Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Watercooling guide and help thread.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Watercooling guide and help thread. - Page 4

post #31 of 131
Just got my rasa kit in this morning. I was getting ready to mount the rad, and it doesn't quite fit. I am going to put it offset towards the back of he case, and I think it will look all right.

My question is do I want to pull air up through my case and through the rad or from the top down into the case?
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500k @4.0 Gigabyte GA-P67X-ud3 HIS 6950 2gb, unlocked to 6970 2x4gb Gskill Sniper 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
60gb Vertex 2, 2x1tb f3 raid0 Win 7 64 Hannspree 23 inch IBM Model M 
PowerCaseMouse
xfx 650w Haf 912 Logitech g400 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500k @4.0 Gigabyte GA-P67X-ud3 HIS 6950 2gb, unlocked to 6970 2x4gb Gskill Sniper 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
60gb Vertex 2, 2x1tb f3 raid0 Win 7 64 Hannspree 23 inch IBM Model M 
PowerCaseMouse
xfx 650w Haf 912 Logitech g400 
  hide details  
Reply
post #32 of 131
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Secretninja View Post
Just got my rasa kit in this morning. I was getting ready to mount the rad, and it doesn't quite fit. I am going to put it offset towards the back of he case, and I think it will look all right.

My question is do I want to pull air up through my case and through the rad or from the top down into the case?
If it's up top then have it exhausting out the case.

If it's down the bottom then have it intaking air into the case.

These are best because they don't fight thermal dynamics, hot air rises to you want to push the air up.

post #33 of 131
Thread Starter 
Bump for anyone that needs help
post #34 of 131
fr0st.

First thanks for making a great compilation of good information, esp those new to watercooling (Like myself), but there was one part that worried me when I read it, and that was this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by fr0st.
YOU CAN USE 7/16" ID TUBING OVER 1/2" OD BARBS WITH NO CLAMPS, THE DIFFERENCE IN DIAMETER MAKES A TIGHT ENOUGH SEAL THAT YOU DO NOT NEED CLAMPS, YOU CAN STILL USE THEM FOR PEACE OF MIND HOWEVER.
I feel that even though I am new to this, that this is a very unsafe and bad practice to do. Just 1 week ago there was a thread made by a person Here that had a tube pop off using a method close to this. 3/8 tubing over 1/2 barbs no clamps/wireties.
Now if you read though the thread you will also see he had two pumps going and that the pumps were configured possibly incorrectly and that could have lead to this happening, but there were several other examples posted in the thread by other users that had the same thing happen to them (Tube popping off the barb) even though they did NOT have any weird pump issues happening and used 7/16 tubing over 1/2 barbs.

Example 1

Example 2

Example 3


I guess at the end of the day FAQ's are usually for new people that are looking for some good, safe and sound advice to follow when getting into watercooling. While tight fitting tubing over barbs might seem safe, I have read at least a few threads with people experiencing the opposite.

This could potentially cost someone thousands of dollars by following this model (Especially people new into WC'ing). So I just suggest you change it, to recommend people to use wireties/clamps with barbs or at least add an "At your own risk" part to the current section because that style of tube/barb paring HAS been known to come off with other people doing it.

Lastly, I know some people have said that over and over that it's safe and it's worked for them. Well good, I'm glad, but when a new person comes along that wants to get involved in watercooling they want to know everything about it, including the information about the possibility that this could happen and not just that it's totally safe.

Once again thanks for a great guide and good read! Keep up the good work!
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 950 d0 Stepping OC'd to 4.2Ghz 100% Stable EVGA E758-A1 LGA 1366 3x 6950's Unlocked to 6970's and OC'd to 950 Mhz CORSAIR DOMINATOR 12GB (6 x 2GB) DDR3 @ 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
X25 SSD 80GB - OS, 2x 2TB Hitachis Data Windows 7 x64 Samsung SyncMaster 2233rz 120 Hz! Gear Head Wireless 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Rosewill BRONZE series RBR1000-M 1000W Modular Antec 1200 Razer Lachesis Razer Hard Pad Gaming Pad 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 950 d0 Stepping OC'd to 4.2Ghz 100% Stable EVGA E758-A1 LGA 1366 3x 6950's Unlocked to 6970's and OC'd to 950 Mhz CORSAIR DOMINATOR 12GB (6 x 2GB) DDR3 @ 1600Mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
X25 SSD 80GB - OS, 2x 2TB Hitachis Data Windows 7 x64 Samsung SyncMaster 2233rz 120 Hz! Gear Head Wireless 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Rosewill BRONZE series RBR1000-M 1000W Modular Antec 1200 Razer Lachesis Razer Hard Pad Gaming Pad 
  hide details  
Reply
post #35 of 131
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave2z View Post
fr0st.

First thanks for making a great compilation of good information, esp those new to watercooling (Like myself), but there was one part that worried me when I read it, and that was this:



I feel that even though I am new to this, that this is a very unsafe and bad practice to do. Just 1 week ago there was a thread made by a person Here that had a tube pop off using a method close to this. 3/8 tubing over 1/2 barbs no clamps/wireties.
Now if you read though the thread you will also see he had two pumps going and that the pumps were configured possibly incorrectly and that could have lead to this happening, but there were several other examples posted in the thread by other users that had the same thing happen to them (Tube popping off the barb) even though they did NOT have any weird pump issues happening and used 7/16 tubing over 1/2 barbs.

