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Truck Computer - carputer - Build Log

post #1 of 117
Thread Starter 
UDATE as of 03.29.14
I just want to leave a note at the top of this thread to apologize for not more actively managing it recently. I've found that the time commitment required for my academic pursuits is far greater than I had anticipated. However, I will post infrequent unplanned updates when I can.



Hey ladies, guys, my fellow nerds...
New Update below. I'll try to clean up this first post after I get the truck put back together.
-Wes

Current Progress


Previous, LAST UPDATE--Audio Cable Soldering

##################################################
PLAN:
##################################################

I want to install a computer and touchscreen in my truck's dash.

Why you ask? For GPS, music, video for passengers, internet and various other applications. I haven't seen much on these installs here so I figured I'd share the build and info I get along the way.

I have a truck that I use for contract work and frequent long road trips to work out of.
Truck is a 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab::



I'm getting a friend who has done custom dash work on show cars to help with the fabrication.
His job is to transform this:



##################################################
PRE-PURCHASE BUILD CONSIDERATIONS:
##################################################

The upper limit I'm thinking is a low power i3 build with a ssd main disk and 3tb storage drive.
For power I will used a DC-DC 250-300W. I haven't decided on the model yet.
Monitor I will need a Transflective Touchscreen and haven't decided on size. 7in would be cheapest to install and has the most choices. 10" widescreen would be my preference but I need to do more research on where to buy and the choices.

Other considerations::
  • Replace the stock audio headunit?
  • Where to relocate the digital a/c controls?
  • Install amp/subs?
  • Front usb ports?
  • Power switch?
  • Mouse/keyboard?
  • Power requirements--battery/alternator...
  • How to deter theft?

If I go with the 10" screen I will be using XBMC for my media content... smaller and I may look at more options or the best skin for the smaller touchscreen.

##################################################
UPDATES!
##################################################

POST-PURCHASE BUILD SPECS:
computer - core i3 2100t, GT 520, itx board, 4gb ram, 120gb ssd, 2 x 2tb storage, wifi card (was laying around unused), 250w dc-dc psu with integrated startup-shutdown controller
monitor - 10" touchscreen (non-transflective)
audio - 2 x 10" subs powered by 500w amp
Parts::




LINKED POSTS:

Purchased computer build.
Purchased monitor, psu.
Purchased subs/amp.
Before Pictures and Parts Pictures Up!
Pulled Dash.

LONGGGG Delay...

Check monitor/dash fit.


PC Test Run.



Audio Cable Routing.


Wiring Harness Work.

##################################################
CURRENT TO DO LIST
##################################################
  1. Dash work
    • Plastic weld, sand, fill/prime/paint dash.
    • Finish audio cables for wiring harness and connect all wiring.
    • Read through wiring harness and PSU manual to determine which wires other then audio cables to connect and where. Called up the people who made it. Made all the connections they said.
    • Install GPS/USB and other accessory cabling.
  2. Wiring
    • Big three upgrade (if necessary) -- I need to see what gauge wire currently is installed.
    • Run power wires to amp and psu -- 4 gauge wire for the amp, will use the same for psu. I need to determine where/what fuse to install. Done, used 8gauge for PSU and 2gauge for amp.
    • Splice monitor power cable and tie it into psu for auto power on/off with computer/truck. Done, need to update photos.
    • Run audio cables to amp location -- I might need to make these. I still need to terminate cable but the wire itself is run.
    • Run USB extensions -- will probably just put cable through a grommet on the dash in the compartment on the right hand side to make things easier.
  3. Audio
    • Mount amp to back of the cab behind the back seat.
    • Build speaker box. Ordered a pre-built one made to fit under my backseat for $100 that fit the dimensions of my subs.
    • Connect stock audio to pc and sub amp/subs.




Any input or suggestions would be great!

Thanks Guys and Gals!
.Wes
Edited by mrwesth - 3/29/14 at 2:53pm
post #2 of 117
Are we talking a truck, or a big rig?

Some things to consider:

Do you have the battery to power an i5 rig?

Do you need the power of an i5? I wouldn't think so, I would think the lowest end i3 would be more than enough.

Resolution. That's another thing to consider, especially with onboard graphics. Lots of touchscreen car monitors have wacky resolutions and with some onboard video (for instance Intel) you can't set custom resolutions if the resolution for the monitor is something out of the norm. For instance, my 7" phylon is 800x480 and I can set it to that because of the Intel graphics.

