my 1st W/C loop - Overclock.net

TrueNoob · 07-20-08

would this be a good setup for my 1st W/C loop to now cool the cpu and later add a block to cool the NB of my sig rig.

Item Options Unit Price Qty. In Stock Cost
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir [remove]

* Re-Tap Top Port in 1/4'' BSPP : Yes (+ 3.00)
* Additional Barbs : 3 D-Tek High-Flow (+ 6.00)

$28.95 Yes $28.95
Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655 Inline 12V DC Pump [remove]

$84.99 Yes $84.99
1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing [remove]

$3.25 Yes $3.25
D-Tek FuZion v2 Quad Core Mid-Chamber Insert [remove]

$4.25 Yes $8.50
EK Supreme Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2" [remove]

* Add Acrylic Top : No

$64.99 Yes $64.99
120mm x 38mm Scythe DFS123812H-3000 "Ultra Kaze" Case Fan (133.6 CFM/45.9 dBA) [remove]

$10.99 Yes $21.98
HW Labs Black Ice GT Xtreme 480 [remove]

$144.95 Yes $144.95

Subtotal: $357.61
Total: $357.61

i am not using the EK SUpreme, i am using the DTek Fuzion v2, its just not in stock, i just have the Ek in for relevant price

afzsom · 07-20-08

You'll want three things. First, hose clamps (or zip ties if you have them) to secure the tubing around the barbs. Second, at least 15 feet of tubing, you can never have too much tubing if you like to play with your rig (or it's your first time, mistakes happen). Lastly, you will need a biocide and possibly an anti-corrosive to add to your loop.

You only need a couple drops of the biocide in your loop. Anti-corrosive should be mixed at a 10-1 or 11-1 ratio with your distilled water.

Other than that it looks like a great setup.

dr4gon · 07-20-08

That tubing is ridiculously expensive and not necessary. Get 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) masterkleer tubing to save some serious money. Get 10 to 15 feet for good measure.

And yeah don't forgot the hose clamps (very important) and PT nuke.

**ira-k** · 07-20-08

I'll leave you my set-up and cleaning PDF..Take your time setting up and clean your new parts well, leak test, leak test some more, then when your really sick of leak testing do it again...

TrueNoob · 07-20-08

cool thanks guys, why not the 1/2 tubing though? isnt it better flow, and how exactly do they charge for tubing in petras ?

zooterboy · 07-20-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrueNoob

cool thanks guys, why not the 1/2 tubing though? isnt it better flow, and how exactly do they charge for tubing in petras ?

1/2 inch is fine, but Tygon is way too expensive. They charge by the foot. That's where I got all my stuff--don't forget to order barbs though.

**ira-k** · 07-20-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrueNoob

cool thanks guys, why not the 1/2 tubing though? isnt it better flow, and how exactly do they charge for tubing in petras ?

The 7/16x5/8" will flow just about as well as the full 1/2", its more compact and easier to route around in your case, fits the barbs a lot tighter, so less chance of leaks, and a couple of other things...

...Plus its cheap and really good, if I had to pay the same price for Masterkleer or Tygon I would buy the Masterkleer..

But the fat 1/2x3/4" does look better i think, they have it in that size to if you just prefer it..1/2x3/4"..

TrueNoob · 07-20-08

k, which barbs are best?

zhylun · 07-21-08

I like the look of the D-Tek high flow barbs, but pretty much any of the plated brass barbs are going to be better than the plastic ones. Just make sure you're buying the right tap size.

dr4gon · 07-21-08

Quote:

Originally Posted by zhylun

I like the look of the D-Tek high flow barbs, but pretty much any of the plated brass barbs are going to be better than the plastic ones. Just make sure you're buying the right tap size.

Buy G1/4" and I would also recommend the d-tek's for their wide diameter and o-ring container or you could try the DD fat bodys (I personally run the dteks everywhere).

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my 1st W/C loop

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