francesthemutes

Alright, so I'm sick of high temps on my CPU so I'm looking for something a bit quieter and a lot cooler. I have the following lined up

Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Rad: Black Ice GTX 240
CPU block: Fuzion V2

Now, I'm having a tough time with tubing. What kind would be suitable? 1/2" but how much length?

Other things I'm looking for advice on

Res or T-Line? I don't quite know what a T-line is so I might need some help there. Aha. If res, what size?

Fans: What kind of fans would compliment this system? Should I do a pull, push or push/pull system?


Anything else I should consider? Thanks! (I have no doubt ira-k will come to my rescue :P)

ira-k

Hey Frances, Your ready to make the jump.....I think you'll be glad you did..

With the D-5 make sure you get the vario version...D-5 Vario

The 240 will handle the quad, but I would just go ahead and grab a 360, you cant beat rad surface area and they just aren't that much more $$ then a 240...

The GTX works well with 47+ cfm fans, I would go at least with a 86cfm Pana on any rad for good OC'ing temp's..86cfm Pana.These are what I use on my 480..115cfm Pana.

If you only have them on one side I'd go with a pull...

Heres some testing I did on my 480.Part-1-480 GTX-Temps W & W/O Shrouds..


Shrouds will help a lot..I used to custom make out of aluminum channel and all that..Anymore if I can find some old 120x38mm fans I jump on them quick and gut them for shrouds, they work great..

..How To: Make any Sized shroud in 2 minutes

..How To: Build A Performance Shroud

A res will bleed faster then a t-line, I like a bay res...

A t-line is fine to, it bleeds a little slower, but its cheaper and takes up less room.Just e=use a plastic T right before the pump inlet, put a foot to so of tubing on it in the up position and cap the open end...I like these..1/2" Brass Plug.Or this..Brass Fil-Port

Always have you res or fil-port right before the pump, its easier ot prime and bleed there, and in the case of a res it keeps a good supply of water going to the pump..

I like this tubing on 1/2" barbs, it fits the barbs a little tighter, is more compact and flows about as well as the full 1/2x3/4" does..7/16x5/8".

Or this for full size..1/2x3/4"..I'd just get 15-20" you'll use it believe me, and it will keep forever, I just put tape over the ends before I store it to keep dust and crud out...

But at least get 10"...

I'll leave you my cleaning and set-up PDF, be sure ot read the stickies up there, lots of good info..My coolant recipe and all that is in the PDF..

This is the base of it..Pentosin...Biocide...PT Nuke

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francesthemutes

Thanks ira! I did grab the variable version. =D Is the speed controller external? Like a Zalman fan-mate? If you know what I mean.

Well, I'm trying to keep noise levels down and looking at the Panaflo's they generate quite a bit of that.

As for the 360, I was just sticking with a 240 to save some space, money and keep the noise levels down with only 2-4 extra fans. After all, I am just cooling my CPU.

Now, I just need a shroud and a rad-box correct?

bmaverick

Actually, the speed control for the pump is in the back-plate as a little round pin with a slot.

As for the tubing length, first layout where the components will be and measure the distance between each. This should be the tightest and minimum lengths without much bends. Now add 30% length to each measured distance. Total up the the lengths and place your order.

ALWAYS, put a little more tubing in the cooling loop to allow assembly and dis-assembly of components. If you don't it will be a major pain to work with.

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ira-k

Looks like that would just about set you up..Use a couple of zip-ties on each barb or a worm drive clamp..You only need a rad-box if your going to hang it on the back of your case..I always try to keep my rad out in the cooler room ambient like that, it has to help temp's a little...RadBox

Be sure to seal your shroud to the rad, and the fans to your shroud, you want it all air-tight so none sucks in around it, you want all the air-flow to go through the rad...Cheap silicone fan silencers work pretty good, or what I do is buy a tube of clear silicone and use that...

For coolant I like this..Pentosin.With a couple of drops of this for a biocide.PT Nuke..I add a couple of other thinks to work as surfactants, or water wetters, they are in that PDF I left you...

If you have a Audi/VolksWagon dealership nearby you can get the Pentosin a lot cheaper there...Its just anti-freeze, the G11 is blue and the G12 is red..

If noise is a problem for you I would try to get a 360 rad for sure, the more surface area you have the easier it is, temp wise, to get by with lower cfm fans..Those Pana I linked can be put on a rheo and used at a lower speed...A 120x38mm fan has better static pressure and will scavenge air through a rad better...Or even just do a push-pull with the little 120x25mm would work...

The pump rheo is red and you'll see it on the back of your pump, #5 is the highest flow...You can drop it down to a 2-3 when your bleeding and it will bleed a little faster...

Be sure to leave you tubing a little over long to the bay res, if you use one, that way you can pull the res out far enough to fill it..

These are great for topping off a bay res...DD Fill Syringe...The coolant level will drop a little over time and those just make it so easy for a top off..When your bleeding with a bay res throw a thick phone book under the front of your case, that will keep coolant over the barbs in the back of it so it deosn't keep sucking air back into the loop...

Real good advise there, I usually measure with a piece of twine and cut it at least 2 barbs lengths longer, that way with the 7/16x5/8" tubing I can just cut it off and still be able to re-use that piece again if need be...

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francesthemutes

You totally just lost me there. I can't visualise what you mean by that. Damn. This seems like it's going to be a lot of work.

ira-k

HaHa......Its not as hard as it sounds...Where you shroud mets the rad put a little line of clear silicone there, that seals it up so it will be airtight, then where the fans meet the shroud put another little line of silicone..

See what I mean, its just sealing it all up so that the fans will only pull air through the rad, if its not sealed you can suck air in around the shroud gaps...Thats what it does, it seals any gaps..

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**Water Cooling Essential Threads** Overclock.net's Downloads Section** TEC Guide:Basic Principles of TEC's

**E8600 @ 5300Mhz **E7200 @ 4545 *9 **5000BE @ 3510*10**LE 1600 @ 3500*10**150 Opty @ 3242*12**

francesthemutes

I suppose once I put this whole thing together I'll see what you mean. But the way you're wording all of this, it makes me think the companies who designed this whole set up didn't think it through. Aha.

ira-k

HaHa....You'll see what I mean when you get it in front of you......You just seal up any little gaps with the silicone so that all the air is pulled through your rad instead of through any little open gaps...

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**Water Cooling Essential Threads** Overclock.net's Downloads Section** TEC Guide:Basic Principles of TEC's

**E8600 @ 5300Mhz **E7200 @ 4545 *9 **5000BE @ 3510*10**LE 1600 @ 3500*10**150 Opty @ 3242*12**

francesthemutes

I really want this shroud as it seems to come with everything (including a foam seal) but the problem is shipping costs. It's 15 bucks for 4-6 weeks shipping!!! I can't find it anywhere else that ships to Canada.