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Watercooling is all here. Procrastinating.... help! :)

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Iv'e had it for 3 days and have yet to do it.

I have so many questions to ask.

Should I build the loop then let it run for 24 hours? I've heard of this many times, I have also heard of people not doing this.

Any thoughts?

I also have no idea how to properly fill my loop or bleed out the air bubbles. I have a bay reservoir and a tline, the res is a DD 5.25" bay res and has a screw off cap for filling.

I also have only 10 feet of tubing, I figured this would be enough as I am only cooling my CPU. It's going to be on a bench for awhile anyways, until I get a better case. Do you guys think 10 feet will be enough?

That's about it, any other tips would be greatly appreciated. I am usually the guy giving answers but I have always been a Watercooling wimp. LOL now that I have all the parts here I am still wimping out.

Thanks in advance for the help boys, I know you guys can help me out.

post #2 of 19
Unless your radiator, pump, and reservoir are more than 10 feet away then 10ft will be PLENTY.
    
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post #3 of 19
It's up to you if you want to run it for 24 hours. People do that to make sure temps are okay and nothing is leaking. I recommend doing that.... although you don't have to do it for 24 hours.
    
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post #4 of 19
To add to Vip's info


-10 ft is more than enough if everything is going inside a case eventually.

-No need to "leak test" for 24hrs, any leaks will start appearing within a few mins to 30 mins. Jump start your psu and only power on the pump when you leak test. To jump start your psu, undo a paper clip into a "U" shape, stick one end into the green wire and the other into any ground (black) of the 24-pin connector. Again, I'd recommend only run the pump first just in case.

-You don't have to have both a T-line and a res but there is no harm in doing so. I would fill which ever has the highest point.

-tbh, I would just use the res and use the t-line as a drain, then just fill the res, power on the pump, and fill with water as needed.

-Best way to know if air is bleeding is when the reservoir is running out of water. Again, keep a funnel or a squeeze bottle ready to fill as needed.

-Try avoiding running the pump w/out water as best as possible.
Edited by wermad - 4/15/11 at 8:50pm
post #5 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vipr3 View Post
It's up to you if you want to run it for 24 hours. People do that to make sure temps are okay and nothing is leaking. I recommend doing that.... although you don't have to do it for 24 hours.
I was in your same position just 2 days ago. You have to watch all the u-tube and read all the build logs you can, then get started. I am currently bleeding the air out of my lines which is a very slow process. I really want to just hook up the MB and peripherals and start checking out the performance, but patience is good with this.

I would definately not power up the motherboard until you have run the loop wet for several hours, even if you do not want to wait for the bleeding to stop. Yesterday I ran the loop for several hours with no leaks, then I see that the graphics WB had a slight leak at the fitting.... glad I was patient. Today I upgraded to premium hoses and will power her up in an hour or so if no more leaks.

Good luck, but don't put it off, it is not so hard to get it right.
    
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post #6 of 19
I got 10ft on my first WC build, and i screwed up twice...still have 2ft The good thing to do is, longest pieces first, then work your way to the shortest. If you screw up you can use it on something shorter.

If you want to run your loop in your PC, unplug your PSU from everything (components and Mobo), and connect a paperclip from the green to any black wire on the 24 pin Motherboard connector, then connect the pump. It's called the PSU Jumper trick. This will allow you to turn it and fill the loop without powering your board. If it leaks it will do nothing other that make you spend time cleaning it up. You should also have paper towel under any barbs/compression fittings.

For filling you want a funnel. Even if you cant get a funnel to your bay you can get a tube there and put the funnel in the tube. The key is NEVER let your Pump run dry....EVER. Even seconds can wreck it, cause a life to the pump and even failure.

Air bubbles are easy. Fill your loop and move your case around. You wont have to worry about anything on your computer cause only your pump is on. In about 24hours you'll have almost no bubbles. But over the next week or so you should periodically moving it back and forth/side to side to move any left over air bubbles.
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post #7 of 19
I'm with you, I got all my parts and it got me a little flustered. I've just been chunking away on the case mods getting everything to fit as i need it too.

