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800d Re-Build Log

post #1 of 49
Thread Starter 
My 800d..

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Scroll down for the build log


[1st Update]

So I was looking at my veryyy boring 800d. My temps were 'ok' with simple air cooling and a H50, but...

[[I]PS. I took these pics with my iPhone in horrible lightings..so..[/I]]

10977409.jpg

Also, I have been using the Sabertooth X58 with its notorious NB temps and I want to try and cool it down a bit.

img0102nt.jpg

This board doesn't get a lot of attention from water cooling companies, but I really enjoy it. It normally gets great reviews (except for one issue with the network chipset).

So here's my simple built. Very simple..

img0109x.jpg

-EK Multioption RES X2 - 250 Basic
-Danger Den DD-CPX Pro Pump
-EK Supreme HF Universal CPU block
-Koolance VID-AR697 GPU block
-XSPC RX360 Rad
-(2) Koolance MVR-40 Voltage Regulator blocks
-(2) Koolance 84mm MVR Heat Transfer plates
-Termaltake 120&140mm TurboFans
-Bitspower compression fittings

..and some more odd ball fittings and screws

Step 1: NB and Mosfet

img0111pv.jpg

This is a fairly rare thing to see. This board is almost impossible to find info on when it comes to water cooling. But I have to say, this took about 10 minutes max to pull these off.

Step 2: NB, Mosfet, and CPU blocks

img0115f.jpg

I decided to do the VRs first, you know, because they would be the easiest. Ummm...Hint to Koolance: Do NOT thread your holes at the right size and then nickel plate next. Nearly no screw fit right and everything was a hassle to get on. I will say the NB cooler was incredibly easy tho.

Also, if your going to use 1/2" compression fittings, be prepared for a good fight! These blocks like barbs!

The EK CPU block went on perfectly and easy next.

Step 3: GPU and working my angles

img0125wz.jpg

Now I will give Koolance this..the 697 block was super fast and easy. I was going to take a few shots of installing it, but I was done in about 5 minutes or so. I also used the original back plate and tension bracket. Everything just fit perfect.

The turns were almost impossible without kinks. There is only (1) and it's from CPU out. It's about a 1/8" kink making my 1/2" turn into 3/8" for that short turn. Nothing I could do there and even with more fittings, it would end up being 3/8" or less, so...

Step 4: Onto the case

img0127puu.jpg

This is why I love this case! Throw the fans on the Rad and stick it on the top of the case. Here I am just trying to figure out the position of the pump vs. the Res. This pump stands kind of tall and I got a Res a bit too tall for this combo.

I also threw in my Danger Den T-Fitting. I really love these things. I am not a big fan of acrylic ones and these little blocks just fit anywhere. A word of caution tho: get some tweezers and clean it out. They thread it perfectly, they just don't QC the inside and it has tons of trash in there.

Step 5: Whoops

img0130ja.jpg

At this point I was really just a robot. I didn't really even think of taking pics at all. I had it all hooked up and didn't see any immediate leaks. Grabbed my trusty paperclip and got the PSU ready, annnnnd..

When I was filling the Res (kind of awkwardly because I was using the top inlet as a outlet to the Rad) I kept looking at the flow and something didn't seem right. I had the pump trying to pull the coolant through instead of pushing it (aka bad planning).

Now, this can work but it will be a 'issue' to prime. So I tried and tried and tried. So...

Step 6: Re-work a few things

img0133x.jpg

Only took a few minutes (2 hours lol) and I came up with this. I moved the pump and didn't have to change the flow at all. Flow:

Res -> T-Fitting (drain tube) -> Pump -> Rad -> CPU -> Mosfet -> Mosfet -> NB -> GPU -> Res

A fairly easy loop. The hardest part was just working the pump/res setup. Also a headsup..The EK Res 250 will not like a compression fitting on the bottom front. You can see the o-ring from the side and it will not make a good seal. Either use a barb or a 45/90.

Step 7: Stealth

I got bored waiting around on the leak test so I went ahead and did my BR stealth.

img0134o.jpg
(installed)

I knew I wanted to reposition the eject button, but I wasn't sure exactly where. So I popped down the front IO panel and thought of doing something creative. But I decided to be lazy.

