Originally Posted by CyberDruid

The first couple of times I fired up the pumps I got a quick jab of PSI on the gauge then nada. I kept diddling and filling until I got a solid 2.5 psi then fired up Black Knight and popped into BIOS ASAP. After boot PC Probe registered 19C (it is about 10C lower than Core Temp which won;t work in Vista 64bit))


Using a 110VAC CCL UV lamp for leak testing. That was not a leak but a spill when connecting the line to the Window Box. I used 1/2" barb to 3/4" hose ends (solid brass) and they are very handy if you need to part lines or whatever.


Wish I could fine a 0-5 PSI gauge...or even 0-10. But at
least I can tell in a heartbeat if there is an issue with the loop. At about $12 this is cheap insurance.



It's a very simple yet weatherprof set up. The aluminum seals the gap at the window and locks onto the lip and supports the unit at a nice angle when clamped to the sill by the window. I cut a stick to wedge the window tightly against the unit and locked that into position inside the house--this would also prevent anyone from breaking in.



The camera does not do it justice--but the UV lamp makes the "Rams Horn" tubing glow brilliantly outside





The db-1 pumps are supported by the tubing and grommets in the acrylic. I use stainless steel pinchclamps so it is very very secure and no chance of leaks.
I used 3 pin to molex adapters and taped them completely in 3M electrical tape to prevent any corrosion and routed a custom made female to female molex through split loom to the Silverstone DA 750 where it plugs directly to the PSU with a shemale molex.o..O

Db-1 pumps are 100% waterproof...you could run them submerged. The rad is copper and brass and painted in black oxide so no corrosion issue there and the Panaflo 86.5 CFM fan is completely under the acrylic shield and pushes air through the rad--so no chance of sucking rain into the fan. I love OUTDOOR COMPUTING!


I used a T-line and made sure it was long enough to be a lot higher than the highest point of the loop (the waterblock). The loop is filled with Dasani purified water and about 1/2 oz of tracerline Clear UV Blue. Filling was very safe and easy... I held the filport over a bowl in case of drips or burps and found that I could run the pumps with the filport open--which really aided bleeding the loop.

A single db-1 might have been up to the task--but due the length of the lines I wanted to use (in case I choose to relocate the PC) and the restrictive nature of the Stinger waterblock I chose two. I am very happy with the results.

The ambient continues to drop: now at 11.7C PC Probe shows 34C. Earlier today using the Monolith cooler with 21C ambient I was getting 54C load temps.

Those sorts of intake temps are usually found in a AC unit/rad rigs or perhaps in a chilled water loop. I have gained over 20C in headroom--which means I can crank the volts and see if I can get this rig to run a bit faster.

If you are lucky enough to be living in an area with low ambients like this you should definitely give it a try.

BTW my Wife LOVES this invention. She puts up with my Farm in the music room...but I know the noise of the Iwaki and 6 Panaflos does get on her nerves at times. This rig will allow you to run a virtually silent PC.

Originally Posted by hout17

OOH DX11 zomg I have to have the ground breaking new visuals lol.

Originally Posted by Brother Esau

Is this the Bonneville Heater Core at work?