Martinm210

Did the tedious testing today after buying a ball valve to control flow and setting up a plumb water column stand, I was off and running doing my first P/Q chart. Collected 16 data points just as a check to see if any one was way out of wack.

Here is my ported P/Q graph against several others that Alex graciously provided me, gotta love Petra's for being so involved in the community, thanks!

Anyhow, here is the graph. My first thought was...oh man, what did I screw up, that curve has a big wow in it...it doesn't compare well to the swiftech chart at all either.


I was darn near ready to scrap the whole test and start over, but I was being really carefull with a nice plub stand, multiple measurements, etc. So before I did that I figured I would go to laings site and look at their graphs again. Particularly their D5 brochure:
http://www.lainginc.com/pdf/LTI%20D5...-%206pages.pdf

I then sniped out the 1/2" barb chart and pasted it in. Ok that looks more realistic, I opened up the inlet and outlet, so actually lost strength when less than 1.2gpm, but gained really well after that. More importantly the Laing graphs also have a similar dip around 1gpm, my data is looking more plausible now.


Now on to the big barb comparison. I mean after all porting should probably be similar to a large barbed outlet right...YES it is...now I'm feeling much better about my results


So a question might be would this mod benefit real world loops.

So far I've tested out my GPU loop with MCW60,MCR320, 5/8" T-line, and 80" of 7/16" tubing and got 2.76 GPM, so it definately helps low restriction loops.

Now I'm curious about inlet/outlet nozzles. Is there a way to bulg the curve upward in the 1 to 3 GPM range, or is that an impeller thing?

FYI,
Here are those modifcation pics again:
Before:

After:


My question is...why is swiftechs chart so far off from Laing, mine looks much more like the Laing charts and I had to go to a 4th order polynomial equation just to match the roller coaster that it is...hmm:***:

I'd love to try a D5 impeller with a couple more blades, I bet that would be just the ticket to match water cooling needs.

Dryadsoul

Great work man.

I think Swiftech graphs just try to justify the basic Laing pump as their own product. Denial issue mayhaps.

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SharkerSK

Nice
Good idea , I will do it with mine ...

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CrazyJoe

Did you just use a good dremel bit for your mod ?

Looks great tho' !

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dk8100

Nice. Im gonna have to do that as soon as I buy one of those.

ira-k

Nice charting Martin.........Does the Laing D-5 have more blades on the impeller then the Swifty? I didn't know that...The inlet will change your flow pattern...The ringed inlet can be played with I don't know what you would need to do to it though....Grinding it down might give you more flow but I don't know how bad it would hurt head...Or just chamfering it should change flow pattern...The out-let looks good and clean....You might put an insert in the out-let barb to jack head up, that would be nice to have various sized inserts to play with the head...If I had a D-5 I would send it to you so you would have a comparison to a non-ported D-5...

EDIT: Oh never mind you were just saying you wanted to use a impeller with a couple more blades...I just woke up...

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Martinm210

Thanks, this was my first run at it, but I feel pretty good that the data is matching Laings charts and the modification puts is fairly close to the larger barb chart.

The D5 is still a more high flow/medium pressure pump vs. the DDCs with tops which are more high pressure lower flow which better matches the restrictions found in most watercooling. Unfortunately the new DDC 3.2's take away alot of the big pressure advatage that the DDC 2 brought us. The DDC3.2 still has slightly more head that even the modded D5 up to about 2GPM where the D5 finally starts to take the lead. So in general the moded D5 would produce more flow in a low restriction single block type loop, and the DDC whenever there is more restriction that that. Regardless they are both very close.

The mod was good in that it improved performace from the 1.2GPM point and beyond which is likely most water cooling systems except for the most extremely restrictive type. The inlet/outlet sizes/shape does change and improve things, but mostly on the flow rate side of things (low restriction), it seems to me pressure head is primarily a function of the impeller design. Looking at the D5 impeller, it's fairly open and would probably have a higher head pressure with anther blade, but that's beyond home mods.

The other thing I learned is that swiftech's chart seems to be very conservative, it's not shaped right and is over simplified like they took a few data points and cranked out a low order curve for it. In the end I'm going to disregard the Swiftech Curve and I'll duplicate the Laing D-38/810 curve for the variable D5 or MCP655 that we commonly know for water cooling. The D5 does have a higher maximum head than most people think. It's closer to 14' than the 11' stated in many specs.

I even found this old test Alex did from Petra's a while back where he also got 13.83' and wasn't sure why. I have 13.5' after the mod (and after setting up an accurate and plumb water column) which makes sense.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/.../t-110402.html

I think I'll try a couple of pump nozzles with some basic real world loop tests and see if anything smaller at the inlet/outlet or both makes a bump in the curve where we need it. If I find something I'll run another P/Q chart to see what it did better.

Anyhow that's all I found so far. And creating a P/Q curve for pumps is alot of work!!

froggy_newb

i have a question about the D5. does the water pump out from the side of the pump, or from the top?

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ira-k

This is just a thought Martin and the plastic on the pump housing may be to brittle to do it to anyway...If you can tap your inlet and outlet a little you could use some brass pipe plugs for reducers....The wouldn't have to be threaded to well just enough so water wont by-pass them and the pressure wont pop them out...Just drill the ID out to what ever you wanted it to be..Put them between a couple of pieces of 2x4 so you don't deform the threads any when you drill them out..Either shave down some pieces of hard wood dowel to jam in it to install and remove or just wedge a flat blade screwdriver in them..The brass would really be easy to work with when chamfering them...


^^^^The in-let is in the center and the out-let is on the side...

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CL3P20

Nice info! I have just been inspired to mod my D5..now! Its good to finally see some real world test setups and info on pressure, etc. To bad you cant measure the heat dump, from the pump too. Since you are lowering restriction in the pump head, it might effectively lower the back pressure on the impeller...maybe also affect temps too..decreasing them a little.

Great work! keep it up!

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