Martinm210

Since I was switching out my T line fitting and barb fittings out from 1/2" to 5/8" I decided I'd take a look inside my MCP655 pump to make sure it was all good and clean.

It was...but...

I checked out the impeller design and upon inspection I noticed the outlet was poorly casted. A sharp open bay to pipe is a significant exit loss, and not only that, there is also a portion that slightly extends into the pump.

**Off I go to the garage for my trusty dremel and drill motor***
A while later slightly boring out the outlet, and using my various dremel bits, I had a much smoother flowing outlet that looked like this:


And while I was at it, those barbs are awefully sharp too:


Better fix those...


Ahhh much better.

I did some flow tests using my trusty 5 gallon bucket and came up with the following:

Pump and 10' of 1/2ID tubing only
Before 3 gallons in 1 minute and 25 seconds = 2.12 gal/min
After 3 gallons in 1 minute and 6 seconds = 2.73 gal/min
A 28% improvement on pump + 10' tubing only.

Then for the real test, how my loop performs include D-Tek Fusion + MCW60 + MCR320 + MCR320 + T-line + about 8' of 7/16ID Tygon + 10' drainage tube for the test
Before 3 gallons in 2 minutes and 1 second = 1.49 gal/min
After 3 gallons in 1 minute and 50 seconds = 1.64 gal/min
A 10% improvement in a CPU + GPU + 2 rad loop, not bad!

Some of that might have been from upsizing the barb and t-fitting to 5/8", but I suspect most of it was the pump mod.

I knew all my wrenching and modding days with the dirtbike had some use in the computer somewhere

ira-k

Hey thats a good little increase there well worth doing...I can see WC'ing is for you there is always little things to tweak on thats why I love it so much...

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Martinm210

Thanks, I like this stuff and I was suprised it helped as much as it did...swiftech ought to fix this in their mold. And while their at it might as well increase the barb size to 5/8"..

ira-k

Yeah really...Did you find any larger rad and block barbs that you can use?

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DuckieHo

Write a letter to Laing who produces the pumps! I ay have to do this myself then.
http://www.lainginc.com/

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Martinm210

I did for the Rad and T line which are 3/8" NTP, but no go on the G1/4. I used 4 of these barbs on my rads:


Here is the new T fitting, gave a bit more room for the pump too.
Still bleeding in this shot.
[img]http://www.overclock.net/gallery/data/500/Ne***itting.jpg[/img]

There's probably some room for improvement in the blocks too in cleanin up the barb ends. Maybe slightly increasing three of the 4 holes on the middle plate of the Fuzion would help even flow out there. There's plenty of tinkering left to do.

It's a good thing I'm not using Fluid-XP..all that dumping and flushing would get expensive..

Martinm210

I should, maybe I can talk them into giving me a free pump for my idea..

ira-k

Yeah chamfering the barbs ends will help smooth out the flow...The only bad thing is with the G-1/4 fittings you are still going to be bottlenecked by them...I liked DD rads a lot better when they were still 9/16" but the crappy G-1/4 are becoming the standard I don't know why....

__________________
...***Beware all ye Men born of Woman, beware the Hemogoblins***...
**E8600 @ 5751Mhz ***OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery ***150 Opty @ 3242Mhz **

Apollo4g

Did you bore both barbs on the pump?
also did you do it all the way in or just the top part?

Martinm210

I bored them out all the way, not very much though, maybe 1/64" if that. I could probably bore it out more, but I didn't want to take too much away from the material strength. You could probably bore the entire end out and tap a 5/8" barb in there though

I've been checking out Langs site and they have all sorts of tops for these things.

I want the D5-38/720B top. Oh and their site says these things are good for 24V.
http://www.lainginc.com/pdf/D5_Vario.pdf

Where can I find a cheap 24V - 2 Amp power supply...looks like at 12V at setting 5...they're only turned half way up..lol!