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post #18281 of 21268
Just added some EK pastel red to the loop.

post #18282 of 21268
I ordered 8 fittings from EK and all of them have damaged threads. I emailed EK customer service and received the following message:


Thank you for contacting us.
We are sorry for the problem you described.

Actually this is ok, it does not affect screwing. But I can send you the black ones, and I will select the less ''damaged''.


EK sent me 8 more under an RMA and all 8 still have damaged threads.

-Kind of pissed they are passing along supplier quality issues to end customers. Clearly, the old Yugo factories need to update their tooling.
-I don't feel confident in the performance of the threads when there are only 2-3 threads holding the fitting to the block/pump/rad
-At this point my only option is to send the old ones back under the RMA, but they did not include a return shipping label, so I have to pay to ship from California to Slovenia.


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post #18283 of 21268
Contact the vendor and have them swapped out. Years ago I got some 1/2"×3/4" EK fittings in Black and used a light to check them out. The interior of the fittings showed brass in spots. I probably could've still used them but I contacted Performance-PCs and let the know of the issue and got me all swapped out without any quibbling over the issue. I suspect that your vendor will do the same. mellowsmiley.gif

At least it's a way to save on shipping. If you used PayPal, your return shipping should be free as part of their buyer protection plan. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
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post #18284 of 21268
Quote:
Originally Posted by akira749 View Post

I've used X1 in the past without any issues. And I always used nickel blocks.
I've used 15+ GPU blocks and 8+ CPU blocks in the last 4-5 years and they were all Nickel finished.
I never had any nickel flaking on any of them. Some had some discoloration but that's it. rolleyes.gif

I'll take your word for it smile.gif after all I do recall reading X1 was safe from bunch of us that frequent here often.
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post #18285 of 21268
Quote:
Originally Posted by wizardbro View Post

Brand new loop, visible nickel flaking on the gpu block from the 2nd day onwards. Pics are from the loop running 1 week.
Cleaned rads with 20+ flushes with distilled water. First two flushes were 1/3 vinegar+2/3 water and the rest were with just distilled water.
Didn't open the blocks to do any pre-cleaning on them. All brand new stuff and using mayhems x1 100ml concentrate that was mixed properly with distilled water.
Using ek pe 360 rads, ek evo cpu nickel, ek titan x nickel, ek d5 and bitspower fittings, all brand new stuff.

GPU block with flash:


GPU block w/o flash:

GPU block w/o flash and the areas marked:


EK customer support said it's because of mayhems x1, but why would it only affect the gpu block?
I can't have my computer down for weeks RMA'ing this block to the next continent over. Should I switch to something not mayhems x1 like a pastel coolant to get it to stop flaking more and hide it?

You got some severe electrolysis going on there. It's not the coolant, you need to try to isolate your loop from both gpu and cpu with a total coverage of ek's ekotherm, check by sticking a voltmeter into fill port on res and checking both ground and millivolts. You also need to make sure the power going to your power supply is very, very clean. Use a UPS with pure sine wave. Voltage is leaking BIG TIME somewhere. No need to get new parts until you get that figured out. It takes a lot of current to do that in one week. I fully expect suppliers like EK to begin implementing design and build methods meant to TOTALLY isolate the whole loop from electrolysis. Also, rubber case feet can help also.. Maybe EK can chime in on this and how we can better isolate our loops from stray voltage. I know high overclocks can contribute to this also.
post #18286 of 21268
Quote:
Originally Posted by 19DELTASNAFU View Post

You got some severe electrolysis going on there. It's not the coolant, you need to try to isolate your loop from both gpu and cpu with a total coverage of ek's ekotherm, check by sticking a voltmeter into fill port on res and checking both ground and millivolts. You also need to make sure the power going to your power supply is very, very clean. Use a UPS with pure sine wave. Voltage is leaking BIG TIME somewhere. No need to get new parts until you get that figured out. It takes a lot of current to do that in one week. I fully expect suppliers like EK to begin implementing design and build methods meant to TOTALLY isolate the whole loop from electrolysis. Also, rubber case feet can help also.. Maybe EK can chime in on this and how we can better isolate our loops from stray voltage. I know high overclocks can contribute to this also.

Would what you described create a smell if it is occurring? I am getting a pretty intense ozone smell from my chassis exhaust ports. I originally suspected the solvent under the paint on my radiators but perhaps something is arcing or what you described etc.

smells like electricity.... if that makes sense with a slight tinge of chemicals.
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post #18287 of 21268
Yes, that's SEVERE electrolysis. I can't tell you what, in your system, what is causing it. With the voltmeter your case is ground and on the other lead you need the attachment like the pointed voltmeters have and just touch the coolant through the top of the res. With that kind of delaminating going on I'd have to think the voltage would be pretty high. I will look at your build thread carefully, can you update it with every picture you took, just not replicas so i can see as many details as I can. You will need to use the ecotherm on the cpu also when you reassemble. But I would not reassemble with new parts until I found the problem and you definitely have a problem going on there. I would even check voltage and ground of the case itself. I would clean, reassemble, and run the loop with only cpu and watch it for a few days and do some research and if that is all clear add in the gpu. Google Andees custom watercooling pics and contact those owners and see if there were any problems like you're having. The "white" air bubbles during the fill tells me that there was some other chemical in the loop. XT1 Clear never has done that with me. Did you test the PH? Did you use concentrate or premix? You STILL have a major voltage leak but this could be exacerbated by incorrect ph of the coolant. Research and research. What exactly did you drill on the GPU?? I read something in the build log that you had to do some drilling?? That could be the problem??? Check and double check for ground faults, drop the overclocks, study up on electrolysis and voltage leak with high overclocks etc, etc. You need to go ahead and get the pointer end adapter for your voltmeter,, ph strips etc. Get XT1 clear concentrate. Check PH of water before adding to XT1 and before adding to system etc. Step by step and baby steps and make absolutely sure everything is perfect. You might want to totally isolate that backplate from the GPU with thermal pads. That could be the problem right there.
post #18288 of 21268
Has anyone here recently bought and installed a monoblock for the Rampage V Edition 10? I specifically have the RGB block, and, I think I might have messed up my board being confused about step #3 on the installation manual. It says to punch out a "sticker" in the screw holes on the CPU socket's screw-in portion. Which I did, as it stated, gently. I'm wondering if I had this step confused or didn't grasp what the manual was saying properly.
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post #18289 of 21268
I did it on asus monoblok. Its all fine, it is some layer of plastic bag like material, you punch it through so the pillars of cpu portion can pass through to the other side.

Scroll to 5:10.
https://youtu.be/ecXNn80PRog
Edited by Kutalion - 12/19/16 at 12:31am
post #18290 of 21268
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbmowner View Post

Hey everyone, I am looking for a clear full cover block for my 2 Evga GTX 1070 FTW cards. Can someone point me in the right direction? I don't see anything in the compatibility list that shows FTW edition cards =( and I have no idea if the PCB's are set the same on the different editions of the cards. Thanks!

Here's what you need : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/catalogsearch/result/?q=EK-FC+1080+FTW
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