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EK Club - Page 1786

post #17851 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by scgt1 View Post

Was working on the loop this afternoon. Pretty much have all fittings placed (wish I had ordered a few more 90* swivels or actual 90* compression fittings. I have so many 45* compression's left over now lol)

I'm trying to figure out what to do with my silver kill coil. If I insert it in a tube it will restrict flow some. If I drop it in the EK Res with the anti cyclone acrylic EK thing in the res the coil can drop right down inside the intake and get stuck in what looks like is part of the impellar. Which obviously wouldn't be good. I was thinking to wrap it around the anti cyclone between the EK letters in the acrylic piece. That way it can't fall in the intake.

Any ideas anyone?

Step 1: Remove kill coil from packaging

Step 2: Enter kitchen

Step 3: Remove lid from garbage disposal bin

Step 4: Insert kill coil in bin

Step 5: Close lid

Step 6: Ensure to remove bag on fridays for sanitation patrol to pick up

Step 7: Use either appropriate drop count of biocide, a mix of 10-20% anti-corrosive/anti-microbial (glycol, water wetter etc..) + 80% DI water, or your preferred brand of premix (Mayhem's, EC etc..) instead

Step 8: Assume Joyous facial expression and thankful demeanor in approximately 12 months when your loop does not have metallic flakes shredding through everything in sight.
Edited by DarkIdeals - 10/14/16 at 9:09pm
 
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post #17852 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by scgt1 View Post


I'm trying to figure out what to do with my silver kill coil. If I insert it in a tube it will restrict flow some. If I drop it in the EK Res with the anti cyclone acrylic EK thing in the res the coil can drop right down inside the intake and get stuck in what looks like is part of the impellar. Which obviously wouldn't be good. I was thinking to wrap it around the anti cyclone between the EK letters in the acrylic piece. That way it can't fall in the intake.

Any ideas anyone?

Keep your silver coil in the drawer and use distilled water plus PT-Nuke, or better yet, use Mayhems coolant, which contains biocide and corrosion inhibitors. The coil is a mediocre biocide at best and can cause problems in the corrosion dept.
Edited by jvillaveces - 10/14/16 at 9:08pm
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post #17853 of 21157
Hey guys.

Just finished my first loop, and just remembered that I didn't change the jet plate in my Supremecy EVO. I just left the default plate inside that came pre-installed, which says "all round great performer" in the manual, however in the table it says it's optimised for LGA 2011, and I'm on 1150. I didn't change it because the instructions had "optional", but I now realise I probably should have.

The loop is running and everything but I don't know if it's worth draining + disassembly + reassembly + refilling. Would take quite a while.

Should I bother? How many degrees are we talking here?
post #17854 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7he5tig View Post

Hey guys.

Just finished my first loop, and just remembered that I didn't change the jet plate in my Supremecy EVO. I just left the default plate inside that came pre-installed, which says "all round great performer" in the manual, however in the table it says it's optimised for LGA 2011, and I'm on 1150. I didn't change it because the instructions had "optional", but I now realise I probably should have.

The loop is running and everything but I don't know if it's worth draining + disassembly + reassembly + refilling. Would take quite a while.

Should I bother? How many degrees are we talking here?

You're looking at 0.5 to 1 degree celsius or so, if that really. Most i've seen a jet plate EVER matter is maybe 1.5C and that was back in the Supreme LF days.

Don't worry about it, it'll be fine. I'd worry much more about things like inlet/outlet ports etc.. than something like this.
 
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post #17855 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

Any idea what would cause the 360mm PE radiator in my LC 2.0 kit to leak at all four corners? I have a PE 480 radiator that I added and it doesn't leak at all.
Good news. Apparently the radiator doesn't have leaks. Water was running into the shroud and out of the corners when I was rinsing it out. It really seemed like all the corners were leaking but it was a false alarm. Yay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post

Keep your silver coil in the drawer and use distilled water plus PT-Nuke, or better yet, use Mayhems coolant, which contains biocide and corrosion inhibitors. The coil is a mediocre biocide at best and can cause problems in the corrosion dept.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EK 
Always use market proven pre-mix coolant, such as EK-Ekoolant. This propylene glycol based coolant contains all the necessary biological inhibitors, acts as a surfactant and also offers lubricating properties which enhance the lifespan of the water pump. Besides this, it also offers corrosion protection when used in a mixed-metal liquid cooling loop.