I never use the reset button. If it locks up I always do a power cycle. So I used that. I opened the drive and just added a leg to the bottom of the board to a two pin connector. I ran it to the back of the drive and mounted it beside the sata port. I used the reset switch original connector and just plugged it in.

img0142zfr.jpg

I used the original cover plate but had to do some mods there. You have to cut off the sides and top/bottom. See below

img0138qi.jpg

img0137td.jpg

But all in all a fairly simple stealth. I might change it later, but for now it works great. I do need to repaint the drive tho. The Krylon indoor/outdoor matte black just chipped right off when I installed the drive.

But to more important matters..

As of right now this is my final result..

img0146sn.jpg

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I will post what I have left to do in a bit..

[Massive Update 2]

So...the ASUS board was doing really good but I wanted to give another board a try.

I bought a EVGA FTW3 a couple of months ago and have really been wanting to see what it has.

EVGA-X58-FTW3-Motherboard.jpg

So I tried it out with just the factory heatsinks and watched the temps. The NB and VR temps were worse than the Sabertooth! Also, overclocking the sabertooth was fairly simple. If I didn't have all my settings perfect, it would simply fail Prime or not boot.

The FTW3 likes to throw blue screens. So once I figured out EVGAs more 'precise' overclocking, I've been pushing it a bit. I am not sure which way I will go in the end. Here's my Pro/Con..

ASUS Sabertooth X58

Pro-
Solid Board
Super Easy OC'n
"3" support (which I mostly don't use yet)
Simplistic 'old school' layout and features
Benchmarks very well
Great onboard audio
Lower volts on OCn

Con-
Hard to find water cooling blocks!!!
High Temps (NB and VR)
NO eye candy (very boring board)
No graphical BIOS
Horrible Ethernet (maxes out at 750Mbps)
Bad software (ie. PC Probe!?!?)
Finicky Raid
Push pins on the VR, NB, and SB (considering the 'TUF' aspect this is odd)
Simplistic 'old school' layout and features

I would say..if you want a awesome OCn board and are kind of new to it, get this board. It actually does very well, even though its not promoted as a OCn board. But most reviewers say it does very well and I agree totally!

But if you want a board that will keep you interested and has some better options, lets look at this...

EVGA FTW3

Pro-
Beautiful board smile.gif
Built very well (with screws! on the VR, NB, and SB heatsinks)
"3" support (which I mostly don't use yet)
RAID is incredibly stable
Ethernet is great (with no lags across my network)
Easy to find water blocks (a lot of EVGA water blocks are interchangeable)
..more and more and more

Con-
VR and NB temps are high
OCn without water might be problematic at a lower OC (temps)
CPU sits very high on the board (problem if air cooling with a large heatsink)
Grey and black color scheme is sort of odd (black and red would be nicer)
LEDs that stay on all the time (blue and yellow power LEDs that never turn off)
BIOS doesn't have a graphical display
Updating BIOS is sort of 'old school'
PCIe x1 is unusable if using a dual slot video card
USB headers are in a insane place
More volts to OC versus the ASUS sabertooth (I'll explain lower down)

Even though I was very critical of the EVGA board (lots of cons), I think I will stick with it for a while. Overall it seems to be a very good board for water cooling. I just would not want to have to air cool it smile.gif

photo1ik.jpg

photovd.jpg

I am going to do my OCn experience in a bit...

But what do you guys think? EVGA vs ASUS...water cooling/OCn/looks..all in all, your favorite..

[Another update]

So I have been thinking of running my tubing behind the case. I am using 3/4 OD tubing and have been worried that it was too much. But I was tired of seeing the pump and the drain tube. Also, I knew it was going to be a challenge to send the tubes through with this 240mm RES.

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But...I think it worked fairly well. It took a while to line everything up but it worked pretty smoothly. I just had to get a few 90s and a few slim compression fittings.

Also, I was using Fluid XP+ Nano before and quickly drained my system (about 3 days later). The nano was clotting?!?! When I drained it, clumps of the coolant had separated and was choking my lines. It started to look like cholesterol or something.

I ran distilled and PT nuke for a few weeks and just flushed my system. But my tubing was already destroyed. It looked milky and looked like it was a year old (hazy). So I had to replace every piece of tubing in my system.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzw.jpg

On the back side, my wire management had to be moved around a lot. I still have a ways to go there. I also want to get rid of that extension 24 pin at some point. But most of it worked out easily.

The tubing DOES NOT pinch anywhere. But just in case I used a bit of anti-kink but I really don't think I needed too. I was going to use black tygon, but I wanted to see the coolant and see if any air bubbles would get caught up in the turns. But it didn't.

