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post #19451 of 19741
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0451 View Post

I'd suggest 2 pumps so you can run them at 60% and have a quieter setup.
Sorry it is not clear on the diagram, but this will be the case : dual Aquacomputer D5, + EKWB Revo dual top

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

What an immense amount of rad area... I love it biggrin.gif

Have you considered running the top rad with the outlets towards the front of the case? That way you can do less fittings and runs directly above the mobo and move some of it towards a more unused area of the case. I'm also unsure about the Y fitting for a drain, but I'm sure you have a plan with that.

I absolutely want silence, so oversized rad area should allow to keep a decent delta T° without fans sounding like a helicopter

For the top rad, this was one of my questions. I will have the Aquaero 6 in that area, so I'll have to figure out which is the less crowded.

For the Y drain, don't assume anything, this is my first loop, this may be entirely wrong biggrin.gif What is your concern ? Having never emptied a loop, I have no idea if this would work biggrin.gif
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post #19452 of 19741
EK Supremacy EVO CPU block, TitanXp Full Cover w/backplate, D5 pump, 110mm Res.



I modified the res to have a riser tube that intersects the back port, the only way I could figure how to fill, vent, and drain the loop. There's a plugged ball valve in the back of the case, that's where I filled from.


Edited by GnarlyCharlie - 4/30/17 at 9:12am
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post #19453 of 19741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

Sorry it is not clear on the diagram, but this will be the case : dual Aquacomputer D5, + EKWB Revo dual top
I absolutely want silence, so oversized rad area should allow to keep a decent delta T° without fans sounding like a helicopter

For the top rad, this was one of my questions. I will have the Aquaero 6 in that area, so I'll have to figure out which is the less crowded.

For the Y drain, don't assume anything, this is my first loop, this may be entirely wrong biggrin.gif What is your concern ? Having never emptied a loop, I have no idea if this would work biggrin.gif

I would have preferred having a multiport radiator in the bottom and just run a drain from that, but the concern with a Y fitting is that it's not going to drain that easily (a T fitting would be a better choice for that). Since you only have 2 openings on the rad though, then I would split up one of the ports there and add a ball valve. It should make draining fairly easily if you lay your case on the side with that opened up. I could do a couple of quick sketches for you if you are confused as to what I mean.
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post #19454 of 19741
Quote:
Originally Posted by jestereightfour View Post

Never had to smack mine and I've run the foam piece and the ek stand at the same time. That's probably not a good sign...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNMadman View Post

The pump should start up regardless of the anti-cyclone type you're using. It might be a tiny bit harder to suck water through that type, but it wouldn't be enough to stop it from working. I suggest you start shopping for a new pump.

Here's the thing. I've ran the pump in four loops and it's been fine on and off.

The first loop has used a pump top without a reservoir, and it ran fine. The second loop used the foam pad for a little while, and eventually I needed to smack it to get it running.

The third loop used a plastic anti-cyclone piece, and it would always run fine.

The fourth and newest loop is using the anti-cyclone piece again, and now it needs a good smack to get running every time the system powers on.
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post #19455 of 19741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

Sorry it is not clear on the diagram, but this will be the case : dual Aquacomputer D5, + EKWB Revo dual top
I absolutely want silence, so oversized rad area should allow to keep a decent delta T° without fans sounding like a helicopter

For the top rad, this was one of my questions. I will have the Aquaero 6 in that area, so I'll have to figure out which is the less crowded.

For the Y drain, don't assume anything, this is my first loop, this may be entirely wrong biggrin.gif What is your concern ? Having never emptied a loop, I have no idea if this would work biggrin.gif

It's clear, I jused missed it. Are you going with hard or soft tubing?
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post #19456 of 19741
Quote:
Originally Posted by GnarlyCharlie View Post

EK Supremacy EVO CPU block, TitanXp Full Cover w/backplate, D5 pump, 110mm Res.



I modified the res to have a riser tube that intersects the back port, the only way I could figure how to fill, vent, and drain the loop. There's a plugged ball valve in the back of the case, that's where I filled from.

very neat build, considering the space !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

I would have preferred having a multiport radiator in the bottom and just run a drain from that, but the concern with a Y fitting is that it's not going to drain that easily (a T fitting would be a better choice for that). Since you only have 2 openings on the rad though, then I would split up one of the ports there and add a ball valve. It should make draining fairly easily if you lay your case on the side with that opened up. I could do a couple of quick sketches for you if you are confused as to what I mean.

no I guess I see : you advocate for a T split, plugged straight to one of the ports of the 560 rad, preferrably the bottom one (the rad will be on the side of the case, in the lower chamber.

