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post #31 of 41
lol any 30" IPS display will be sick... If looking to save some cash, there is a thread on slickdeals about Dell refurb 30" (almost as good it seems as the HP, just not as popular?) for around $800 or so?

As for cable management, I certainly don't have the patience to do nice sleeving and whatnot. Fortunately, my Corsair PSU came pre-sleeved, and many (if not most) come presleeved these days anyway. If you want to really be fancy, you can buy those newfangled "individually sleeved" cables for your mobo, 8-pin 12v, and video cards. Those are really snazzy, and you can get them in all sorts of fun colors as well, and relative to everything else you're buying, they won't break the bank.

I'll be honest, I think the motherboard block is a waste of money. You do what you want, but you won't get any better O/Cing potential out of watercooling it, especially with a 1155 chipset. Notice that not a single board has an actively cooled VRM/power/northbridge for any of the 1155 chipsets... They just don't create much heat, so small heatsinks are all that are needed, even for the most 1337 of overclockers. And it's also not like it plays much of a part in the overclocking potential like it did when it was power management and a separate FSB. Those were the days where motherboard watercooling made a lot of sense.

Most people here will be honest and tell you that it's just for "the full watercooling experience." I agree that it is, but I feel no disappointment that I'm not watercooling my board that doesn't get hot enough to warrant putting it under water (especially for $180 )

Man, after seeing the recent article in Toms Hardware about Tri-SLI and Tri-Crossfire scaling on my $180 mobo which doesn't even have 3 full 16x slots (not even 8x, only 2 8x and the last one is 4x) I feel that nobody should buy the MaximusIV. I mean, it's a badass board, and if I had the money, I'd go for it, but I don't, so I won't. But there's no quantifiable benefit to it, as you're likely to run into your specific processor's overclocking wall before you hit the board's.

Either way, this is still going to be a sick build, and I wish you the best of luck wish I could help put it together!
post #32 of 41
Thread Starter 
Been checking out more videos and pics and more threads and getting some good ideas on how to lay things out. One thing that is puzzling me is setting up proper drainage. It's hard to see in videos and pics how people create an efficient outlet for draining and then cleaning the WC system.

I'm not going to be using any dyes, just distilled water and perhaps a tablespoon or so of distilled vinegar. So I'm hoping that I won't have to disassemble the entire WC system in order to clean it.

And I'm confused about shorting the power supply when running a leak test. Why is it necessary to do so? I'm no electrician so I'm not sure how that's different than just turning it on with the regular switch. Obviously the only thing I'd have plugged into it would be the pump.
    
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post #33 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellagiofan View Post
Been checking out more videos and pics and more threads and getting some good ideas on how to lay things out. One thing that is puzzling me is setting up proper drainage. It's hard to see in videos and pics how people create an efficient outlet for draining and then cleaning the WC system.

I'm not going to be using any dyes, just distilled water and perhaps a tablespoon or so of distilled vinegar. So I'm hoping that I won't have to disassemble the entire WC system in order to clean it.

And I'm confused about shorting the power supply when running a leak test. Why is it necessary to do so? I'm no electrician so I'm not sure how that's different than just turning it on with the regular switch. Obviously the only thing I'd have plugged into it would be the pump.

For draining, your best bet is to set up one of the connections in your system (or more) with some of those new Koolance no-drip quick disconnects (QD), preferably the horizontal pump return/outlet, since it should be the lowest point in your loop. Then if you want to drain, you just stick a third QD on a piece of hose, hook it into the system, and let it drain.

As far as shorting the PSU, you do that so you do not boot your computer (you will want to disconnect all computer parts from the PSU before shorting, including mobo, 12v on mobo, all video card power, and probably hdd power though I've been leaving mine on) while working on the watercooling loop. What it does is allows you to use the power of the PSU without it having a working computer telling it to power on.

All you do is take a paperclip or other metal flexible small item and short pins 3 and 4 on the mobo. It's the green one in the 4th position and the black one next to it. The green is the power-on signal, and black is the ground. That will effectively tell the PSU to be on as long as that circuit is closed, so it'll provide power to all of the system components.