The pump is now in the bottom hard drive bay. I had to cut a pass through on the side of the cage for the intake. It is sitting on a foam pad I cut and is basically held in place securly just by the tight fit. I have a hard drive directly above it but I can't feel any vibration at all.

I also used a "T" for the drain port. The fill port on the top works 'ok'..just it a little hard to fill that size RES because there is no where for air to escape and bubbles back a bit. But I still have great flow and my temps are actually 2C lower. I have to admit, this new fluid is actually doing a tad better than distilled water (Fluid XP EXT..non UV). It is not any thicker than water (that I can feel) and is a dream to bleed.

Next update I will be pulling out the cold cathodes and putting in something new. I have not been impressed at all with these and honestly never cut them on (orange tint). Either I am going with some non-invertless cathodes (no more blue boxes..yay) or LED. I am leaning towards LEDs. Which do you suggest???

Quick Update..

I went from cathodes to LEDs biggrin.gif

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A simple switch installed on the back..

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A quick and easy LED mod to the back of the ram cooler. This one isn't switched, but just gives a subtle glow when the rest are turned off.

uuuuuuuuuu1.jpg

..Sorry for the bad pics. When i'm done, I am going to take some deserving shots..still have a ways to go tho tongue.gif

[Decently Large Update]

First of all..the thermaltake fans were dying out after only 6 months. Whining and starting really slow. So it's time for something else.

I went with the shark (red) 140mm and 120mm.

fans1k.jpg
fans2.jpg

Immediately I can feel a difference in air flow! But also noise (something I will look at in a bit)

Next I was either going to put a voltage regulator block or something else..I went with something else.

Memory stripped..
mem1z.jpg
New Bitspower blocks on..
mem2s.jpg
Memory back in..
mem3r.jpg

Now next was the push. I have been wanting to put my D5 in and change the flow. So all in one push here's the new pump, loop, fans, memory block, and LED changes..

pumpmem.jpg

As you can see..The pump is out of the bottom (with a quick LED mod), LEDs behind the resi, and the memory block is in (and crooked..lol). Yes Yes I know, a memory block is just vanity but hey..whatever lol

Next was just filling and leak testing..5 hours, no leaks, and crazy flow!! I really like my prior pump for being so quiet but the D5 is a workhorse!

fillug.jpg

Next is the back. Just a quick tidy up and you can see how the back tubing is way less and very simple (still with drain and fill tubes).

backqt.jpg

I was still leak testing in this pic so somethings were still out of place (24 pin jumper, pump wires, and fan controller). Also, don't forget that this a working mans computer. Even though I sleeved most of everything, this is about as tidy as it's ever going to get back there wink.gif

So a fairly complete inside, but I really wanted to work on this door..

window1q.jpg

Need airflow through the HD cage. Also, it pulls so much from the bottom that no air moves into the top of the case. So here's the fix..

window2.jpg

window3.jpg

I am going to duplicate it on the back also. I think it really adds something to the side (especially with these fans).

So for the fans..

The top 3 are on 12 volts (can barely hear them)
The side 2 and rear are on 7 volts (whisper quiet)
The bottom 140mm is on 12 for maximum flow (can't really hear it)

The entire case is a tad louder but way better.

PS> With reversing the loop to push up, temps have decreased by 1 degree to +1C vs +2C and any temp spikes fall extremely fast.

And YES, I know I have all of the covers off (lol). I always mean to put them back and never do..

lastdk.jpg

Upcoming mods:

Finally finish the stealth drive (make it look good anyway, been working awesome so far)
Find a way to light my resi so it's just clean looking (too bright now)
Put a panel over the lower compartment (at the door)

I don't think that I will ever make it a dual loop tho. I don't need another GPU and I am getting perfect temps now.

After running for a while (3 hours with WMC playing netflix on the 47", photoshop resizing pics and basic browsing on the 22"..

temp1m.jpg
temp2x.jpg

~ +1C on thermal and CPU
The GPU is normally 33C and is now 31C
My core temps are 29C with CPU at 4.00 Ghz

