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First WC Build - Looking for Advice - Page 2

post #11 of 23
Thread Starter 
Anyone know how hard it is (or even possible) to mount a Danger Den RAD-Reservoir to the back of the motherboard plate? I'm assuming I'll just have to drill 4 holes, but I think I'll have to do that with any tube reservoir.

I am trying to stick with this reservoir because I want to go with a UV Blue / Chrome look.

EDIT: I am also trying to figure out a good way to drain the system. I was thinking about putting a Koolance G1/4" Brass Inline Drain Valve Fitting on the pump then run some tubing from it and attach a Koolance QDC (Extreme Flow) No-Spill, Male Compression (13mm, 1/2" x 19mm, 3/4") at the end. Will that work?
Edited by DravenLoN - 4/19/11 at 4:08am
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post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
Here is a very crappy image I made to give you an idea what I have in mind.
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post #13 of 23
To drain my loop, I just used a T-block with a stop plug roughly at the same level as my pump. I did this for a couple reasons:

Quick disconnects are way too expensive. To run that setup, you'd need a T-block PLUS a quick disconnect. Thats $30-$40 bucks just for a drain line.

Since your gonna be draining anyway, it doesn't have to be completely spill proof. It's not pressurized when the pumps not running, so spraying isn't an issue when unscrewing something that threaded.

Finally, I think it looks better than having a dangling line. It flows with my loop and gives me a nice 90 degree bend where I needed one anyway.

If you don't really have the option of putting a T-block at pump level, you could still save a few bucks by using something like this instead of a quick disconnect.
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post #14 of 23
Thread Starter 
What if I put the QDC at the end of the tube that runs from the Res to Pump. Just disconnect it from the pump and drain?
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post #15 of 23
If you do that, then you won't be able to drain. QDC are used to disconnect tubing without spilling any water, but they're joined, they allow flow. To run the setup I was talking about above, you would have one side connected in your loop and the other side connected to an open tube. To drain, you would just connect the two fittings and let it drain from the open tube.

If you wanted to do a threaded disconnect in your line, you could use this and this along with a normal barb and a rotary barb (you'll need to be able to unscrew one side without twisting your tube).
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post #16 of 23
Thread Starter 
Great information. I guess I didn't realize how the QDC's worked, now I do

Thanks!
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post #17 of 23
No problem. Glad to help.

Welcome to OCN by the way. Make sure to skim over the rules and get familiar with the rep system. Enjoy your stay here.
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post #18 of 23
Thread Starter 
Decided to change my setup... again. Gonna with with a XSPC Pump / Res bay. Only problem is that I read the grooves aren't deep enough to slide into the 800D case so I'll have to use a rotary tool to make them deeper

Changed my diagram above.
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post #19 of 23
Thread Starter 
Need some advice on CPU Blocks please.

EK Supreme HF - Rev 2 - Plexi or Koolance CPU-370 Liquid Cooling Extreme CPU Block

SkinneeLabs gave good reviews for the Koolance CPU-360, being the "winner" to date (17 April 2010). But I see alot of people using the EK Supreme HF.

What do you guys think?


EDIT: Nevermind. Found a review on SkinneeLabs.
Edited by DravenLoN - 4/20/11 at 6:36am
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post #20 of 23
Thread Starter 
It's been a couple months, and am now able to start building this machine.

So, I am just wondering if this is still a good setup?

I've done some looking around and there might be a radiator that beats the XSPC RX360 and that's Thermochill PA120.3 15mm. Opinions?

I also can't seem to find a Sapphire Radeon Xtreme HD 5850 now so can anyone recommend a graphics card with about a $200 budget area?
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