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post #11 of 107
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kujon View Post
zacate has much lower power consumption which is important if you're running off car battery. it also seems to fit your needs just fine.
Well I've been looking at zacate for the last hour. It seems to basically be an atom with more graphics processing power.

At slightly increased power consumption (~ 5-10W) the i3 I linked in the OP seems to have a drastic performance increase. Up to 4x according to this review:: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu..._12.html#sect0

While processor performance is not a huge piece of what I need, I will be running a media library of over 2k titles (tv and movie) in XBMC. With atom processors that can lead to 30sec to 1min delay going from the menu screen to the titles list.

It looks like the sandy bridge processor offers better performance/W then zacate.

Thanks for the thoughts, it does look like a great cost effective alternative for some people.
post #12 of 107
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrimpykins View Post
The i3-2100T is only 35W TDP and it's much faster.

I just priced this rig up as I am thinking about putting a carputer in my stang, after I am done with the one in the RX-7.

It's roughly a 70W rig at max load (if that) and could easily be powered by a psu such as the Pico M3.

That puts the rig at $600 for one extremely bad-ass carputer. Add in another $300-400 for the monitor and you are sitting at about $1000 for a carputer system that can play most games you would want to play on such a small monitor (10" or so). Get a 3G dongle and boom, you have instant bad-ass carputer with internet while on the road baby.
I mirror your sentiments.
Save the monitor. After prior experience with laptops and seeing transflective screen demos I am going to splurge for the $400 transflective premium. So, we are looking at roughly $600 computer and $650-$1000 screen for a $1,600 budget before any hu/amp/sub/fabrication.

Still not a bad shake for a very capable build.
post #13 of 107
I'd probably replace the stock head unit, seeing as with a couple 1/8"->RCA adapters the carputer and standalone amps are superior in every way. It's definitely worth running the door speakers from an amp if you care about sound quality and not just thump; I switched from running 2 decent quality door speakers straight off the head unit to running them off 2 channels of a 4 channel amp, with the remaining 2 going to a 10" sub. The difference is night and day, even with the sub turned off...

Is it a 2 door or 4 door truck?

Also as far as controls go, you could do something like my headlight switch mod--


The paint looks like crap because I got lazy while gluing, but you get the picture. It ended up being about $100 worth of parts from an electronics site, but looking back I could have saved some money by doing a couple things differently.
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post #14 of 107
+1
This is something I have been pondering for years.
Q. Why do you need 3TB storage for a carputer, especially if music will be on the SSD?
since your going to be running video, definitely look at compressing the file since your screen will probably not be running 1080p no reason to store it at that rate.

Q. What are you going to do about cooling?
I live in AZ and a car in a lot can get to 150-180f ambient pretty quickly that can be pretty harsh on a cpu and HD.

The upgraded alternator and extra battery will probably be a must on the system.

I am excited to see where you go with this, especially since you have a friend who does fab work, that can make the system look real sexy.

another Q. Which chevy 1500 do you have? extended cab, quad cab, 4x2, 4x4...?
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Mako
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post #15 of 107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Traches View Post
I'd probably replace the stock head unit, seeing as with a couple 1/8"->RCA adapters the carputer and standalone amps are superior in every way. It's definitely worth running the door speakers from an amp if you care about sound quality and not just thump; I switched from running 2 decent quality door speakers straight off the head unit to running them off 2 channels of a 4 channel amp, with the remaining 2 going to a 10" sub. The difference is night and day, even with the sub turned off...

Is it a 2 door or 4 door truck?

Also as far as controls go, you could do something like my headlight switch mod--

*Snip*

The paint looks like crap because I got lazy while gluing, but you get the picture. It ended up being about $100 worth of parts from an electronics site, but looking back I could have saved some money by doing a couple things differently.
Good idea getting the speakers off the head unit, most head amps are terrible->utter crap. 50watts/channel of poop.
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Mako
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post #16 of 107
I was going to suggest a Atom setup myself. But it looks like that has been discussed already. GLWB(good luck with build)
Red Steel
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Red Steel
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post #17 of 107
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Traches View Post
Also as far as controls go, you could do something like my headlight switch mod--

The paint looks like crap because I got lazy while gluing, but you get the picture. It ended up being about $100 worth of parts from an electronics site, but looking back I could have saved some money by doing a couple things differently.
I think I am going to do something similar to that control panel. Probably will put a couple usb ports, power btn, and possible trackball (though I may side against this due to vibration concerns).

For sound... I'm going to try and spend as little as possible to clean up the sound in the truck. It's really not that bad right now--2 door speakers and 2 tweeters--but could use some base. I may just take the cherry bombs off and that could do the trick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fooliobass View Post
+1
This is something I have been pondering for years.
Q. Why do you need 3TB storage for a carputer, especially if music will be on the SSD?
since your going to be running video, definitely look at compressing the file since your screen will probably not be running 1080p no reason to store it at that rate.

Q. What are you going to do about cooling?
I live in AZ and a car in a lot can get to 150-180f ambient pretty quickly that can be pretty harsh on a cpu and HD.

The upgraded alternator and extra battery will probably be a must on the system.

I am excited to see where you go with this, especially since you have a friend who does fab work, that can make the system look real sexy.

another Q. Which chevy 1500 do you have? extended cab, quad cab, 4x2, 4x4...?
3tb for video media. Over 2,000 titles ~ 2.2TB.

Cooling is a good point. Honestly I'm not sure beyond, don't start the computer until ambient in the truck reaches ~ 70F. I may send a small vent off an air duct to the pc... but 2 concerns with that. 1. I will need a way to close the vent when I turn heat on. 2. Condensation.

Any suggestions on cooling would be great!

And I'll update the OP with the truck info.
It's an 07 chevy 1500 etx cab 4x4 (I live in Alaska right now )
Edited by mrwesth - 4/21/11 at 11:20pm
post #18 of 107
What about going water cooled for the carputer? I don't know how well those parts survive through vibration though. Maybe store the components somewhere other than the dash? maybe middle front seat? or a box under the back seat?

Alaska wont have as bad of ambient as I have down here, but still could be above desirable.

Have you looked into shock mounts for the HDs?
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Mako
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post #19 of 107
I don't think you need to worry about the heat, just make sure you have some fans circulating air through whatever you house the components in.

You don't need to worry about vibration either since you will be using a SSD, the HDD may suffer, but as you said you aren't worried about that.

I would setup a control panel, use a simple toggle switch to act as a false ignition that way you can control the power to the pc separate from the car if needed.

You simply wire the +12v from the battery to one end and the ignition wire from the PSU to the other, when you flip the switch, it thinks the ignition has been turned on and therefore turns on the PSU.
 
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post #20 of 107
You'll need a system to go from 12v to 120v.
Mako
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Mako
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