Now im heading out of town but when i get back next weekend i am going to get it done.
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post #8 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vipr3 View Post
Unless your radiator, pump, and reservoir are more than 10 feet away then 10ft will be PLENTY.
LOL. Thanks for putting an end to that worry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vipr3 View Post
It's up to you if you want to run it for 24 hours. People do that to make sure temps are okay and nothing is leaking. I recommend doing that.... although you don't have to do it for 24 hours.
Not sure what you mean by temps? I was referring to building the loop without connecting it to the CPU. Just to make sure there is no leaks. Then mounting it to the motherboard.

Although it seems much harder to mount the block after I build the loop. I feel like I should mount the block and then proceed to build the loop.

What are your thoughts on cutting the tubing as well? Good scissors? Exacto Knife? Just trying to be thorough.
post #9 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoCo Man View Post
I was in your same position just 2 days ago. You have to watch all the u-tube and read all the build logs you can, then get started. I am currently bleeding the air out of my lines which is a very slow process. I really want to just hook up the MB and peripherals and start checking out the performance, but patience is good with this.

I would definately not power up the motherboard until you have run the loop wet for several hours, even if you do not want to wait for the bleeding to stop. Yesterday I ran the loop for several hours with no leaks, then I see that the graphics WB had a slight leak at the fitting.... glad I was patient. Today I upgraded to premium hoses and will power her up in an hour or so if no more leaks.

Good luck, but don't put it off, it is not so hard to get it right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by huhh View Post
I got 10ft on my first WC build, and i screwed up twice...still have 2ft The good thing to do is, longest pieces first, then work your way to the shortest. If you screw up you can use it on something shorter.

If you want to run your loop in your PC, unplug your PSU from everything (components and Mobo), and connect a paperclip from the green to any black wire on the 24 pin Motherboard connector, then connect the pump. It's called the PSU Jumper trick. This will allow you to turn it and fill the loop without powering your board. If it leaks it will do nothing other that make you spend time cleaning it up. You should also have paper towel under any barbs/compression fittings.

For filling you want a funnel. Even if you cant get a funnel to your bay you can get a tube there and put the funnel in the tube. The key is NEVER let your Pump run dry....EVER. Even seconds can wreck it, cause a life to the pump and even failure.

Air bubbles are easy. Fill your loop and move your case around. You wont have to worry about anything on your computer cause only your pump is on. In about 24hours you'll have almost no bubbles. But over the next week or so you should periodically moving it back and forth/side to side to move any left over air bubbles.
We all have the same water blocks.

Thanks for the tips guys. I will use this for sure.

This is a bench setup for now though, so I can't shake it around, hehe.

I need to fashion a way to mount my rad to the top of my case. Don't want to order anything, should be able to figure something out. Then I could do that. For now though she's a bench setup PC.

Really good to know that 10 feet is enough. I did not think it would have been. Now that I think about it though my actual loop shouldn't be much more than 6ft or so.

What I am going to do is do some measuring with the case gutted and just the mobo mounted. Cut the tubing according to where I plan on putting everything inside the case and going from there. Sounds about right no?

All I need to do is Dremel out holes for my tubing if I wanted to put it in my case. Maybe I should just do it? What do you guys think?

I am thinking yes. Quick cut, will allow me to build it exactly to what I need. Instead of all this bench crap.
post #10 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxusty View Post
LOL. Thanks for putting an end to that worry.



Not sure what you mean by temps? I was referring to building the loop without connecting it to the CPU. Just to make sure there is no leaks. Then mounting it to the motherboard.

Although it seems much harder to mount the block after I build the loop. I feel like I should mount the block and then proceed to build the loop.

What are your thoughts on cutting the tubing as well? Good scissors? Exacto Knife? Just trying to be thorough.
Good scissors make clean quick cuts. Any sharp blade will be fine. I built the loop with everything on the board this time, yesterday I just built the loop off the board and could see that mounting things were going to be way too much trouble, and I would probably kink the hose, or loosen a fitting. Just make sure everything is dry when you are ready to apply power, the distilled water or fluid will not harm the mother board in small amounts as long as you dry it off gently and reasonably quickly.
    
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