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Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Cooling > Water Cooling | |
Water-cooling or TRUE w/Panaflo
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#11 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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PC Gamer
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go with water, bro, it's just plain better cooling.
__________________get at least a 220 radiator. a gtx 220 rad is good and cheap and it beats a PA rad with 1250rpm fans. a feser unit will beat a gtx, though, up to about 2000rpm. but we're only talking a couple degrees of water temperature depending on the heat load. a gtx 220 rad with a two 1500-2000rpm 120x38mm fans will cool that cpu very well. if you want less noise and more cooling potential, even just with a cpu, get a 360 rad with 1500rpm fans.
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#12 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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New to Overclock.net
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*thinks about attacking 2 or 3 to the bottom of my case to create a floating case mod* =P
__________________
"That was a joke, HA HA, fat chance!" "The Cake is a lie"
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#13 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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lol floating case huh.. that sure would be cool.
Well I'm going to give the TRUE a try. and if I don't like it. then I'll go to water and sell the true. TRUE's are very easy to sell. I can get a swifty GTZ, a swifty MCP665 and a drive bay single res all for $110. that or the true was my choices.
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H20 Loop: Swiftech Apogee GTZ, Feser TFC360 RAD w/ 3 Yate Loon D12SM, MCP-655 D5 Vario, Micro Res v2, Masterkleer 7/16 ID, DD "FatBoy" 1/2 Barbs, Pentosin G11 Blue. 28c Idle, 39c Load Project HAF Water-Cooled 3DMark06 High Score 21,710 http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=9678912 Best Overclock, & There's More to Come http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=491589 Official OCN Camera Club |Nikon D40| |18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 VR| |55-200mm f/4-5.6 VR|
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#14 (permalink) | |||||||||||
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4.0ghz
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Join Date: May 2007
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I dropped 19c off my load temps going to WCing. The best part? I was using a VERY well lapped TRUE on my VERY well lapped Q6600
Do it man. I am running a MCP-655 pump, 3x120 rad (MCR320), and a GTZ CPU block. Just FYI, I bought all but the CPU block used, and I am using low speed Yate Loons, so my comp is SILENT!
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#15 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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Testing addict
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Klamath Falls, OR
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I tried to run my Q6600 on my old Scythe Infinity with the overclock I've been running my water setup at. I thought I would at least get some numbers, but it would BSOD on me as soon as I fired up Prime95. Thermal shutdown on the chip where water keeps it under 50 on load.
I don't expect there are huge differences with really small stock like heatloads, but when you start really turning up the heat and you've got a large radiator, that's where water works well. You also have the ability to either use a strong fan/small rad or large or series of rads and small fans and get the same performance at a much lower noise level. The tower HSF combos are limited in options, want high performance means you need a high speed fan... Anyhow, water isn't for everyone though. Nothing wrong with a HSF, just not nearly as fun if you ask me. A big part of the enjoyment with water cooling is all the customization that's possible...not much you can do to customize a HSF...
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#16 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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the only negative thing i have to say about water is, if your room ambience creeps up, in summer for example, then the water cooling becomes pretty useless.
in perth, we get days that go up to 35+ easily in summer, which we are leading into..and its a dry heat. so my water temps are probably bout the same as air cooled. water cooling is perfectly safe really, just take your time and do it right. if you rush and it leaks, thats your fault. you guys over the pond are heading into winter yeah? water cooling thrives in winter. sure, air does as well, but not as much.
__________________
Wait, we can't stop here. This is bat country... Quote:
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#17 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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Ya summer just ended here for me. this summer it was getting up to 110 degree's F.
Right now it's around 76F during the day. and down to high 50's at night. so days are around 24C and nights get down to 15c or so. and it will continue to get colder. Ya water during the winter would be great. I could get some hella good temps. but I'm in a desert. so the coldest it gets still is not that bad. No snow or anything here. I'll try the True first. or should I jsut buy the water anyways.. since it's a great deal and get it while I can.
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H20 Loop: Swiftech Apogee GTZ, Feser TFC360 RAD w/ 3 Yate Loon D12SM, MCP-655 D5 Vario, Micro Res v2, Masterkleer 7/16 ID, DD "FatBoy" 1/2 Barbs, Pentosin G11 Blue. 28c Idle, 39c Load Project HAF Water-Cooled 3DMark06 High Score 21,710 http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=9678912 Best Overclock, & There's More to Come http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=491589 Official OCN Camera Club |Nikon D40| |18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 VR| |55-200mm f/4-5.6 VR|
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#18 (permalink) | |||||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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im not sure about US prices but if you say thats a great deal, go for it. worst comes to worst, you can always try re-sell it later if you dont open it. make back what you paid, maybe even add a bit of mark up
__________________
Wait, we can't stop here. This is bat country... Quote:
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#19 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.104GHz
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I have two of the 88CFm sliptreams and a Panaflo H1. Running fans in series do not upp max CFM, but they do doubt static pressure. However, the Panaflo already has more than double the static pressure of the 88CFM slipstreams, and will maintain a higher CFM. Also the 2500RPM Panaflo H1 is not that loud. It's by no means a quiet fan, but most of the sound it produces is pure air flow, bearing noise is very low. Very tolerable in a closed case.
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#20 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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PC Gamer
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Quote:
![]() if you were to put a stock air cooler on an OC'd quad core and compare it to it's water-cooled version, you'd still get better temps with the water. it might be a few degrees hotter (with air or water) if your ambient is a few degrees hotter
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