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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToxM82 View Post

Can I mix Mayhems X1 UV Blue Concentrate with the following:

Mayhems Dye - 15ml Ocean Blue

Mayhems Dye - 15ml Clear UV Blue

and should I still use PT Nuke, if I end up mixing all three. (I am trying to get a specific color out of these that will be UV.
they'll work together just fine and pt nuke won't be necessary since the x1 concentrate has biocides in it
 
Discussion starter · #13,664 ·
Quick Update. Mayhems New Gloss UV White 16mm x 10mm Tubing Food Safe & Medical Grade demo (fast Photo on phone). Coming soon. Were are the only company in the world to use this type of none PVC based tubing and formula which was developed from the ground up in house at Mayhems for liquid cooled PCs.

The new tubing adherers to the new EU REACH standards and is fully working with ethylene glycol.





These are fast phone photos better ones will come later. Will be sold in 1 Meter, 3 Meter and 30 Meter bundles.

Has been tested on and is being tested on a 50/50 ethylene glycol mix and a standard X1 mix system.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

Quick Update. Mayhems New Gloss UV White 16mm x 10mm Tubing Food Safe & Medical Grade demo (fast Photo on phone). Coming soon. Were are the only company in the world to use this type of none PVC based tubing and formula which was developed from the ground up in house at Mayhems for liquid cooled PCs.

The new tubing adherers to the new EU REACH standards and is fully working with ethylene glycol.



These are fast phone photos better ones will come later. Will be sold in 1 Meter, 3 Meter and 30 Meter bundles.

Has been tested on and is being tested on a 50/50 ethylene glycol mix and a standard X1 mix system.
Nice work Mick, keep it up!
 
So I swapped over to mayhems ultra clear tubing (from XSPC colored and primochill clear). When doing that, I had to buy all new fittings because I previously had 7/16". Well I'm kind of bummed with the mayhems ultra clear tubing. Took it out of my loop after about a year, and it's colored just like the primochill clear tubing was.





The top piece was used for a couple seconds to drain the loop, and the other pieces were used for that year. Is this normal for it to change to a "yucky greenish/yellow?" I used mayhems pastel Ice white.
 
Hello guys.

I was looking for perfect green like this showed previous in this threat http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c4/350x700px-LL-c47bb444_mzZJt.jpeg . I have 2 liters of Mayhem pastel UV green, blue dye, non stain green dye, emerald green dye, Its everything i can grab in green color while friend was on vacation, because i live in Serbia and you cant find any color here. If Am right I need UV Yellow/green around 20-30 drops or i can make it with dyes I already have?
smile.gif


Thanks and sorry for my bad English I hope you understand.

:wave:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteezyTN View Post

So I swapped over to mayhems ultra clear tubing (from XSPC colored and primochill clear). When doing that, I had to buy all new fittings because I previously had 7/16". Well I'm kind of bummed with the mayhems ultra clear tubing. Took it out of my loop after about a year, and it's colored just like the primochill clear tubing was.





The top piece was used for a couple seconds to drain the loop, and the other pieces were used for that year. Is this normal for it to change to a "yucky greenish/yellow?" I used mayhems pastel Ice white.
Is it okay to reuse soft tubing? I will be draining out my yellow coolant, and adding in blue coolant.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ali13245 View Post

Are there any downsides to runnning to distilled water + non stain dye + PT Nuke CU?
I never used pt nuke before so I'm not really qualified to give you an accurate answer. I had test tubes filled with various mayhems coolants and the ones that only had distilled water and dye dried out.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlakai View Post

I never used pt nuke before so I'm not really qualified to give you an accurate answer. I had test tubes filled with various mayhems coolants and the ones that only had distilled water and dye dried out.
Besides drying out, will it clog up any of my blocks, and radiators?
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteezyTN View Post

So I swapped over to mayhems ultra clear tubing (from XSPC colored and primochill clear). When doing that, I had to buy all new fittings because I previously had 7/16". Well I'm kind of bummed with the mayhems ultra clear tubing. Took it out of my loop after about a year, and it's colored just like the primochill clear tubing was.





The top piece was used for a couple seconds to drain the loop, and the other pieces were used for that year. Is this normal for it to change to a "yucky greenish/yellow?" I used mayhems pastel Ice white.
That is exactly why I went to hard tubing. There isnt a clear soft tubing out there that wont change colors over time.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Interstate View Post

That is exactly why I went to hard tubing. There isnt a clear soft tubing out there that wont change colors over time.
I do have hard tubing. I just use the soft tubing in the bottom compartment of my SMA8.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteezyTN View Post

So I swapped over to mayhems ultra clear tubing (from XSPC colored and primochill clear). When doing that, I had to buy all new fittings because I previously had 7/16". Well I'm kind of bummed with the mayhems ultra clear tubing. Took it out of my loop after about a year, and it's colored just like the primochill clear tubing was.





