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Is SECC weaker than regular steel?

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
I have the original CM 690 which is made from SECC ("Steel, Electrogalvanized, ColdRolled, Coil") while other cases are said to be made from "Steel" such as the CM 690 II.

The reason why I'm asking if SECC is weaker is because I have completely stripped the threading for both holes at the expansion slot for the first graphics card, and so now I'm in the market for a new case. Of course, I want a case where this will be less likely to happen, except I have very strict requirements for a new case which has ultimately lead me back to the original CM 690 (I've been searching for hours).

What it boils down to is that if the metal used to make the CM 690 II is indeed stronger than this "SECC" stuff, then I will have some sacrifices to make which means I will be able to make up my mind about whether or not it's worth making those sacrifices. I mean I can just get the CM 690 again and be a little more careful (I learned a good lesson - don't tighten the screws so hard), or I can just make those sacrifices and get something much better, such as a nice Lian Li case with a shiny aluminum interior.

I know it looks like I'm asking for case recommendations, but all I want is to learn more about this "SECC" material.
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post #2 of 19
You know you dont need to tighten them up that much lol.
 
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post #3 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by terraprime;13146333 
You know you dont need to tighten them up that much lol.
Thank you, but I already said that I learned my lesson.

So, what do you have to say about SECC vs. regular steel?
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post #4 of 19
Do the two cases use the same thickness of steel?
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post #5 of 19
they are probably of similar strenght

I think secc just refers to how it is plated/rolled into sheets
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post #6 of 19
o.O trying to work out how tight you would have to tigheten them to thread it haha..

i have 1 thumb screw in my 460.. hand tightened.. and it aint going anywhere
    
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post #7 of 19
SECC just refers to the galvanized finish,the thickness and type of steel is what counts.Anything over .8mm is pretty damn strong.Weaker case are .5 -.6mm.Either way you can still strip threads in a strong case.
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post #8 of 19
unless you can find a carbon steel case which I have never heard of

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables;13146350 
Thank you, but I already said that I learned my lesson.

So, what do you have to say about SECC vs. regular steel?

From looking it up that is just how its formed, but the content of carbon in the steel will make it stronger. If you could find out the grade of steel you this Link to found out I would guess.
 
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post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables;13146297 
I have the original CM 690 which is made from SECC ("Steel, Electrogalvanized, ColdRolled, Coil") while other cases are said to be made from "Steel" such as the CM 690 II.

The reason why I'm asking if SECC is weaker is because I have completely stripped the threading for both holes at the expansion slot for the first graphics card, and so now I'm in the market for a new case. Of course, I want a case where this will be less likely to happen, except I have very strict requirements for a new case which has ultimately lead me back to the original CM 690 (I've been searching for hours).

What it boils down to is that if the metal used to make the CM 690 II is indeed stronger than this "SECC" stuff, then I will have some sacrifices to make which means I will be able to make up my mind about whether or not it's worth making those sacrifices. I mean I can just get the CM 690 again and be a little more careful (I learned a good lesson - don't tighten the screws so hard), or I can just make those sacrifices and get something much better, such as a nice Lian Li case with a shiny aluminum interior.

I know it looks like I'm asking for case recommendations, but all I want is to learn more about this "SECC" material.

Just a little tidbit of info regarding the bolded text. I did the same thing to my Antec 900 case, and what I used to solve the issue for me was motherboard standoff screws on the back of the screws holding the GPU in. This actually worked quite well, so for a temp or even long term solution (how many of us really look at the back of our cases?), this will work.
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post #10 of 19
also if you have a tap and die set you could just rethread the hole if you have the right sized tap and could even get it in there to do so.
 
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