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post #17211 of 21279
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteWulfe View Post

Regular coolant has a bad habit of freezing around 0C as it's primarily water, so if you're using a chiller, cold box or the power of chilly winter (or spring/fall in a number of places) air you're going to have a bad time with things freezing. There still are plenty of applications where such coolants are rather useful, and pretty much necessary for long periods of time or even 24/7 usage, especially if you have to do maintenance on the system.

For regular applications where the tower is on, under, or beside your desk, lan gaming or even most 24/7 applications where your rig won't see anything even remotely near the freezing point of water I can't see why you would use a coolant that doesn't perform well in the temperature ranges we run at, especially with all the extra precautions you need to take with antifreeze.

This is only true if you let it sit still for over 30 mins or so for it to form a blockage, once the coolant is moving that changes the entire issue it will also be absorbing heat from components.
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post #17212 of 21279
Nitpicking over a minor decrease in coolant effectiveness isn't that useful. The few percentages of thermal penalty of a 10-20% glycol solution is easily counteracted by a slightly higher flow rate. Only when you get to higher concentrations does it matter.

What is important is to keep the loop pH above 7, because acidic environments accelerate corrosion of mixed metal loops. Distilled water, biocide (silver or not), and lucky chemistry doesn't work for everyone.
post #17213 of 21279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exilon View Post

Nitpicking over a minor decrease in coolant effectiveness isn't that useful. The few percentages of thermal penalty of a 10-20% glycol solution is easily counteracted by a slightly higher flow rate. Only when you get to higher concentrations does it matter.

What is important is to keep the loop pH above 7, because acidic environments accelerate corrosion of mixed metal loops. Distilled water, biocide (silver or not), and lucky chemistry doesn't work for everyone.

Agreed. But at the same time you're just asking for trouble adding stuff you don't need. You need 15-20% antifreeze to water for it to be effective up to -10c at which point you're running the loop and dumping masses of heat into it while benching and overclocking. If you're going to go nuts condensation is going to be more of a risk than your coolant freezing at that point while not knowing what it's doing to the loop.
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post #17214 of 21279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exilon View Post


What is important is to keep the loop pH above 7, because acidic environments accelerate corrosion of mixed metal loops. Distilled water, biocide (silver or not), and lucky chemistry doesn't work for everyone.

Does it exist? a sensor to monitor the pH balance in the water?
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post #17215 of 21279
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

Does it exist? a sensor to monitor the pH balance in the water?



Or

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post #17216 of 21279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Agreed. But at the same time you're just asking for trouble adding stuff you don't need. You need 15-20% antifreeze to water for it to be effective up to -10c at which point you're running the loop and dumping masses of heat into it while benching and overclocking. If you're going to go nuts condensation is going to be more of a risk than your coolant freezing at that point while not knowing what it's doing to the loop.

No disagreement there. I'm not a fan of running diluted anti-freeze as they're usually formulated to run 50/50. Running at 10-20% with those formulations means pH buffers and inhibitors are too diluted to function properly, and the user is just asking for trouble.
post #17217 of 21279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exilon View Post

No disagreement there. I'm not a fan of running diluted anti-freeze as they're usually formulated to run 50/50. Running at 10-20% with those formulations means pH buffers and inhibitors are too diluted to function properly, and the user is just asking for trouble.

Totally agree again.
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post #17218 of 21279
So do you guys have any experience or proof to back this up, or are you just theorizing what has worked for 10+ years no longer works?rolleyes.gif
post #17219 of 21279
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post

So do you guys have any experience or proof to back this up, or are you just theorizing what has worked for 10+ years no longer works?rolleyes.gif

I mean does my experience with motorcycle and car engines count? Or is that all redundant because it isn't a car engine we are talking about?

SOURCE: Ex-motorcycle mechanic and trained at college for motor vehicle repair.
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post #17220 of 21279
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post

So do you guys have any experience or proof to back this up, or are you just theorizing what has worked for 10+ years no longer works?rolleyes.gif

No one said it didn't work, it's just why run coolant meant for a completely different application rather than what's made specifically for water cooling PCs. That's all I'm saying, grenades and all, lol.
 
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