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Old 10-20-04   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickjames
great guide but i will still go with air or pre assembled water
thats is to much work for a 1st time builder such as myself
It's the same amount of work for less cost and substantially better performance.

^mfillpot, what do you mean by aspects? If you want a heater core that already has the appropriate barbs, the Danger Den varietal are the best. If you don't mind sweating the necessary barbs on yourself, the '86 Chevette or '77 Bonneville heater cores are generally accepted as the best (and will save you some money, if you don't mind the extra work involved).
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Old 10-20-04   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoAffinity
It's the same amount of work for less cost and substantially better performance.

^mfillpot, what do you mean by aspects? If you want a heater core that already has the appropriate barbs, the Danger Den varietal are the best. If you don't mind sweating the necessary barbs on yourself, the '86 Chevette or '77 Bonneville heater cores are generally accepted as the best (and will save you some money, if you don't mind the extra work involved).
what I was referring to as aspects are forma factor, make, model and year. You had answered my question about which other cores to look for, would I be able to just get the cores from a junkyard and clean them for use in a PC?
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Old 10-20-04   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfillpot
what I was referring to as aspects are forma factor, make, model and year. You had answered my question about which other cores to look for, would I be able to just get the cores from a junkyard and clean them for use in a PC?
I wouldn't. They're only like $15 new....and how much less are you really going to get it for from the junkyard? It's worth the piece of mind (at least to me), getting a new one and knowing that a lone piece of debris isn't going to break lose from inside the used heater core at some point down the road, and clog your wc system...
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Old 10-20-04   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoAffinity
I wouldn't. They're only like $15 new....and how much less are you really going to get it for from the junkyard? It's worth the piece of mind (at least to me), getting a new one and knowing that a lone piece of debris isn't going to break lose from inside the used heater core at some point down the road, and clog your wc system...
You're no fun, I have to go to the junkyard for a few parts anyway, but now you tell me that I have to hit another place also....lol

That's ok, thank you for your assistance and information.
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Old 10-20-04   #15 (permalink)
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When looking at different models of heater cores, you want to look at:

Size: will it fit where I need it.
Hose barb sizes: If you use 1/2" tubing, 5/8" barbs are the biggest you really want to use. Some people heat up the end of the tubing and strech it around 3/4" barbs though, it's just more of a pain. And of course you can always replace the barbs.

Price: Obviously

Material: Steer away from aluminum heater cores. Aluminum reacts with copper and brass (eating away the aluminum). So it is best to get a copper/brass heater core. (unless of course you have an aluminum water block, then get an aluminum heater core, you freak).

That's all I can think of now.
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Old 10-20-04   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathONator
When looking at different models of heater cores, you want to look at:

Size: will it fit where I need it.
Hose barb sizes: If you use 1/2" tubing, 5/8" barbs are the biggest you really want to use. Some people heat up the end of the tubing and strech it around 3/4" barbs though, it's just more of a pain. And of course you can always replace the barbs.

Price: Obviously

Material: Steer away from aluminum heater cores. Aluminum reacts with copper and brass (eating away the aluminum). So it is best to get a copper/brass heater core. (unless of course you have an aluminum water block, then get an aluminum heater core, you freak).

That's all I can think of now.
If I have problems when I start setting this up I will let you know.
Now since I am picky about my finicky system, I am planning on getting an older case to set this up in and when it works I will transfer the hardware to the new case.

and again, thank you both.
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Old 10-20-04   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfillpot
You're no fun, I have to go to the junkyard for a few parts anyway, but now you tell me that I have to hit another place also....lol

That's ok, thank you for your assistance and information.
Hey man, it's your call...I just personally would rather spend the extra $5 and take the extra half hour to go by the auto store, rather than potentially having system failure due to using a part of unkown origin.
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Old 10-20-04   #18 (permalink)
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hey everyone,

wanted to know what is a good radiator, eith 3/8 or 1/2 inch.... wanted to know cuz im doin a custom one nd i wanna no whats a good one

thanks in advance, reps if you get a good response
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Old 10-20-04   #19 (permalink)
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Well, ultimately you want to coordinate it with the rest of your system. 1/2" OD will give you the best flow, so if you can, try and coordinate all blocks, the rad and any other barbs to all be 1/2" OD.
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CPU
P4-M 532 (3.06, SL7DT)
Motherboard
Abit IS7-E2
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Audigy 2 ZS
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TTGI Super Flower 550W
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Lian Li mobo tray
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Old 10-20-04   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoAffinity
Well, ultimately you want to coordinate it with the rest of your system. 1/2" OD will give you the best flow, so if you can, try and coordinate all blocks, the rad and any other barbs to all be 1/2" OD.
thanks noaffin, wanted to actually know also what rad is the best one for watercooling... 1/2" or 3/8, any responses would be appreciated
thanks
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But the man has the patience of a saint...
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