Anyway I realized I missed an air intake port, which need to be on the top side, in order to let air in (from what I've read, some people blow inside to make water go away quicker, or use canned air or a compressor / blower)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0451 View Post

It's clear, I jused missed it. Are you going with hard or soft tubing?
soft...first loop, I went for ease.
I am still on the fence between clear tubbing or Black rubber (ZMT) : I heard nasty things about fittings not fitting tight enough on ZMT.
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post #19457 of 19741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

very neat build, considering the space !
no I guess I see : you advocate for a T split, plugged straight to one of the ports of the 560 rad, preferrably the bottom one (the rad will be on the side of the case, in the lower chamber.

Anyway I realized I missed an air intake port, which need to be on the top side, in order to let air in (from what I've read, some people blow inside to make water go away quicker, or use canned air or a compressor / blower)
soft...first loop, I went for ease.
I am still on the fence between clear tubbing or Black rubber (ZMT) : I heard nasty things about fittings not fitting tight enough on ZMT.

It's not a necessity to have an air intake in your loop, but just opening it (you don't nee to blow in it) will help quite a bit with filling and draining your loop. I don't see how you could add one to yours using those specific radiators though, so I would personally change the top rad for something like an Alphacool nexxxos 480 instead simply due to there being more ports to help you with bleeding the loop. Performance wise they are all so close that it real does not matter, but I understand it if you prefer HWLabs radiators as they are just terrific.

Edit: Oh, and just because I wanted to. Here's a rudementary sketch (my wacom was all out of juice) of how I would do the drain.

You would also need another male to male between the 90* and the ball valve, but I forgot to add that.
Edited by Rainmaker91 - 4/30/17 at 11:49am
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post #19458 of 19741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazexa View Post


Here's the thing. I've ran the pump in four loops and it's been fine on and off.

The first loop has used a pump top without a reservoir, and it ran fine. The second loop used the foam pad for a little while, and eventually I needed to smack it to get it running.

The third loop used a plastic anti-cyclone piece, and it would always run fine.

The fourth and newest loop is using the anti-cyclone piece again, and now it needs a good smack to get running every time the system powers on.
I don't know what to tell you. That doesn't make any sense, as the pump has no clue what kind of anti-cyclone tech you're using -- or even if you're using anything at all. There also aren't inlet sensors or anything that would tell it not to start up if there was a blockage of any kind.

Since you actually had different loops each time, perhaps it's not the anti-cyclone but something else in the loops (or outside the loops) that's causing the non-starting. Since it's PWM, have you tried different fan headers? Or even disconnecting it from the header completely (it should then default to maximum speed I think)? Maybe it's not getting a good startup signal or the minimum RPMs of the fan header are too low?
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post #19459 of 19741
Guys, who can help me with issue: I installed EK-FC1080 GTX Ti - Nickel but temps after 10 seconds of Heaven benchmark more then 70 mad.gif
I have done everything like in manual: remove old cooling system from my FE 1080ti, installed term pads and all other stuff from here https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109831915.pdf

Maybe I forgot something ? Maybe some removing membrane from water block ?
post #19460 of 19741
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

It's not a necessity to have an air intake in your loop, but just opening it (you don't nee to blow in it) will help quite a bit with filling and draining your loop. I don't see how you could add one to yours using those specific radiators though, so I would personally change the top rad for something like an Alphacool nexxxos 480 instead simply due to there being more ports to help you with bleeding the loop. Performance wise they are all so close that it real does not matter, but I understand it if you prefer HWLabs radiators as they are just terrific.

Edit: Oh, and just because I wanted to. Here's a rudementary sketch (my wacom was all out of juice) of how I would do the drain.

You would also need another male to male between the 90* and the ball valve, but I forgot to add that.

Thanks for the drawing.
In my case the rad will be on the side, but that doesn't change much to the layout, except I won't need a 90° fitting just before the valve but simply a straight one.

For the rad it's a bit late, I have the box sitting under my desk biggrin.gif (and since I had to pay 40.-CHF as tax clearance to get it in, I won't send it out biggrin.gif
It is true 2 ports is a bit cheap, I guess I'll find a way : this will require extreme case bending biggrin.gif
Jubi-PC
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Jubi-PC
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 4770K Asus R.O.G. Maximus VI Formula MSI GTX 980 Ti Kingston HyperX Black 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 Pro Noctua NH-U12P SE2 Noctua NF-A14 PWM Noctua NF-S12B ULN 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Dell U2713HM CoolerMaster NovaTouch TKL Corsair AX860i 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Carbide 540 Air Cube Logitech G502 Roccat Hiro SoundBlaster ZxR 
AudioAudio
Sennheiser HD800 Shure PG42 XLR + Shure XLR to USB 
  hide details  
Reply
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