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#1 (permalink) |
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Programmer
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A few days ago, I rearranged my loop by changing the position of the radiator. To do so, I had to drain my loop. When I filled it back up, I let it bleed overnight with the pump on low to get the big bubbles out. When I woke up the loop looked clear, so I turned the pump to high. I huge mass of bubbles came out of the radiator. I wacked it and a few more bubbles came out. I went to school and came back 8 hours later to find that There are still quite a few bubbles in my loop. In my previous set up it took 30 minutes to fully bleed. How long does it ususally take with a T-Line.
PS: When I looked at the block after draining my system. I saw 2 specs of black stuff between the pins. What could it of been. And f course I got rid of it |
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#2 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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If it helps any when I bleed mine I turn the pump up to push the bubbles out of the rad and then slow it down before they reach the t-line so they have a chance of going up the T instead of flying by, it takes a while to do this.
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#3 (permalink) | |||||||||
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WaterCooler
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I've never used a T, but I always turn my PC on it's side when I'm bleeding. That places everything at pretty much the same height, and the bubbles run right through the loop really fast.
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#5 (permalink) | |||||||||
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WaterCooler
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Duct tape
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#6 (permalink) | |||||||||||
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Habitual Tinkerer
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Put it on a little extension cord and then really rock your box from side to side and front to back, air likes hiding in the fittings and blocks..Take you rad loose if you can and shake it up to get all the air out of it...
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#7 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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New to Overclock.net
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Or if your using a Res, Fill it up more, So you dont suck in the bubbles.
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#8 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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took me a full day flipping around my radiator every hour or two to bleed out my 2nd loop (using a T-line). but the way the HC barbs happen to be there's a large pocket for air to settle of a big bubble is together so results may vary
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