Does the PSU you picked out have a low-power feature that will turn most things on the PSU off to keep from deep-draining the battery? The one I used shuts off the 5VSB and only pull .1mA when the car is off.
Edited by Shrimpykins - 4/18/11 at 12:57pm
 
Project Al
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700k Gigabyte UD4 MSI 580GTX Lightning Xtreme Edition 3GB 2x4GB G.Skill @ 1600mhz CL6 
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OCZ Vertex II SSD OCZ Vertex II SSD LG Blu-Ray/HD-DVD Combo Drive Win 7 Ult 
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CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
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Project Al
(69 photos)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700k Gigabyte UD4 MSI 580GTX Lightning Xtreme Edition 3GB 2x4GB G.Skill @ 1600mhz CL6 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ Vertex II SSD OCZ Vertex II SSD LG Blu-Ray/HD-DVD Combo Drive Win 7 Ult 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Achieva Shimian Acer G235H XArmor U9BL Corsair HX1000W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Define R3 Silver Arrow Razer Naga Ultimate Razer Goliathus Speed Edition Polk Audio RTi-A1 
AudioAudio
Dayton Audio DTA-100a Asus Xonar STX 
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post #3 of 117
Thread Starter 
It's a chevy 1500.

Sorry, i5 was a typo. It links back to the lowest power i3 available.
I am considering an i5 though as an alternative because an alternator upgrade isn't a big deal.

I was planning on buying a display with a standard resolution if possible, but if onboard can't handle the display res, a gfx upgrade is no big deal. Again, power is not a huge concern... Alternator upgrade, second battery, whatever.

And the DC-DC psu's I'm looking at do have a usb shutdown controller. If not I will simply buy a separate power controller for these purposes. This is likely to be the psu M4-ATX 250W

Thanks for the thoughts and input!
post #4 of 117
You might want to also consider the i3-2100T as an option for a CPU. 2.5Ghz and it's only 35w TDP, so it uses VERY little power, you wouldn't need to upgrade anything on your truck. It should be more than enough power unless you are doing some heavy gaming or something. Movies, music, internet browsing etc. should all be easily handled by the i3-2100T.
 
Project Al
(69 photos)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700k Gigabyte UD4 MSI 580GTX Lightning Xtreme Edition 3GB 2x4GB G.Skill @ 1600mhz CL6 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ Vertex II SSD OCZ Vertex II SSD LG Blu-Ray/HD-DVD Combo Drive Win 7 Ult 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Achieva Shimian Acer G235H XArmor U9BL Corsair HX1000W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Define R3 Silver Arrow Razer Naga Ultimate Razer Goliathus Speed Edition Polk Audio RTi-A1 
AudioAudio
Dayton Audio DTA-100a Asus Xonar STX 
  hide details  
Reply
 
Project Al
(69 photos)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700k Gigabyte UD4 MSI 580GTX Lightning Xtreme Edition 3GB 2x4GB G.Skill @ 1600mhz CL6 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ Vertex II SSD OCZ Vertex II SSD LG Blu-Ray/HD-DVD Combo Drive Win 7 Ult 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Achieva Shimian Acer G235H XArmor U9BL Corsair HX1000W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Define R3 Silver Arrow Razer Naga Ultimate Razer Goliathus Speed Edition Polk Audio RTi-A1 
AudioAudio
Dayton Audio DTA-100a Asus Xonar STX 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 117
zacate could work well too if you're willing to go amd
Current PC
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 @ ~3.6 EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 X58 3-Way SLI BFG GTX 285 OC Mushkin 6GB 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Intel 120GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 1.5 Windows 7 Corsair 750 HAF 932 
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Current PC
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 @ ~3.6 EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 X58 3-Way SLI BFG GTX 285 OC Mushkin 6GB 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Intel 120GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 1.5 Windows 7 Corsair 750 HAF 932 
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post #6 of 117
Wouldn't it be bad for the computer especially the HDD when in a truck? All those little bumps would affect it.
Closet Computer.
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500k. MSI P67A-G43. Asus DirectCU Radeon HD 6870. G.skill RipjawX (2x2) 1333Mhz. 
Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
WD Blue 500GB. Windows 7 Home Premium. hp f2304 @ 1980x1200. Old DELL @ 1280x1024 Corsair HX850. 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Phantom Black. Razer Deathadder 3.5G. Razer Scarab. X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro. 
Audio
Sennheiser HD555. 
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Closet Computer.
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500k. MSI P67A-G43. Asus DirectCU Radeon HD 6870. G.skill RipjawX (2x2) 1333Mhz. 
Hard DriveOSMonitorPower
WD Blue 500GB. Windows 7 Home Premium. hp f2304 @ 1980x1200. Old DELL @ 1280x1024 Corsair HX850. 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
NZXT Phantom Black. Razer Deathadder 3.5G. Razer Scarab. X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Pro. 
Audio
Sennheiser HD555. 
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post #7 of 117
i have one suggestion wouldn't zacate be better for this then the i3?
The Crushinator
(15 items)
 