Refrain from using strips of Silver (Ag), also known as “Kill Coil”, with distilled water alone in your water cooling loop. Besides introducing another metal into the already mixed-metal loop with no corrosion protection, the concentration of Silver ions may not be enough to prevent or to suppress biological growth in the liquid cooling loop.

Refrain from using Copper (II) Sulphate (CuSO4) additive – common trade name “Nuke Cu” or “Biocide Cu” – due to its tendency to react with metals usually found in the liquid cooling loop, especially radiators (Zn, Cu, Sn) as well as Aluminum (Al) thus promoting corrosion. Using CuSO4 also accelerates visually discouraging copper tarnishing phenomena.
The article should be updated since the EK coolants are ethylene glycol (EVO) or glycerol (Pastel) — not propylene glycol.

Notice how it says no Nuke.

Kill coils are bad because of nickle. If there's no nickle they're OK. .50 galvanic potential with nickle isn't good. One article I read also said free chlorine ions are needed to make silver ions work well as a biocide. That doesn't sound like a great thing for our purposes.
Edited by superstition222 - 10/15/16 at 3:48am
post #17856 of 21157
Just a quick reminder for those that missed it several pages back.

Avoid using Silver, if you have Copper, Brass, Nickel in your loop

the Silver will react and break down the Nickel layers,
very much the same issue if you mix Aluminum with the above.
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post #17857 of 21157
What happened to the paint on that chassis? I'd put everything appart, clean in up and re-paint it imo.
Other than that, look nice. You need a white Galax graphic card and a white supperflower PSU! biggrin.gif
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post #17858 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimir View Post

What happened to the paint on that chassis? I'd put everything appart, clean in up and re-paint it imo.
Other than that, look nice. You need a white Galax graphic card and a white supperflower PSU! biggrin.gif

My kids wanted to help, and painting was the least damage they could do. Seasonic has a nice white PSU. I am gonna just order a new white case,
post #17859 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

Just a quick reminder for those that missed it several pages back.

Avoid using Silver, if you have Copper, Brass, Nickel in your loop

the Silver will react and break down the Nickel layers,
very much the same issue if you mix Aluminum with the above.

How would you know if you have silver or aluminum?
post #17860 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidm71 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

Just a quick reminder for those that missed it several pages back.

Avoid using Silver, if you have Copper, Brass, Nickel in your loop

the Silver will react and break down the Nickel layers,
very much the same issue if you mix Aluminum with the above.

How would you know if you have silver or aluminum?

Silver is not a typical block material. You would specifically be putting a silver coil in your res, so you would know if you had it in there. Aluminum is usually only used on low quality radiators and blocks, but it is silver in color. Check your manufacturers specs if you have any doubt.

Most, if not all of what EK sells will be copper or nickel plated copper.
Blue540
(14 items)
 
x99
(18 items)
 
B.M.O.
(10 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
6800k ASUS X99-A EVGA 980 FTW ACX 2.0 EVGA 980 FTW ACX2.0 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Corsair Vengeance CMK32GX4M4B3200C16W Crucial MX100 WD Blue 1TB EK Supremacy EVO 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
EK 480 PE EK 240 PE EK D5 Vario Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung 49KU7500 (curved 4k) Corsair K65 NZXT Hale 90 V2 1000W Thermaltake X9 
MouseMouse Pad
Logitch G100S X-Trac Ripper 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
6400k msi A75MA-P33 Sapphire 6670 passive hynix 2 GB dual channel 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
WD  windows 8.1 e-machine wireless 
PowerCase
king win 600w custom built 
  hide details  
Reply
Blue540
(14 items)
 
x99
(18 items)
 
B.M.O.
(10 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
6800k ASUS X99-A EVGA 980 FTW ACX 2.0 EVGA 980 FTW ACX2.0 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Corsair Vengeance CMK32GX4M4B3200C16W Crucial MX100 WD Blue 1TB EK Supremacy EVO 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
EK 480 PE EK 240 PE EK D5 Vario Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung 49KU7500 (curved 4k) Corsair K65 NZXT Hale 90 V2 1000W Thermaltake X9 
MouseMouse Pad
Logitch G100S X-Trac Ripper 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
6400k msi A75MA-P33 Sapphire 6670 passive hynix 2 GB dual channel 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
WD  windows 8.1 e-machine wireless 
PowerCase
king win 600w custom built 
  hide details  
Reply
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