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post #19461 of 19684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

very neat build, considering the space !
no I guess I see : you advocate for a T split, plugged straight to one of the ports of the 560 rad, preferrably the bottom one (the rad will be on the side of the case, in the lower chamber.

Anyway I realized I missed an air intake port, which need to be on the top side, in order to let air in (from what I've read, some people blow inside to make water go away quicker, or use canned air or a compressor / blower)
soft...first loop, I went for ease.
I am still on the fence between clear tubbing or Black rubber (ZMT) : I heard nasty things about fittings not fitting tight enough on ZMT.

I went with soft tubing with 2 D5 pumps and my pump inlet tubing was sucked flat, seriously restricting flow. I was able to replace the tubing with fittings to address the issue.
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post #19462 of 19684
Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?
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post #19463 of 19684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubijub View Post

Thanks for the drawing.
In my case the rad will be on the side, but that doesn't change much to the layout, except I won't need a 90° fitting just before the valve but simply a straight one.

For the rad it's a bit late, I have the box sitting under my desk biggrin.gif (and since I had to pay 40.-CHF as tax clearance to get it in, I won't send it out biggrin.gif
It is true 2 ports is a bit cheap, I guess I'll find a way : this will require extreme case bending biggrin.gif

No biggie, you can always find a way to let some air in to the loop. Perhaps a T fitting from the top rad with a separate tube fitted with a stop fitting. It won't help with any air trapped in the top rad but it will make it far easier to bleed the lower components. maybe it can even be used as a fill port. Not sure how to best do all of that though, I'm spoiled with my Nexxxos rads in that sence. I got them dirt cheap and they have made my life a lot easier considering how I have my reservoir mounted, in fact I just fill my entire loop through my top rad.
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post #19464 of 19684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neokolzia View Post

Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?

There should be covers on both sides of the pads

     
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post #19465 of 19684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neokolzia View Post

Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?

Do note that thermal pads may come with different protective film on the opposite sides. One side is more textured and comes off easily. The other side is smooth and is more difficult to peel off.

Once you're sure that you peeled the films on both sides, that's it, go for it.
post #19466 of 19684
Alright it's early May let's release that Aorus block!!! thumb.gif
lachen.gif
post #19467 of 19684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally West View Post

Which jet plate do I need to use for AM4 if I bought the compatibility kit?

I2 insert and J2 jet plate are the recommended ones for AMD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazexa View Post

Quick question for EK DDC 3.2 PWM users. I have the unit and I use it as a combo unit with a reservoir. Sometimes my pump needs a "shock" to get it started pumping. And by that, I mean a solid tap/smack on the housing. I think I've traced it down to when I'm using it with the mesh anti-cyclone instead of the EK stand that goes inside the reservoir. Does anyone have any input on the matter?

All these loops were with the same pump top or you changed it in some loops?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neokolzia View Post

Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?

Did you remove the protective film on both sides of the pad?
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post #19468 of 19684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazexa View Post

Quick question for EK DDC 3.2 PWM users. I have the unit and I use it as a combo unit with a reservoir. Sometimes my pump needs a "shock" to get it started pumping. And by that, I mean a solid tap/smack on the housing. I think I've traced it down to when I'm using it with the mesh anti-cyclone instead of the EK stand that goes inside the reservoir. Does anyone have any input on the matter?

Delayed and failed startup is a semi common phenomenon among DDC pumps. Most cases that I have heard of eventually progress to full electrical death of the pump.
post #19469 of 19684
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0451 View Post

I went with soft tubing with 2 D5 pumps and my pump inlet tubing was sucked flat, seriously restricting flow. I was able to replace the tubing with fittings to address the issue.
So I get this right : the sheer pump activity would make the tubing become flat ? What type of tube size were you using ? Did you consider a kink coil before moving to fittings ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainmaker91 View Post

No biggie, you can always find a way to let some air in to the loop. Perhaps a T fitting from the top rad with a separate tube fitted with a stop fitting. It won't help with any air trapped in the top rad but it will make it far easier to bleed the lower components. maybe it can even be used as a fill port. Not sure how to best do all of that though, I'm spoiled with my Nexxxos rads in that sence. I got them dirt cheap and they have made my life a lot easier considering how I have my reservoir mounted, in fact I just fill my entire loop through my top rad.

I need to add this to the loop. The top rad worries me a bit, i hope that by bending the case in every direction I should be able to get rid of most the air. Hopefully the res will help with bleeding too.
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post #19470 of 19684
Quote:
Originally Posted by akira749 View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by Neokolzia View Post

Doing my 1080ti block, quick question, is it odd that the thermal pads under the blue cover for memory is smooth and not sticky???? I.e only sticky on one side?

Did you remove the protective film on both sides of the pad?

Ya I did under the blue film on all pads including ones that came with backplate were non sticky under blue, clear film was the sticky side.
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