and conductivity. Fun chemistry fact: Copper is the second most thermally conductive metal on the planet; Silver is the most thermally conductive.

Also, Rhodium is the most valuable and rarest naturally occurring, non-radioactive metal on the planet. $80,000/kg. Makes gold and platinum look like pocket lint =P

5620547491_73e495ac37_b.jpg

This is the top of the block which will be made of Aluminum, also silver-rhodium plated. This part is not 100% complete yet as we still have do program holes in the corners for mounting screws for the different socket sizes, cut out a protruding key on the bottom to fit into the square channel on the bottom block, and face it. Like the logo? tongue.gif

Let me know what you all think, and stay tuned! I will be updating this thing fairly frequently.
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post #2 of 18
Do not use aluminum for the top plate even if it is coated, copper and aluminum are a big no no to use together in a water loop. Id use copper for the top aswell, not only will it last longer it may add to the cooling effecienty as heat moves up the base plate and to the top.
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post #3 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal777;13132968 
Do not use aluminum for the top plate even if it is coated, copper and aluminum are a big no no to use together in a water loop. Id use copper for the top aswell, not only will it last longer it may add to the cooling effecienty as heat moves up the base plate and to the top.

This.

Good luck in your venture thumb.gif
post #4 of 18
Thread Starter 
What's wrong with using aluminum for the top? Aluminum is actually more resistant to corrosion than copper, and if plated it won't corrode at all. Plus, aluminum is also a great thermal conductor. If we made the top plate out of copper as well, then this block would be very heavy... Most waterblock manufacturers use delrin plastic and acrylic as the top of the waterblock, so I fail to see how aluminum would be in any way worse. How do you figure aluminum is so bad to use in conjunction with copper in a water loop?
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post #5 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by General Stalin;13134472 
What's wrong with using aluminum for the top? Aluminum is actually more resistant to corrosion than copper, and if plated it won't corrode at all. Plus, aluminum is also a great thermal conductor. If we made the top plate out of copper as well, then this block would be very heavy... Most waterblock manufacturers use delrin plastic and acrylic as the top of the waterblock, so I fail to see how aluminum would be in any way worse. How do you figure aluminum is so bad to use in conjunction with copper in a water loop?

the mix or something and destory each other. theres an article somewhere
     
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post #6 of 18
jst subbin in smile.gif
    
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post #7 of 18
if you look at the best of the best waterblocks then you would see that they all have copper base plates and top plates. take the Heatkiller and HF Supreme blocks, both top line blocks have copper throughout. the only real reason that they use acrylic or plastic is to cut back in the cost. even if you used plastic it would be better than aluminum.
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post #8 of 18
i hate to be a buzz kill but its harder than it sounds im a metal fabricator and 90% of my work is machining gears and other small pieces and parts for motorcycles. im currently making a set for my board and cpu to machine them like you have in the design is going to require some heavy duty machines and some serious skill. ive been doing this for the past 4 years and i do it everyday and still dont have the skill to do them that nice. if i were you i would start off with a simple mild steel bottom plate at .5in and mill it down to .35 at its center most point leaving the edges at .5in and aprox .25 wide. the next step is cut a 9mm lip inside the .5in edge all the way around (this fits your gasket) then drill 8 6-32 holes then take and mill out your checker board pattern with a 2mm bit. next take a .75 in mild steel top and mill the center down .6in leaving a .25in lip around the outside (like the bottom piece) match up the holes on the bottom piece and drill out the top piece to fit and tap the holes on the top piece to 6-32 then drill 2 holes at 9/16ths roughly .5 in apart and tap them to 1/2-16 and insert 2 brass 1/2-16 3/8in ID straight or elbow fittings your choice and buy a square oring to fit now put 4 holes on the top side of the top piece that goes .5in deep and tap to 6-32 and machine 4 2-3in hollow channel brackets and then assemble the whole piece. that is your best bet at pulling this off and its going to take you 1-2 5 day weeks if you take your time and do it right and use the proper tools.

like i said i hate to be a buzz kill but i do wish you luck and i hope it works out
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post #9 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by General Stalin;13134472 
Aluminum is actually more resistant to corrosion than copper

Nope, Aluminium is more reactive than copper[ATTACH]205684[/ATTACH]
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post #10 of 18
I'd buy platinum blocks.
    
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