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Help with: WC liquids

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
I've read a ton here on the forums. I've learnt a ton on how to's and part specs; ranging from pumps to fittings to reservoirs and rad sizes etc. The one thing I can't seem to get my hands on is WC liquids. Either reviews, the do's and don'ts etc. There seems to be a TON of diffrent products, and choosing one seems a little confusing.

Thanks!

-Rog
Edited by Rognin - 4/22/11 at 10:09am
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post #2 of 15
The opinion you're most likely to receive on here is to not use any liquid other than distilled water with a silver kill coil placed in the loop. If you want color, it's recommended to get colored tubing (or do what I did and go with white tubing so that it just reflects whatever color you light your case up with )
post #3 of 15
All you need is distilled water and a biocide such as pt-nuke or a killcoil

http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html
http://www.petrastechshop.com/sikibyia.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.GumbyM.D. View Post
The opinion you're most likely to receive on here is to not use any liquid other than distilled water with a silver kill coil placed in the loop. If you want color, it's recommended to get colored tubing (or do what I did and go with white tubing so that it just reflects whatever color you light your case up with )
well called. Coloured tubing is by far better then having clear + a colored wc liquid. Often those special liquids perform same or worse
Edited by Yumyums - 4/22/11 at 10:19am
post #4 of 15
As those two said, distilled water and a chemical biocide or silver is the way to go. I've used PT_Nuke -PHN for the last year or two and haven't had any issues.
post #5 of 15
Silver kill coil and distilled water...

I have used PT nuke in the past but find it to be a complete waste of money because of how often I break down and rebuild

silver killcoil works as good or better and never goes away no matter how many times you rebuild
post #6 of 15
I have a Asetek 570LX WC with a 240 MM Rad. that is a closed end system. You have nothing to fill, all you do is install it. I had my for over 8 months, and still love it. The only thing bad about it is it only cools the CPU. Check out my sig rig to see how good it does.

Hope this helps.
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post #7 of 15
Thread Starter 
I just found some info here.

So it seems you're better off with distilled water with some sort of additive to raise PH just a little with an anti-fungal solution or silver coil.
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post #8 of 15
Distilled water and kill coil - this is what I'm going to when I'm done with my first ever loop.

Don't ever (even think about it) put any dyes or additives in your loop (with the exception of PT nuke). What I don't understand is why are they still being sold to stores since there's no benefit using them.
post #9 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by _s3v3n_ View Post
Distilled water and kill coil - this is what I'm going to when I'm done with my first ever loop.

Don't ever (even think about it) put any dyes or additives in your loop (with the exception of PT nuke). What I don't understand is why are they still being sold to stores since there's no benefit using them.

Ever heard of Capitalism, if it breaks you'll buy more... =P

Where do we find Milli-Q? =P
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post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Too Pure?

Can water be too pure for use in PC water-coolant systems? It may sound counter-intuitive, but yes, water can be too pure. As we discussed in Part 1, both distilled and de-ionized (DI) water have a very low dissolved solids content. This means there is a very low concentration of ions in solution, as indicated by high conductivity. It takes a lot of effort and energy (various purification processes) to remove the majority of ions from water. Water desires these ions back to maintain equilibrium and will aggressively take them from any available source.

Using 100% distilled water or DI water in a PC water-cooling system is not recommended, as it may slowly attack metallic surfaces, especially aluminum!

Hrmmm... so you do need addatives.
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