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EK Club - Page 242

post #2411 of 20454
Can anyone at EK tell me why the new PE rads are 6-32 threads for fan screws and the XT/XTX are all M3? I'm guessing from the prices that maybe they are coming from a different OEM maker?
post #2412 of 20454
@Jimhans1 I was able to remove my faulty plexi top and install it again, was quite easy. biggrin.gif


Hopefully they ship the replacement plexi top tomorrow.
    
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post #2413 of 20454
Quote:
Originally Posted by derickwm View Post

Just aren't made very often. I'll see if I can find out an eta for ya.

I was going to contact EK support about an ETA as well.
Hopefully I can get an answer here, just bought two 780 Classifieds!
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post #2414 of 20454
@kcuestag Glad to hear it bro! smile.gif
post #2415 of 20454
I
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragsters View Post

I'm really interested in the new PE series radiators (480 rad). Are there any reviews worth looking at? With the fin density so high will a set of Typhoons (middle speed) in push be enough?

I have two of these with cougars at 35% -65% depending on temp on push pull and they perform quite well. I'm very happy with the build and performance.
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post #2416 of 20454
Actually guys, quick question, ordering off EK's own webshop, does anyone know the cutoff time to get an order next day if you select the one day DHL shipping option ?
    
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post #2417 of 20454
There isn't really one. Our webshop orders are managed by a very small team. Shipping rates correspond to DHL handling time, our orders go out first come first serve basis for the most part. Saying that, the best chance for an order to go out the same day it's ordered is before 10am Ljubljana local time, no guarantee though.
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post #2418 of 20454
Quote:
Originally Posted by derickwm View Post

There isn't really one. Our webshop orders are managed by a very small team. Shipping rates correspond to DHL handling time, our orders go out first come first serve basis for the most part. Saying that, the best chance for an order to go out the same day it's ordered is before 10am Ljubljana local time, no guarantee though.

Perfect ! Should be going in fairly early in the AM, bringing my laptop with me to work to order ! redface.gif

Thanks !
    
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post #2419 of 20454
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Nice looking rig Jack, just curious why I see all these Asus boards with the memory in, what asus says, is the wrong slots for a two-stick dual channel set up as the black slots are the primary slots for the motherboard. Just curious, as Asus has reported that it can have issues with trying to achieve higher OC's.

Edit: also, what case is that system in??

yes Asus is driving me nutz with that .... for years I been telling peeps 2nd and 4th from CPU dude and now they do a switcheroo on me.



The case is Case of the Year (CES 2014) Enthoo Primo .... they introduced a white one, white and blacl one and two smaller models at $89 and $139 too at CES.

Primo is $209 on newegg rt now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Type 1 and type 2 aluminum anodizing is really only a cosmetic anodizing to help dye the metal, type 3 or sulfuric acid Hard Coat anodizing, is the only anodizing that will leave a surface finish on it like that of the block used in the M6F, so the type of anodizing in this case is plainly visible. The only possible issue for it in this situation would be if the heatsink/block were able to reach 80c+ temps, since the anodizing doesn't expand the same as the underlying aluminum, it could cause it to crack. Having worked in the metal fabrication industry in the past using this type of anodizing, I personally have zero issue with using it in a cooling loop. And if in my use I find corrosion (hasn't happened yet for me with a type III anodized part) I will gladly eat my words.

I just got done typing the same thing in another post.. including the 80C stuff .. smile.gif wish id seen yurs 1st !.... the three VRMs are at 29, 33 and 33C atm


Quote:
Originally Posted by INCREDIBLEHULK View Post

if there is a scratch on the type 3 anodized surface, over time is it still gradually going to result into a deeper scratch untill ultimately it reaches the aluminum?

As Jim said, it's a very hard surface, you'd have to put some effort and hardened metal in there to scratch it....if the scratch was at a point of dissimilar metal contact, and there was a high presence of chlorides in the liquid, you would have localized corrosion.


Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

One loop is always more efficient and will always cool better than two loops.
If you think flow is a concern, install your two pumps in series in the one loop.

Well ya do use more electricity and a 35x2 would prolly suffice tho pressure would be up there .... but 14 x 140mm rads is a lot along with 4 GFX cards. But the best thing about multiple loops is that ya can 1) build gradually w/o ripping anything down and 2) use multiple color coolants
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 1/13/14 at 3:38pm
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post #2420 of 20454
I just want to thank the EK team as a whole. You guys put up with all my non stop questions and sorted out my RMA with the quickness.
I can't thank you dudes enough. thumb.gif
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