  
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2500K Asus P8P67 Pro MSI Twin Frozer 465 1GB Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Crucial m4 64GB WD Caviar Blue 320GB Lite-On DVD Multi Recorder Corsair H80 
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Logitech G400 Soft 
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The Crushinator
(15 items)
 
  
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2500K Asus P8P67 Pro MSI Twin Frozer 465 1GB Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600mhz 
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Crucial m4 64GB WD Caviar Blue 320GB Lite-On DVD Multi Recorder Corsair H80 
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post #8 of 117
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iJustin;13209512 
Wouldn't it be bad for the computer especially the HDD when in a truck? All those little bumps would affect it.

The computer should be fairly intrinsically safe with an ssd. The storage drive won't be, but I'm willing to lose data on that drive as it is for media that is backed up else where. Plus 3tb of ssd's or laptop hd's would be expensive. I might buy an external hdd controller to keep the storage disc off when not playing media.

Music will be on the ssd.

Good thought!
Quote:
Originally Posted by labbu63;13209761 
i have one suggestion wouldn't zacate be better for this then the i3?

I'm open to amd but why would it be better then i3?
post #9 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwesth;13211796 
The computer should be fairly intrinsically safe with an ssd. The storage drive won't be, but I'm willing to lose data on that drive as it is for media that is backed up else where. Plus 3tb of ssd's or laptop hd's would be expensive. I might buy an external hdd controller to keep the storage disc off when not playing media.

Music will be on the ssd.

Good thought!



I'm open to amd but why would it be better then i3?

zacate has much lower power consumption which is important if you're running off car battery. it also seems to fit your needs just fine.
Current PC
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 @ ~3.6 EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 X58 3-Way SLI BFG GTX 285 OC Mushkin 6GB 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Intel 120GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 1.5 Windows 7 Corsair 750 HAF 932 
  hide details  
Reply
Current PC
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 @ ~3.6 EVGA 132-BL-E758-A1 X58 3-Way SLI BFG GTX 285 OC Mushkin 6GB 
Hard DriveOSPowerCase
Intel 120GB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 1.5 Windows 7 Corsair 750 HAF 932 
  hide details  
Reply
post #10 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by kujon;13213282 
zacate has much lower power consumption which is important if you're running off car battery. it also seems to fit your needs just fine.

The i3-2100T is only 35W TDP and it's much faster.

I just priced this rig up as I am thinking about putting a carputer in my stang, after I am done with the one in the RX-7.

vsdv.png

It's roughly a 70W rig at max load (if that) and could easily be powered by a psu such as the Pico M3.

That puts the rig at $600 for one extremely bad-ass carputer. Add in another $300-400 for the monitor and you are sitting at about $1000 for a carputer system that can play most games you would want to play on such a small monitor (10" or so). Get a 3G dongle and boom, you have instant bad-ass carputer with internet while on the road baby.
 
Project Al
(69 photos)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700k Gigabyte UD4 MSI 580GTX Lightning Xtreme Edition 3GB 2x4GB G.Skill @ 1600mhz CL6 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ Vertex II SSD OCZ Vertex II SSD LG Blu-Ray/HD-DVD Combo Drive Win 7 Ult 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Achieva Shimian Acer G235H XArmor U9BL Corsair HX1000W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Define R3 Silver Arrow Razer Naga Ultimate Razer Goliathus Speed Edition Polk Audio RTi-A1 
AudioAudio
Dayton Audio DTA-100a Asus Xonar STX 
  hide details  
Reply
 
Project Al
(69 photos)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2700k Gigabyte UD4 MSI 580GTX Lightning Xtreme Edition 3GB 2x4GB G.Skill @ 1600mhz CL6 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
OCZ Vertex II SSD OCZ Vertex II SSD LG Blu-Ray/HD-DVD Combo Drive Win 7 Ult 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Achieva Shimian Acer G235H XArmor U9BL Corsair HX1000W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Define R3 Silver Arrow Razer Naga Ultimate Razer Goliathus Speed Edition Polk Audio RTi-A1 
AudioAudio
Dayton Audio DTA-100a Asus Xonar STX 
  hide details  
Reply
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