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EK Club - Page 2097

post #20961 of 21157
Found this in another forum, it was a reply from an EK rep to an inquiry about flow direction on EK full cover GPU blocks...

"thank you for contacting us.

Recommended inlet port is the left port. Using a different flow direction is also ok, it will result in a bit lower VRM temperatures and a bit higher GPU temperature (less than 1°C difference).

post #20962 of 21157
Quote:

Does it mean we can finally get a new CPU/GPU blocks design? rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gif
post #20963 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiokarai View Post

Does it mean we can finally get a new CPU/GPU blocks design? rolleyes.gifbiggrin.gif

The word is that they are fixing threadripper blocks, so yes.
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post #20964 of 21157

A bit of a general question (albeit solely EK-related). This whole OC->related cooling->parts erm, hobby, is recent for me. Been reading like crazy for months now, but i'm still at a point where i mostly know what i do not know, if you get my point ^^

This being the case, i was thinking of going the "everything from EKWB" route to play it safe, least so far as compatibility may be concerned.. spare me any potential trouble.

 

So to the question; excluding specifics (for example their current TR4 block) which do not constitute the rule so let's keep them out, is there anything, rads, pumps, combos, tubing, fans (planning for furious vardars+ push-pull) anything that you'd advise me to look elsewhere for?

I read a lot about flaking, i read a lot about current quality decrease, but i) have zero way to verify any of it, ii) often enough the style and tone of the post at hand is such that makes feel as if hyperbole is in effect. Any opinions welcome :)

 

Am not into RGB/circus lights, am not into hard tubing, am not into looks or bling. Just function, ie lowest possible delta. I won't give rig specifics, firstly because i do not have them yet, secondly because if it gets down to 'good enough as long as..', then i guess you've already answered me :)

 

Would appreciate any pointers.

    
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post #20965 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aenra View Post

A bit of a general question (albeit solely EK-related). This whole OC->related cooling->parts erm, hobby, is recent for me. Been reading like crazy for months now, but i'm still at a point where i mostly know what i do not know, if you get my point ^^
This being the case, i was thinking of going the "everything from EKWB" route to play it safe, least so far as compatibility may be concerned.. spare me any potential trouble.

So to the question; excluding specifics (for example their current TR4 block) which do not constitute the rule so let's keep them out, is there anything, rads, pumps, combos, tubing, fans (planning for furious vardars+ push-pull) anything that you'd advise me to look elsewhere for?
I read a lot about flaking, i read a lot about current quality decrease, but i) have zero way to verify any of it, ii) often enough the style and tone of the post at hand is such that makes feel as if hyperbole is in effect. Any opinions welcome smile.gif

Am not into RGB/circus lights, am not into hard tubing, am not into looks or bling. Just function, ie lowest possible delta. I won't give rig specifics, firstly because i do not have them yet, secondly because if it gets down to 'good enough as long as..', then i guess you've already answered me smile.gif

Would appreciate any pointers.

Good question.
I've done a few loops, mainly with EK stuff.
By far the best most functional loop was completely EK and used the black tube, which makes super sharp bends without problem, is soft enough to make assembly easy and looks quite good with the chrome.
One thing I would change out is to go for the corsair mag lev fans. They're way better than the vardars.
If you go 420 instead of 360, go for Phanteks. The 360 rad from EK is a bit average, but the 420 rad is brilliant.
ps: I have an entire cupboard full of fans and rads lol.

Here's a good reason to stick to the one manufacturer:

Notice the hairline cracks that appeared after I changed the fittings from EK to Monsoon.
I think they've penetrated too far in and pulled the acrylic out a bit, which is quite thin there.
No leaks but now I have to monitor it...
Of course this could be a flaw with the new X299 monoblocks.
If possible keep away from the acrylic bits.

Oh, edit: welcome to the obsession I mean hobby
Edited by surfinchina - 11/19/17 at 3:34pm
post #20966 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfinchina View Post

Here's a good reason to stick to the one manufacturer:

Notice the hairline cracks that appeared after I changed the fittings from EK to Monsoon.
I think they've penetrated too far in and pulled the acrylic out a bit, which is quite thin there.
No leaks but now I have to monitor it...
Of course this could be a flaw with the new X299 monoblocks.
If possible keep away from the acrylic bits.