I am going to tweak my flow a bit and see what I can get the noise down to later. But it's really not that loud.
Edited by lees800 - 12/11/11 at 4:41pm
My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 950 OC 4.20 EVGA FTW3 Radeon 6950 crossfire 12Gb Patriot Sector7 DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
2 80Gb Intel SSD Raid0, 2Tb Cavier Green, 1Tb Blk HP BR/DVD-R/RW Custom EK and Bitspower  Windows 7 x64 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" Samsung Syncmaster 1ms P2770FH, HP w2207h  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000, Razer Nostromo Cooler Master 1200W Corsair 800d Obsidian 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G700 Ultra 15x10 Logitech Z623 THX 
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My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 950 OC 4.20 EVGA FTW3 Radeon 6950 crossfire 12Gb Patriot Sector7 DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
2 80Gb Intel SSD Raid0, 2Tb Cavier Green, 1Tb Blk HP BR/DVD-R/RW Custom EK and Bitspower  Windows 7 x64 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" Samsung Syncmaster 1ms P2770FH, HP w2207h  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000, Razer Nostromo Cooler Master 1200W Corsair 800d Obsidian 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G700 Ultra 15x10 Logitech Z623 THX 
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post #2 of 49
sexy. Subbed for the sexy.
post #3 of 49
Thread Starter 
Ambient: 21C

BEFORE:
Idle:
CPU -> 35C (14D)
MB -> 34C (13D)
NB -> 52C (31D)
GPU -> 41C (20D)

Load:
CPU -> 62C (41D)
MB -> 38C (17D)
NB -> 59C (38D)
GPU -> 52C (31D)

AFTER
Idle:
CPU -> 29C (8D)
MB -> 31C (10D)
NB -> 31C (10D)
GPU -> 29C (8D)

Load:
CPU -> 48C (27D)
MB -> 36C (15D)
NB -> 38C (17D)
GPU -> 37C (16D)

The idle CPU temps aren't really that far apart but when on PRIME, the top end is way better.

I watch the NB and MB temps basically match each other now. At times the NB is actually cooler than the MB. So I am wondering what it will be like when I flip the back 140mm fan as a intake and get some cool air inside the case.

But so far, overall, with a simply dirty single loop and single rad..these temps are fairly good. But when I put in the second rad....
My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 950 OC 4.20 EVGA FTW3 Radeon 6950 crossfire 12Gb Patriot Sector7 DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
2 80Gb Intel SSD Raid0, 2Tb Cavier Green, 1Tb Blk HP BR/DVD-R/RW Custom EK and Bitspower  Windows 7 x64 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" Samsung Syncmaster 1ms P2770FH, HP w2207h  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000, Razer Nostromo Cooler Master 1200W Corsair 800d Obsidian 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G700 Ultra 15x10 Logitech Z623 THX 
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My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 950 OC 4.20 EVGA FTW3 Radeon 6950 crossfire 12Gb Patriot Sector7 DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
2 80Gb Intel SSD Raid0, 2Tb Cavier Green, 1Tb Blk HP BR/DVD-R/RW Custom EK and Bitspower  Windows 7 x64 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" Samsung Syncmaster 1ms P2770FH, HP w2207h  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000, Razer Nostromo Cooler Master 1200W Corsair 800d Obsidian 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G700 Ultra 15x10 Logitech Z623 THX 
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post #4 of 49
I love the idea with the dvd drive, I might have to do that with mine at some point.
Cerberus
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 750 @ 4 Ghz Gigabyte P55-UD3R Gainward GTX 570 Phantom Corsair Vengence 8Gb @ 1600mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
WD Caviar Black 1.0 TB,1Tb green & WD 500Gb System Asus DVD burner 2 x XSPC RX 360 Rads Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer X233H 23 Inch Ducky Shine MX Browns Blue LED Enermax Revolution 85+ 1250W CaseLabs M8 
MouseMouse Pad
Steelseries Sensei  Razer Goliathus Fragged Edition Speed 
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Cerberus
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 750 @ 4 Ghz Gigabyte P55-UD3R Gainward GTX 570 Phantom Corsair Vengence 8Gb @ 1600mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
WD Caviar Black 1.0 TB,1Tb green & WD 500Gb System Asus DVD burner 2 x XSPC RX 360 Rads Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Acer X233H 23 Inch Ducky Shine MX Browns Blue LED Enermax Revolution 85+ 1250W CaseLabs M8 
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post #5 of 49
Very nice.
post #6 of 49
Nice job... If I had one suggestion to polish it off it would be to spray the front of the actual DVD drive black, so when it opens you cannot see any of the vanilla color.... I noticed you said you weren't done, so maybe that is on your list already anyways
post #7 of 49
Looks nice!