As far as I know, it does not damage components to have them on without actually using the motherboard, but I wouldn't recommend it. If nothing else, it's just liability if there is a leak that that item would have power and could be destroyed if it gets wet. If only the PSU and pump are plugged in and powered, they're the only things that can destroyed if they get wet. I have never had it happen, but others have had water leak into various parts of their computer with the power on and have had the parts survive, but it's really a tossup. We use distilled water so it is not conductive, but it probably absorbs/adsorbs metals and other stuff from what it touches over time, so we assume that eventually it will be conductive again, whether or not that's true I couldn't say without testing it's conductivity.

Also, where did the vinegar idea come from? I wouldn't do that, as it's an organic acid. Organic is bad because bacteria can live in it, and acid is bad because it can eat away at things. Is it likely to become a problem? No. Is the probability of it becoming a problem greater than possible benefits generated versus a silver coil? Probably.

Hope that helps answers that
post #34 of 41
Thread Starter 
But if you're disconnecting everything from the PSU, including the mobo, what is taking a paperclip to the mobo going to do to turn the PSU on? I'm missing something.

Also, I read something about having more than one metal in the loop causing some sort of corrosion problem. What if I have nickel and copper or some other metal in my loop? I don't know if I can get all metals to be consistent, especially when some are plated.

I guess the vinegar came from using it in the cleaning process.

Got the case in today. Motherboard won't be in for like a week. The retailer Amazon is drop shipping from seems to be slow in their warehousing and it's coming out of NY, so it's got to travel cross country.

I'm wondering what the name is of the part that extends the fitting length so I can get it around the fan. In other words, I can simply use a straight fitting and have the house curve around the edge of the fan, or I can use a 45 degree fitting, but I need some sort of straight part that screws in between the 45 degree fitting and the radiator.

Oh, and when I'm screwing in fittings into the various places, am I supposed to be using some sort of sealant? I have plumbers thread seal tape, but it looks like the threads are too short to wrap the tape around. From the pictures, it looks like the fittings only take a couple turns to tighten and want to really guarantee a waterproof seal.
    
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post #35 of 41
You don't use the paperclip on the motherboard, you use it on the ATX plug from your motherboard. It's the fourth pin in which is green (position 14 I believe) shorted to 13 or 15, doesn't matter, they're both common grounds. It'll power on the PSU as long as that's connected. When I do that, I leave the paperclip in the plug, and turn the PSU on and off through the rocker switch on the back of the PSU or from the plug from the wall. more info on shorting the PSU can be found here.

Yes, galvanic corrosion is a problem, but more when you're using items that have aluminum and copper together. Nickle-plated copper, copper, brass, and stainless steel will not easily react in your system, so no worries. The only metal to avoid inside the loop is aluminum. When using aluminum with copper, you want to have a corrosion inhibitor, which is when those "super duper cooling fluids" come into play. If you don't have aluminum, then you're fine.

They have extended 45 degree fittings, or you can get a solid piece of G1/4 male on one end and female on the other and just use it as a hard extension. A few people build their entire loops out of this. I didn't bother with 45 degree fittings, I just used the curving of the tube (as technically it reduces any potential areas of resistance like a 90 degree fitting would produce. 45 it isn't as much of a big deal).

When using the fittings, you can use teflon tape, but generally all pieces you encounter SHOULD have an o-ring after their threads. As long as the oring is in place and intact, you're good to go. The only time I encountered a leak on my current rig was that I didn't want to overtighten one of the fittings on my video card's block, so I screwed it in to the point of where the oring looked snug but not squished. It leaked. I tighened it up more, to where it looked squished, and it didn't leak anymore.

There are other options as well like using silicone or loctite or stuff like that on the threads, but I have not seen anyone recommending doing that, and honestly I don't know what if any reaction it might have with an active recirculating cooling loop.

