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Watercooling Checklist

post #1 of 38
Thread Starter 
UPDATE: Apr.23

CPU Loop:
Kill Coil
Swiftech MCP655
Black Ice GTX Stealth 240 X-Flow Radiator
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Tubing (black) - 7/16
EK Supreme HF Rev.2 Nickel+Acetal Waterblock
Bitspower Matte Black Barbs - 1/2
PrimoChill Clamps
Gentle Typhoon AP-15s
Swiftech Micro Reservoir Ver.2


GPU Loop (when I add it in)
EK-FC480 GTX-Nickel+Acetal Waterblock
Not sure on how I want to add in another Radiator, so this is still in progress...

How's it all look so far?
Edited by R3apR369 - 4/24/11 at 7:27pm
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post #2 of 38
First off I would automatically change the Feser water to go to the store and buy Distilled water. Same stuff, 1/4 the price

Otherwise it looks good. I would get some sort of clamp to put on the pump since it doesn't have G 1/4" fittings. Worm drive clamps from the hardware store work fine if you don't mind the look. Otherwise black (or whatever color) zip ties can work okay.

Edit:

Also, if you're planning on adding GPU blocks down the line, I would get a beefier radiator up front. Maybe one of the thicker ones like the GTX or SR-1. You will need fans that can get louder, but hopefully you're using a fan controller to keep your fans in line as it is, if not, I'd recommend adding one as well. I can't stand fans at full force.
Edited by Dr.GumbyM.D. - 4/22/11 at 3:46pm
post #3 of 38
Thread Starter 
Yeah, was wondering if their was a point in buying the D.Water online. Thought it was a lil more special than any store brand, lol.

You referring to where I would set the pump at? I was thinking on the bottom of my case.
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post #4 of 38
I'm not talking about where to put the pump, but how to mount the hoses to it. The pump has integrated 1/2" ID barbs, which is fine, but I would recommend securing it down with a backup like a hose clamp or zip tie.

As far as the online water, pure water is pure water, though I still don't understand the specifics as to why people recommend distilled on here and recommend against deionized. If it has 0 tds, it has 0 tds. I think the pH might be a little different, but whatever it is I'd be surprised if it was high or low enough to make a difference.
post #5 of 38
Learnt this today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.GumbyM.D. View Post
I'm not talking about where to put the pump, but how to mount the hoses to it. The pump has integrated 1/2" ID barbs, which is fine, but I would recommend securing it down with a backup like a hose clamp or zip tie.

As far as the online water, pure water is pure water, though I still don't understand the specifics as to why people recommend distilled on here and recommend against deionized. If it has 0 tds, it has 0 tds. I think the pH might be a little different, but whatever it is I'd be surprised if it was high or low enough to make a difference.
I think you're right about deionized.



Water quality is determined by conductivity (ie: more minerals and crap means more conductive). The lower the number in the pink the better. Everything else after that is (from what I heard) PT_Nuke and a killcoil (silver coil you put in the res.).

Granted this is a 4 year old report, I think that numbers never lie. =P

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post #6 of 38
Thread Starter 
[QUOTE=Dr.GumbyM.D.;13234260]I'm not talking about where to put the pump, but how to mount the hoses to it. The pump has integrated 1/2" ID barbs, which is fine, but I would recommend securing it down with a backup like a hose clamp or zip tie.

Okay, I understand. Now for Compression Fittings, only 8 is needed for a CPU loop right? Radiator:2, Res:2, CPU:2, Pump:2?

I looked up that GTX Radiator, it definitely is beefy. Also added in a EK GPU Block....which made the total price jump , hah. If I decide to add in the GPU Block, how many fittings would I need?
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post #7 of 38
I don't know what comes with the GPU block, however it likely won't come with barbs. You would need barbs and caps, as they usually have inlets/outlets on the top and bottom (it's actually just the same channel, just two outlets on each side).

You should be good with the 8 fittings, correct.

As far as that chart above, you can see that distilled still has some dissolved solids in it. When I was into aquariums, I had a Reverse Osmosis + De-ionizer system that would output 0.0 tds, 0 conductivity. We didn't use distilled water because that small percentage of dissolved solids left could be anything, including copper from the distillation system, which is deadly in a reef aquarium. I think that people here prefer the distilled versus pure (0 tds) water because there are concerns about Desorption (opposite of absorbtion) from the purity of the water interacting with either waterblocks or tubing. It sounds interesting, but I don't believe it, since I've never heard if it happening (the RO/DI system has copper and tubing, but it does not "seep"/desorb anything into it's own water effluent)

The pH issue, I don't know enough about chemistry to explain, but there are concerns that deionized water has a higher pH because of the O2 in the water versus distilled which drives the O2 out during boiling which has a lower pH. Either way, it generally shouldn't be enough to impact these relatively inert materials that we use in our watercooling loops. When working on an aquarium where you're messing with pH, alkalinity, calcium, phosphate, nitrate, etc etc etc levels, all of these tiny variations matter in the balance of keeping sensitive critters alive.
post #8 of 38
kinda makes me sick that someone would spend more on fittings than on the radiator.

6 fittings for that loop not 8
    
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post #9 of 38
Nice, let me know how this build goes
post #10 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by microman View Post
kinda makes me sick that someone would spend more on fittings than on the radiator.

6 fittings for that loop not 8
That's right. You only need clamps for the pump, not compression fittings.

If you went with a pump with an aftermarket top on it or a top/reservoir, then you'd need fittings.

Sorry about that, I'm thinking about my build. I've got an MCP650 that has the 1/2" barbs, but didn't use that, instead I used the newer MCP355 w/ XSPC res/top. The MCP355 needs barbs, the MCP650/655 all do not need fittings.
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