The top piece was used for a couple seconds to drain the loop, and the other pieces were used for that year. Is this normal for it to change to a "yucky greenish/yellow?" I used mayhems pastel Ice white.
All soft tubing, no matter what make, WILL go cloudy after a length of time, the quality of the tubing determins how quickly it clouds. MasterKleer will take a few days, Mayhems a year.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCArch View Post

Got it! I'll take a look. Have a gun metal Caselabs BH2 coming next month, and am going to pack it full of EK goodies, which will all be nickel/plexi, so I'd love to show off a coolant to tie the build together
thumb.gif


Thanks for pointing me in the right direction +rep
Here are 2 build logs where he has two shades of gray in his loops.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1548802/build-log-grey-matter-caselabs-s5-with-a-look-of-s8/400_100

http://www.overclock.net/t/1521734/build-log-chessboard-sma8/0_100

These might help.
 
I followed the instructions for the blitz kit but I am worried with my results. When it came to part 2 I began searching this thread.

I started by doing a closed loop flush to try and re-circulate as much of part 2 as possible while following the instructions, I ran through about 2 gallons of distilled water and stopped the closed loop flush. I ran tap water through the multiple radiators for 10-20 minutes each, with variations of switching the entry and exit port. I was sure part 2 was gone from the naked eye, I ran a final distilled flush through the radiators and let them until I had time to start working again. When I picked up on the project, everything seemed fine. After full assembly of the full loop I filled the system with about 3L of distilled water, things looked great. I am trying Mayhems X1 clear, with the pumps off I poured some of the concentrate in my reservoir to see it separate itself from the water, after turning on the pump the reservoir went from see through clear water to a cloudy water which became a tad bit foamy. It settled down and I started playing with color dyes. The particles is some of the aurora booster which I am trying out.

I have some questions regarding my situation because I am hoping the issue is not related to part 2. Is what I see in the pictures below normal? Seems over time it has settled down a bit. Is this foam related to left over residue from part2? If so, why would I not see any foam at all with pure distilled water? Would the oily concentrate mixing with the water at a high flow rate cause this initial foaming or bubbling? I did follow instructions and spent a good amount of time flushing the radiators after completing instructions so I would like to try and figure out where the issue lies, I don't think I could handle leaving the radiators for hours under running water as this seemed a bit excessive. I mixed about ~25ML of part2 to almost half a gallon of water on the initial cleaning.



 
I had similar foam after using Blitz part 2 and that was after I have flashed it at least 5-6x 4L= do the math, over 20 L of DI water.

Blitz is great cleaner and now I use it annually to keep my system sparkle clean, but it needs to be totally gone out of your system and that means you need to run your pumps at full speed for at least 20-30 min each time before flashes, radiators will hold back more of the liquid than you realize and that means some of the blitz could have been still trapped there, especially because is so foamy.

I remember when blitz first came out and I used it to clean my huge single loop I had flashed it at least 6x 4 Liters of DI after blitzing, yet I still had some similar foam on the top of reservoir, but what you see should go away without harming your coolant, unless there is still good amount of Blitz in radiators.

Btw. That red is gorges.
 
Blitz Pro part 1 on a new EK Coolstream PE 360.



I am expecting my case from Parvum to ship any day now, and trying to get things ready to assemble. This being my first foray into liquid cooling, I was surprised to see the amount of particulate come out of the rad. I followed the directions exactly, so hopefully this gave it a good cleaning.

I have a question about the X1 concentrate. I grabbed some X1 Clear Concentrate and some X1 UV Green Concentrate. I also have some non-stain dye in blue, yellow, and green. I am going for a yellowish/green color, and not sure yet if I will use the clear + dye or the UV Green + dye. I'm thinking that the clear + dye will allow me to fine tune the color quite a bit easier than trying to alter the color of the UV Green. My question: Has anyone mixed the X1 Concentrate with Distilled, rather than de-ionized water? Are there any drawbacks to using distilled rather than de-ionized? Thanks for any insight folks!
 
Discussion starter · #13,678 ·
Mayhems welcome Bitspower into into our partnership along side EK and Swiftech, we seemingly are a growing force in the cooling world.
 
Hi guys,

I'm working on a new build, logs should kick off in a few days. I'm gonna go with a very nvidia green color of coolant, I've searched this thread and found a ltr of pastel mint green plus 25-30 drops of UV green/yellow dye do a pretty close job. But really I'm looking for an Aurora nvidia green. So, suggestions?

I'm thinking Mayhems yellow and blue dyes, Di water and some silver aurora booster?? Any thoughts? Has it been done?

J.
 
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