Be very careful if you use teflon tape to not have any excess on the inside of the tubes, as it can fray, fall apart, get blown around the system, and get caught in waterblocks or the pump.
post #36 of 41
Thread Starter 
Doctor - "So what repetitive motion are you doing with your hand that led to this carpal tunnel?"
Me - "Hitting the rep button on this guy that's been very helpful in overclock.net."
Doctor "Is that what they call it these days?"
Me - "No seriously! And he's a doctor too!"

Ahhh so the PSU doesn't turn on unless getting a signal from the motherboard, so you can't just plug the pump in and hit the rocker switch. Makes sense now.

Thanks to a discussion about Gentle Typhoons in another thread, I was able to order 6 of them from a retailer that had them in stock. I got the 1850 RPM ones. Had to pay a customs fee but because the price per fan was like $5 less than the Noiseblockers I was going to order, the net result was a savings so I'm stoked. Was thinking of ordering 4 extras for a potential 240 setup in the outside back of the rig, but I want to first see what results I can get from an enclosed setup.

As far as the quick disconnects... Do you think it's necessary to disconnect at the point you mentioned and run hoses from both ends down into, say a bucket of distilled water (perhaps including some sort of cleaning solution), where you can let it cycle through the system overnight. Then drain it. Then flush it a few times with distilled water. Then finally fill it with distilled water.

Or is this overkill?

If I'm using distilled water only in the system, I'm not sure how dirty things will get and what I'll need to do to keep things maintained efficiently.

Just trying to strike a balance between ease and quality of cleaning. I don't think any part will contain aluminum.
    
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post #37 of 41
lol I'm glad I can be of assistance. Sadly, I'm only a doctor on the internet. I don't have time to become a Dr. IRL

Awesome to see that you were able to get the GTs though. I just saw that Aquatuning.us has them, so that's a valid option, but I guess you were able to get them and that's all that counts.

For the quick disconnects (QDs), that's actually a pretty smart idea. People here have recommend flushing a radiator with vinegar before using it, to clear out any excess flux or solder whatever bits instead of just circulating it. You could use the break before the pump intake (if you went with that idea) to put an intake and outlet into a bucket, use distilled plus some vinegar, and have it run an "open circuit" with the bucket, which makes eventually flushing the vinegar water out, and it allows any scraps that are in any of the blocks to be deposited and settle in the bucket, keeping them from getting taken back up into the pump and possibly scratching the insides of the pump and wearing out/griding on parts of it, or getting lodged into a block. Just make sure the intake isn't near the outlet so they'll have time to settle.

Just make sure after running the distilled/vinegar loop to flush it thoroughly with distilled, and if you leave it running in a bucket it's easy to change out the fluids.

To get the loop started, just stick the intake line into the bucket, and by your mouth prime water into the pump. Once the water is in the pump, hit the power switch, let the loop run, and check EVERYWHERE with a flashlight for leaks.
post #38 of 41
Thread Starter 
And since it's an open circuit, am I safe to assume I can prime it my sucking from the other tube?

Doing this setup, it sounds like what I need to order are two complete disconnects. One set connecting the pump intake to the video card out (lowest part of the system), then the other set is for the two extended tubes that are to go into the bucket. Since one end will be female and the other end will be male, I'd just match them accordingly with the first set of QDCs.

Is that right? I'm looking at the VL3N model based on the size of tubing:

http://www.koolance.com/technical/qu..._fittings.html

As far as UV lights, I'm considering the Logisys Dual UV 12" lights. Seems they are the most common. They recommend having them threaded, I guess because the wires will show since they connect to a mounting plate for the on/off switch. Otherwise, I'd imagine, most of the cabling and the lights themselves should be hidden behind the side door. I'm afraid with such a large tower, it might not be strong enough so I'm open to running two side-by-side. Two on the bottom, two on the side rear. Link to those:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/29...Bright_UV.html
    