Definitely interesting!
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post #20967 of 21157
I don't have a problem with cracking in my old HF Supreme Classy top. From the looks of it, it seems that the collar is what caused the cracking in that MonoBlock. I cannot say for certain however since even if you pulled the collar off the cracks would extend under the base due to the nature of the acrylic top. thinking.gif

But my Classy top has even had monsoon economy fittings(barbed) on it and it looks pristine to this day. I will suggest that the cracking may have occurred when tightening the collar past snug. Meaning there were no more threads to be covered and the base continued to snug, causing the offensive cracks. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Edited by Ceadderman - 11/19/17 at 4:54pm
 
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post #20968 of 21157
Yeah it's a pain.
When I put the fittings in I tightened them by hand and then about 1/4 turn with the supplied tightening tool, so it's not over tight. The collar is still off the monoblock enough to get my fingernail in between them.
All I can think of is that the monoblock is defective or that the acrylic is thin there and the fitting pushed against the diffuser and pulled the thread, which is sort of saying the monoblock is either defective or badly designed. Oh, just thought, maybe when I was tightening the collar, which I did pretty tight, it turned the thread...
My primochill vue is turning up later today so I'll run the cleaning stuff through the loop then pull it apart to find out what's going on.

Which p@$#s me off because I ran soft tubing in this rig for 6 months, finally sorted out my system and got everything nice, delidded, pulled apart all of my watercooling bits and cleaned them, and only went to hard tubes when I was pretty sure I wouldn't have to pull it apart again. haha.
post #20969 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

I don't have a problem with cracking in my old HF Supreme Classy top. From the looks of it, it seems that the collar is what caused the cracking in that MonoBlock. I cannot say for certain however since even if you pulled the collar off the cracks would extend under the base due to the nature of the acrylic top. thinking.gif

But my Classy top has even had monsoon economy fittings(barbed) on it and it looks pristine to this day. I will suggest that the cracking may have occurred when tightening the collar past snug. Meaning there were no more threads to be covered and the base continued to snug, causing the offensive cracks. smile.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

edit:
So here's a question for everyone.
I've got an evo supremacy I used before I got the monoblock.

Would you play safe and have hotter VRMs with the Evo Supremacy (it's X299) or assume that it's not a structural problem and those tiny hairline cracks aren't going to leak one day - keep the monoblock.
Or buy another monoblock - which needs to be imported.
Edited by surfinchina - 11/19/17 at 7:19pm
post #20970 of 21157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aenra View Post

A bit of a general question (albeit solely EK-related). This whole OC->related cooling->parts erm, hobby, is recent for me. Been reading like crazy for months now, but i'm still at a point where i mostly know what i do not know, if you get my point ^^
This being the case, i was thinking of going the "everything from EKWB" route to play it safe, least so far as compatibility may be concerned.. spare me any potential trouble.

So to the question; excluding specifics (for example their current TR4 block) which do not constitute the rule so let's keep them out, is there anything, rads, pumps, combos, tubing, fans (planning for furious vardars+ push-pull) anything that you'd advise me to look elsewhere for?
I read a lot about flaking, i read a lot about current quality decrease, but i) have zero way to verify any of it, ii) often enough the style and tone of the post at hand is such that makes feel as if hyperbole is in effect. Any opinions welcome smile.gif

Am not into RGB/circus lights, am not into hard tubing, am not into looks or bling. Just function, ie lowest possible delta. I won't give rig specifics, firstly because i do not have them yet, secondly because if it gets down to 'good enough as long as..', then i guess you've already answered me smile.gif

Would appreciate any pointers.

Hi. I am new to EK and don't have much practical experience to share yet. But I share a lot of thoughts with you, like function over the look, etc.

One thing I do want to share is my purchase experience. I tried to "assemble" my own kit and compare with EK-kit, and found out the EK-Kit is a better deal even they don't give you exactly what you need, (e.g. no drain port or flushing consideration), but it is a lot cheaper to go with a kit, then add what you need to add/replace. I went for the P Kit, mainly because I prefer the D5 pump over the (X kit ) DDC. I upgrade to larger res with multi-port top.

Interested to see others' comment about the black tubing. I think I will stay with the out-of-box clear tubing for now, so I can see if there is any dirt in the loop. I also don't expect sharp turns in my loop. My first loop will be short and clean as possible: pump -> PE360 rad -> CPU -> GPU -> top of res with rotary connector (so it can be disconnected for flushing). T spliter at the pump out to add the drain port (also the lowest point of the loop).

There are lots of other consideration for airflow to cool the rest of components (VRM, Memory, M2, etc.), and also a vertical GPU mount for better air cooling, ends up with better look accidentally smile.gif
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