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Watercooling My Sig (advice)

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Hi,
I want to get watercooling for my rig. (Normally I'm getting the money soon)

I want to start off with the EK H30 360 HF kit and some extra stuff for eye candy...
this would be the CPU loop to start off with...
When I get the rest of my budget: This

I'm going to mod the phantom to make it fit...


Now the questions:
1) The fittings and barbs:
I've seen some nice rigs with barbed fittings and no hose clambs...
Is this safe? (leaks?) and which tubing should I use ( I took some that's a bit tighter)
2) The Blocks:
They are plexi , I can add 3mm led's to them , right?
3) Is everything compatible?
4)I've been doing some reading about the pump and heard it's a good one..., is it
5)I do have enough rad for the 2 GPU's, right? And do I have enough to add a M4E full cover as wel?
6)Color scheme:
Should I use black barbs and red anti-kniking smartcoils?
Of Should I use Red barbs and Black Anti-kninking smartcoils?
7) Which way should I orientate the airflow? ( see picture )

The Green loop is for the CPU
The Purple loop is for the Full Loop
About the top rad: Going to Push/pull if it fits...


Thx in advance,

Grtz
xioros

Edited by xioros - 4/24/11 at 9:27am
   
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post #2 of 5
Looks nice!

1) If you use 7/16" ID Tubing on 1/2" Barbs you won't need hose clamps.

2) Some blocks have holes for 3mm, others have 5mm holes. You'll just have to read up on the blocks before you order the LEDs.

3)Almost all watercooling components are compatible through the standard G 1/4 thread.

4) The DCP 4.0 is a good pump for sure. It will easily handle your loop without issue.

5) You have enough rad for your GPUs/CPU, but I would not add a motherboard block. Not because of the extra heat (as motherboards add <50W) but because of the added restriction. If you added a motherboard block it would easily double the amount of restriction in your loop, and your pump would not be powerful enough.

6) No idea on color scheme, that's 100% up to you.

7) I would orient the top radiator as exhaust, the bottom radiator as exhaust and have the front and rear fans as intake. If you have the bottom radiator as intake it will heat up the air and make the top radiator less effective.
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post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by charliehorse55 View Post
Looks nice!

1) If you use 7/16" ID Tubing on 1/2" Barbs you won't need hose clamps.

2) Some blocks have holes for 3mm, others have 5mm holes. You'll just have to read up on the blocks before you order the LEDs.

3)Almost all watercooling components are compatible through the standard G 1/4 thread.

4) The DCP 4.0 is a good pump for sure. It will easily handle your loop without issue.

5) You have enough rad for your GPUs/CPU, but I would not add a motherboard block. Not because of the extra heat (as motherboards add <50W) but because of the added restriction. If you added a motherboard block it would easily double the amount of restriction in your loop, and your pump would not be powerful enough.

6) No idea on color scheme, that's 100% up to you.

7) I would orient the top radiator as exhaust, the bottom radiator as exhaust and have the front and rear fans as intake. If you have the bottom radiator as intake it will heat up the air and make the top radiator less effective.
Very usefull comment , I would add 2 rep if I could
I'll do some reseach on the blocks and will post a build log here when I have parts at home

For the airflow:
I don't know if I'm going to be able to mount the back fan , I hope so
I have 2 120mm intake side panel fans and 1 front 140mm intake...
I will have a negative pressure inside the case, is this a problem?
Grtz
xioros
   
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post #4 of 5
You will have positive pressure because when a fan is pushing through the radiator it only pushes about 1/2 of it's airflow. Effectively you have 2x120mm fans exhausting and 3 fans intaking. No problem at all. Positive pressure is good because it keeps dust out of the case.
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post #5 of 5
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by charliehorse55 View Post
You will have positive pressure because when a fan is pushing through the radiator it only pushes about 1/2 of it's airflow. Effectively you have 2x120mm fans exhausting and 3 fans intaking. No problem at all. Positive pressure is good because it keeps dust out of the case.
Usefull information , Thx rep+
   
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The Singularity
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Core i7 4790K @4GHz with stock cooler ASUS Maximus VI Gene GTX 1080 Ti G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB 1600 MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOSMonitor
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Dell U2715H Corsair AX860 with terrible MDPC-x sleeving job Corsair 350D 
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Undecided: Coffee Lake 6c? Undecided Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 16 GB high-speed DDR4 
Hard DriveCoolingMonitorMonitor
1TB Samsung 960 EVO NVMe Silent custom liquid cooling Dell U3415W Dell U2715H 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair K70 Cherry MX Red Corsair AX860 /w custom length MDPC-x cables CaseLabs SMA8 Mionix Naos 7000 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
[Intel] Core i5 2500K [ASUS] Maximus IV Extreme [Gainward] GeForce GTX 560 Ti Phantom 2 GB [Gainward] GeForce GTX 560 Ti Phantom 2 GB 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
[G.Skill] Ripjaws-X [Corsair] Force Series 3 120GB [Samsung] F3 [Asus] DRW 24B3LT 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
[Corsair] H100 [Gainward] Phantom [Custom] Red Cooling [Microsoft] Windows 7 Ultimate 
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[Acer] 3x S221HQ EyeFinity [Logitech] G110 [Corsair] AX1200 [NZXT] Phantom Singularity mod by Xioros 
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