Example 1

Example 2

Example 3


I guess at the end of the day FAQ's are usually for new people that are looking for some good, safe and sound advice to follow when getting into watercooling. While tight fitting tubing over barbs might seem safe, I have read at least a few threads with people experiencing the opposite.

This could potentially cost someone thousands of dollars by following this model (Especially people new into WC'ing). So I just suggest you change it, to recommend people to use wireties/clamps with barbs or at least add an "At your own risk" part to the current section because that style of tube/barb paring HAS been known to come off with other people doing it.

Lastly, I know some people have said that over and over that it's safe and it's worked for them. Well good, I'm glad, but when a new person comes along that wants to get involved in watercooling they want to know everything about it, including the information about the possibility that this could happen and not just that it's totally safe.

Once again thanks for a great guide and good read! Keep up the good work!
Hmmmmm, that's interesting, I'm not sure how the pressure from a pump could push off the tubing, it's a dang tight seal. I can't even pull them off. I'lll add a disclaimer to the OP.

Thanks for the info
post #36 of 131
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave2z View Post
fr0st.

First thanks for making a great compilation of good information, esp those new to watercooling (Like myself), but there was one part that worried me when I read it, and that was this:



I feel that even though I am new to this, that this is a very unsafe and bad practice to do. Just 1 week ago there was a thread made by a person Here that had a tube pop off using a method close to this. 3/8 tubing over 1/2 barbs no clamps/wireties.
Now if you read though the thread you will also see he had two pumps going and that the pumps were configured possibly incorrectly and that could have lead to this happening, but there were several other examples posted in the thread by other users that had the same thing happen to them (Tube popping off the barb) even though they did NOT have any weird pump issues happening and used 7/16 tubing over 1/2 barbs.

Example 1

Example 2

Example 3


I guess at the end of the day FAQ's are usually for new people that are looking for some good, safe and sound advice to follow when getting into watercooling. While tight fitting tubing over barbs might seem safe, I have read at least a few threads with people experiencing the opposite.

This could potentially cost someone thousands of dollars by following this model (Especially people new into WC'ing). So I just suggest you change it, to recommend people to use wireties/clamps with barbs or at least add an "At your own risk" part to the current section because that style of tube/barb paring HAS been known to come off with other people doing it.

Lastly, I know some people have said that over and over that it's safe and it's worked for them. Well good, I'm glad, but when a new person comes along that wants to get involved in watercooling they want to know everything about it, including the information about the possibility that this could happen and not just that it's totally safe.

Once again thanks for a great guide and good read! Keep up the good work!
Personally, I find this is a bad practice as well. Clamps, ties or compressions should always be used so that there will be an external force acting to compress the tubing against the barb (as opposed to the tubing compressing the barb)

The thick walled tubes most use are more susceptible to slippage anyway. (I use 1/4" ID for most of my loop excluding a small section with 1/2" ID tubing; the 1/2" tube is removed far more easily, on the same manufacturer's barbs (enzotech). I believe this is because thick walled tubing doesn't deform as readily as thinner, smaller ones which get hooked on the barb)
post #37 of 131
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatfool View Post
Personally, I find this is a bad practice as well. Clamps, ties or compressions should always be used so that there will be an external force acting to compress the tubing against the barb (as opposed to the tubing compressing the barb)

The thick walled tubes most use are more susceptible to slippage anyway. (I use 1/4" ID for most of my loop excluding a small section with 1/2" ID tubing; the 1/2" tube is removed far more easily, on the same manufacturer's barbs (enzotech). I believe this is because thick walled tubing doesn't deform as readily as thinner, smaller ones which get hooked on the barb)
I added a disclaimer to the OP now.



I'm going away for a week now guys, so I won't be able to respond to any questions. Hopefully someone else can help you out. Maybe Charlie horse can swing around and help you out
post #38 of 131
Thread Starter 
Open for business once more, ask away!
post #39 of 131
Verry learnfull topic!

+ rep !
P!nk Ph4nt0m
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Amd 965 @4ghz Msi 790FX-GD70 HD 5870 HD 5870 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
HD 5870 4 x 4GBGEIL 1666Mhz SSD Intel postville X25M OCZ Vertex 2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
3x Samsung 2253BW Logitech K300 NZXT Hale90 850W NZXT P!nk Phantom 
MouseMouse Pad
Razer Mamba Corepad XXXLDeskpad 
  hide details  
Reply
P!nk Ph4nt0m
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Amd 965 @4ghz Msi 790FX-GD70 HD 5870 HD 5870 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
HD 5870 4 x 4GBGEIL 1666Mhz SSD Intel postville X25M OCZ Vertex 2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
3x Samsung 2253BW Logitech K300 NZXT Hale90 850W NZXT P!nk Phantom 
MouseMouse Pad
Razer Mamba Corepad XXXLDeskpad 
  hide details  
Reply
post #40 of 131
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by k.3nny View Post
Verry learnfull topic!

+ rep !
Thanks!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Watercooling guide and help thread.