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EK Club - Page 1879

post #18781 of 20073
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej511 View Post

Is ek supplying am4 backplates and mounting plates for free or whats going on with that? Not really looking to spend 15$ considering everyone else is providing it for free, it not ill cool it with my nh-u14s again and have noctua ship me the mounting hardware and keep my custom loop for my gpu only (with a 360 and 240mm rad i should get some seriously nice gpu temps.

@akira749 Any ideas on free mounting hardware for am4 purchasers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrejEKWB View Post

Supremacy EVO in kits comes with AM4 bracket and it is compatible! If you get older revision kit, than just shoot us a message through our support and we'll send you the bracket free of charge.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1621438/ek-kit-x360-compatibility-with-ryzen-am4-motherboards
post #3 thumb.gif

This is for the CPU block in kits, but i guess regular purchased ones are also eligible
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post #18782 of 20073
Quote:
Originally Posted by BURGER4life View Post


http://www.overclock.net/t/1621438/ek-kit-x360-compatibility-with-ryzen-am4-motherboards
post #3 thumb.gif

This is for the CPU block in kits, but i guess regular purchased ones are also eligible

Yea would be nice to know. Someone on reddit did get one for free (they had to pay shipping which isn't a big deal for me im only about 900km away from EKWB) but another user couldn't even get a kit. I do believe it comes out to around 10-12€ or so for the bracket and backplate.

Im more then likely going to ryzen next, glad to know my w10 license will work on it even upgrading my mobo/cpu combo so it won't be a full build for me.
    
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post #18783 of 20073
The block for the Hero Viii was great! Check my Red Roggy build for pics
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post #18784 of 20073
Quote:
Originally Posted by stocksux View Post

The block for the Hero Viii was great! Check my Red Roggy build for pics
This may be a stupid question but, I have an EK DDC 3.2. It has a PWM header and a 4-Pin MOLEX plug. I noticed it never really changes speed much more than ~+/- 30 RPM's. Which I view is just "tolerance" or what have you. Should I be using just one of these plugs?
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post #18785 of 20073
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazexa View Post

This may be a stupid question but, I have an EK DDC 3.2. It has a PWM header and a 4-Pin MOLEX plug. I noticed it never really changes speed much more than ~+/- 30 RPM's. Which I view is just "tolerance" or what have you. Should I be using just one of these plugs?
The rpm won't change unless your temps start to climb significantly. Then the pwm would crank up the pump. If your temps are steady then it won't change much. The molex connector is to actually power the pump
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post #18786 of 20073
Gota give props im in love with these 120er white vardars my old cm fans at 40% fan speed using soundmeter on my phone was around 50-60dB, I am running 3 Phanteks PH-F140MP and have 3 Noctua NF-A14 FLX on ek 420 rad then 8 120er vardars on my 360 and 240 rad with 1 cm masterfan air balance as a exhaust using my phone like befor my db output now is between 19-30db at idle fans dont ramp up till cpu hits 65c
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post #18787 of 20073
How in the world do people get there pump/res combos with the multi port top to all line up?????? I can't for the life of me get things to line up so all ports are facing the same way! HELP!!!
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post #18788 of 20073
Here's a pic of what I'm talking about

As you can see, that when everything is tightened down the fittings on the top are almost 180 degrees different than the in/out ports. Any advice on a way to line these up and not leak would be appreciated. Thanks.
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post #18789 of 20073
It's all about the tread..and there's where your tread ends.
The only way to "bypass" it ..is to use a spacer...
Preferable a rubber one so you can adjust exactly where the in/out etc stops.
Check your local DIY store and see if they have anything like that.
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post #18790 of 20073
Quote:
Originally Posted by stocksux View Post

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about

As you can see, that when everything is tightened down the fittings on the top are almost 180 degrees different than the in/out ports. Any advice on a way to line these up and not leak would be appreciated. Thanks.

Flipping the ends can make a difference. Moving the top piece to the bottom and vice versa. Or in your case just flipping the tube.

You should be able to get at least 90 degrees of adjustment on each while still being air tight and using a thicker or thinner oring makes a difference.
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