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post #39 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellagiofan View Post
And since it's an open circuit, am I safe to assume I can prime it my sucking from the other tube?
Traditionally an open circuit will not allow suction, as usually open circuit means that it's open somewhere in the loop to air, breaking the vacuum. You will be the vacuum on one side, sucking the water out through what normally goes into your pump intake, this action pulls water up into your pump from the bucket. Once the water has reached the pump (with a small margin over the pump) you turn the pump on and it puts positive pressure on the rest of the system pushing water through. Then once you get rid of the bucket and seal it up, boom closed system, limits evaporation and contamination from outside stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellagiofan View Post
Doing this setup, it sounds like what I need to order are two complete disconnects. One set connecting the pump intake to the video card out (lowest part of the system), then the other set is for the two extended tubes that are to go into the bucket. Since one end will be female and the other end will be male, I'd just match them accordingly with the first set of QDCs.

Is that right? I'm looking at the VL3N model based on the size of tubing:

http://www.koolance.com/technical/qu..._fittings.html
Yes, two complete sets. You've got the right idea. I'm a bit confused about the pump intake from video card, but I assume it means you're running pump->rad->CPU->GPU(s)->reservoir->pump? Keep in mind it's very important to have the reservoir be right before the intake, that way the pump is always getting a consistent supply of water. Let me know the order you were planning on going with, because now I'm confused

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellagiofan View Post
As far as UV lights, I'm considering the Logisys Dual UV 12" lights. Seems they are the most common. They recommend having them threaded, I guess because the wires will show since they connect to a mounting plate for the on/off switch. Otherwise, I'd imagine, most of the cabling and the lights themselves should be hidden behind the side door. I'm afraid with such a large tower, it might not be strong enough so I'm open to running two side-by-side. Two on the bottom, two on the side rear. Link to those:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/29...Bright_UV.html
UV lights are good, but I'm confused as to the threaded part. I've never seen a mounting plate in my (limited) experience. I've always used double-sided velcro to hold the ends of my cathode lights (they were actually LEDs), but hopefully someone more knowledgeable can chime in here.
post #40 of 41
Thread Starter 
Traditionally an open circuit will not allow suction, as usually open circuit means that it's open somewhere in the loop to air, breaking the vacuum. You will be the vacuum on one side, sucking the water out through what normally goes into your pump intake, this action pulls water up into your pump from the bucket. Once the water has reached the pump (with a small margin over the pump) you turn the pump on and it puts positive pressure on the rest of the system pushing water through. Then once you get rid of the bucket and seal it up, boom closed system, limits evaporation and contamination from outside stuff.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.GumbyM.D. View Post
Yes, two complete sets. You've got the right idea. I'm a bit confused about the pump intake from video card, but I assume it means you're running pump->rad->CPU->GPU(s)->reservoir->pump? Keep in mind it's very important to have the reservoir be right before the intake, that way the pump is always getting a consistent supply of water. Let me know the order you were planning on going with, because now I'm confused
Yeah, I meant to say res, not pump. However, I am confused on where I'm going to put the pump. I guess it would make more sense if I had all the pieces together. Like, how is the res feeding water to the pump? Is it just as simple as a hole located somewhere low on the res and the pump is adjacent to it? And as long as the water level in the res always remains noticeably higher than the top of the hole, then we're good? Or is the hole actually on the 'floor' of the reservoir so that the pump has to be situated directly below it? I would imagine that can't be right because the res is designed to fit in the 51/4 bays.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.GumbyM.D. View Post
UV lights are good, but I'm confused as to the threaded part. I've never seen a mounting plate in my (limited) experience. I've always used double-sided velcro to hold the ends of my cathode lights (they were actually LEDs), but hopefully someone more knowledgeable can chime in here.

It's a PCI backplate switch. From what I gather, you velcro the lights themselves wherever you want them, but wire I'm guessing is running from the CPU to the backplate (I called it a mounting plate because I couldn't remember the official name of it) to the light. And while some of the wiring might be tucked out of the way for cable management purposes, some of it close to the backplate will be visible.

Here's a good shot of the backplate:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/loduuv12incc.html
    
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