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How much does cfm matter in cooling?

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 

I was thinking of getting COOLER MASTER SickleFlows suggested by a fellow ocner... i looked and they seem to have decent airflow and reasonable noise level as i will be running them off of 12v.

I found Scythe Ultra kaze 3000rpm for the exact same price.... it moves more air but i looked it up and saw it made this much noise off of 12v.


Are my headphones broken or do they really make that much noise? I am assuming they make less if they were in a case?

so which one? scythe or coolermaster?
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post #2 of 19
CFM is everything... the more air you can move the better the thermal dissipation, having said that a compromise can be achieved by getting high CFM fans and running them at lower rpm to reduce noise which can equate to more air than a quiet fan with equal or less noise...
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post #3 of 19
Thread Starter 
i guess your right, but it's a tough one... what's your opinion on the ultra kaze? to loud? or no?
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post #4 of 19
The scythe adjust quite nicely via a fan controller or software...at 1k rpm it is virtually inaudible. But the cooling headroom is still there if you need it
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post #5 of 19
I would always recommend a fan controller after experiencing the difference it makes first hand. If you get a PWM fan controller, you'll be set with not having to mess with fan speed to go from quiet to loud when needed... Just set a fan speed curve in your mobo's software or even bios, and boom, no more loud fans unless you're doing something intense, even for 3k rpm fans....
post #6 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by trulsrohk View Post
The scythe adjust quite nicely via a fan controller or software...at 1k rpm it is virtually inaudible. But the cooling headroom is still there if you need it
+1

Exactly... however the CM fan has smexy blue LEDs, personally I'd go with the Scythe's and run them at reduced rpm I mean do you really need 133CFM from a case fan all the time?
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post #7 of 19
That tester clearly has a very quiet ambient volume in the testing environment. I don't doubt the Ultra Kaze is a loud mother, but the low ambient noise on that video makes it sound like a leaf blower.

At the very least, we can see that it starts up with only 3V. That makes a great case for undervolting the hell out of it.
    
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post #8 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ()ut[@st View Post
CFM is everything... the more air you can move the better the thermal dissipation, having said that a compromise can be achieved by getting high CFM fans and running them at lower rpm to reduce noise which can equate to more air than a quiet fan with equal or less noise...
Not exactly, but in a more practical application, yes...

Static pressure is also a topic to be mentioned, a fan with higher CFM rating vs lower SP(these concepts are inversely related) will be able to push greater amounts of air as long objects are not restricting its FOV. Finding a correct equilibrium is important for choosing fans, especially for watercooled setups.

Also, I faintly remember from modern physics(overpriced hard as hell course), that once CFM-vector velocities are so great, atmosphere(liquid nature of air as a volume) will lose its capacity to lose/gain heat through convection. But thats not an issue unless you're an F18 engineer for Lockheed Martin...


EDIT: Go Kazes w/ a fan controller, stock molex is @5V. Ultimate airflow w/ control LOL
Edited by Blindrage606 - 4/22/11 at 9:54pm
 
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post #9 of 19
Depends on heat load and radiator size. You can get the same thing with twice the rad size and half the rpm etc. This is where water colling really has an advatange of air. With a quad rad on a cpu only loop, I can get exceptionally low 3C water air deltas using slow speed yates so higher speed fans wouldn't help much.

But if you were only running a triple rad with a bunch more heat then the difference could be worth 5C. All depends on the rad size and heat load.

IMO UK3s are LOUD! But I'm picky about noise, I don't even let my slow speed yates run full speed. I use a sunbeam rheosmart to convert PWM signal to analog voltage control which dials my fans down/up automatically based on temps. 900RPM is what I run on idle...

Unfortunately, UK3s tick when undervolted so a controller is not the cure all either. All 38mm fans are pretty ticky undervolted including san aces, so there is no perfect do it all fan.
Edited by Martinm210 - 4/23/11 at 8:11am
    
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post #10 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
IMO UK3s are LOUD! But I'm picky about noise, I don't even let my slow speed yates run full speed. I use a sunbeam rheosmart to convert PWM signal to analog voltage control which dials my fans down/up automatically based on temps. 900RPM is what I run on idle...

Unfortunately, UK3s tick when undervolted so a controller is not the cure all either. All 38mm fans are pretty ticky undervolted including san aces, so there is no perfect do it all fan.
I ended up getting the Rheosmart 6 as well, and it's definitely one of the best purchases I could have made.

About the 38mm fans undervolted, for what it's worth, I bought two Panaflo FBA12G12M fans, and undervolting them with the fan controller leads to no ticks at all. It could be because they're already such low RPM (2100 max) fans that they just stop working below 40%, which is where a higher RPM fan might tick, however I was terrified about ticking after watching your fantastic videos, but fortunately no such luck with these fans.
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