I really like the black/red color scheme.
Labor of Love
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2600k @ 5.0 GHz/1.42v ASUS P8P67 Pro MSI GTX 670 OC 20 GB/1600/7-7-7-24 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
120GB Vertex SSD Western Digital 1TB None! Ubuntu 12.04/Win8/OSX 10.8.2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" 1440p X-Star OCN Mechanical - MX Browns Seasonic X-560 800D w/RX480 top mounted 
Mouse
Logitech USB Generic 
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Labor of Love
(14 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2600k @ 5.0 GHz/1.42v ASUS P8P67 Pro MSI GTX 670 OC 20 GB/1600/7-7-7-24 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOS
120GB Vertex SSD Western Digital 1TB None! Ubuntu 12.04/Win8/OSX 10.8.2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" 1440p X-Star OCN Mechanical - MX Browns Seasonic X-560 800D w/RX480 top mounted 
Mouse
Logitech USB Generic 
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post #8 of 49
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmoney View Post
Nice job... If I had one suggestion to polish it off it would be to spray the front of the actual DVD drive black, so when it opens you cannot see any of the vanilla color.... I noticed you said you weren't done, so maybe that is on your list already anyways
This is def something I want to do! The stealth looks ok until you open it
My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 950 OC 4.20 EVGA FTW3 Radeon 6950 crossfire 12Gb Patriot Sector7 DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
2 80Gb Intel SSD Raid0, 2Tb Cavier Green, 1Tb Blk HP BR/DVD-R/RW Custom EK and Bitspower  Windows 7 x64 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" Samsung Syncmaster 1ms P2770FH, HP w2207h  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000, Razer Nostromo Cooler Master 1200W Corsair 800d Obsidian 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G700 Ultra 15x10 Logitech Z623 THX 
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My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 950 OC 4.20 EVGA FTW3 Radeon 6950 crossfire 12Gb Patriot Sector7 DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
2 80Gb Intel SSD Raid0, 2Tb Cavier Green, 1Tb Blk HP BR/DVD-R/RW Custom EK and Bitspower  Windows 7 x64 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" Samsung Syncmaster 1ms P2770FH, HP w2207h  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000, Razer Nostromo Cooler Master 1200W Corsair 800d Obsidian 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G700 Ultra 15x10 Logitech Z623 THX 
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post #9 of 49
Thread Starter 
I reversed the rear 140mm fan to intake.

This case is love/hate. I really love the room and how it is chambered inside but really hate the air flow.

But when I reversed the rear fan when it was air cooled, I saw a significant decrease in temps. Now that its water cooled, it went up 2C. I dunno.

Plus, these fans look great...until you reverse them. Thermaltake needs to quit putting those ugly big yellow stickers on the back of their fans.

I think I am going to have to go ahead and work on push/pull on the top. Just no idea how with the space...unless I use a exterior shroud.

Ideas?
My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 950 OC 4.20 EVGA FTW3 Radeon 6950 crossfire 12Gb Patriot Sector7 DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
2 80Gb Intel SSD Raid0, 2Tb Cavier Green, 1Tb Blk HP BR/DVD-R/RW Custom EK and Bitspower  Windows 7 x64 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" Samsung Syncmaster 1ms P2770FH, HP w2207h  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000, Razer Nostromo Cooler Master 1200W Corsair 800d Obsidian 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G700 Ultra 15x10 Logitech Z623 THX 
  hide details  
Reply
My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 950 OC 4.20 EVGA FTW3 Radeon 6950 crossfire 12Gb Patriot Sector7 DDR3 1600 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
2 80Gb Intel SSD Raid0, 2Tb Cavier Green, 1Tb Blk HP BR/DVD-R/RW Custom EK and Bitspower  Windows 7 x64 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
27" Samsung Syncmaster 1ms P2770FH, HP w2207h  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000, Razer Nostromo Cooler Master 1200W Corsair 800d Obsidian 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Logitech G700 Ultra 15x10 Logitech Z623 THX 
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post #10 of 49
good build but that kink needs to go, its going to get worse over time because of the heat.
Humming Box
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I5 760 EVGA P55 Classified 200 MSI Twinfrozer GTX 980 12gb DDR3 GskillRipjaws 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Samsung 840 120gb +500x3 HDD 1 LG Super Multi windows 7 64 Ultimate LG W2361V 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair RC 850W Cooler Master ATCS 840 with window X7 
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Humming Box
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I5 760 EVGA P55 Classified 200 MSI Twinfrozer GTX 980 12gb DDR3 GskillRipjaws 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Samsung 840 120gb +500x3 HDD 1 LG Super Multi windows 7 64 Ultimate LG W2361V 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair RC 850W Cooler Master ATCS 840 with window X7 
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