Shrimpykins projects (Formerly Custom Shrouds) - Overclock.net

Shrimpykins · 07-20-09

I am going to use this thread to update you guys on what I am working on... I love to build things and have access to a shop so I spend a few hours every week in there doing stuff. Money has run short lately so I haven't gotten to complete the shroud but I figured I may as well get some designs that I have got in my head on paper so I don't forget them.

My original plan was to design/build a shroud for my Black Ice GTX 480 using a plasma CnC to cut out the parts. I designed it as one part and I am going to attempt to bend it so I can minimize the welds needed.

Here is what I came up with. This is the most up-to-date design I have and I will be editing this post with new updates.

This next one has 2 different engravings for the sides, I will probably only use one type for both sides though.

Got the first two prototypes cut today. Made a video so you guys can see the plasma CnC in action. The video is shot with the CnC running at 100% travel speed. I actually cut the second prototype using 150% travel speed to see if it would reduce the warping of the pattern. It did help, though not much. It is very hard to cut such thin metal on such a machine

. They came out nice, I will be able to hammer them into submission and get em' nice and flat. Then it is on to the bending table and after that the tig welder if the mig welder starts to blow through the shroud... It is made from 18 guage steel.

YouTube - 100 0095

UPDATE 1: Tried taking the bending table to both prototypes but I couldn't bend either like I wanted. I am going to have to find a way to bend this thing because I really want it to be cut from one solid piece. I ended up cutting two separate pieces just to see how it would turn out. The welding warped it, nothing that can't be fixed but still it's a bit off. I am going to try a few other ways using the bending table. Here is a pic of the "final" product.

I have taken the shroud about as far as I can for now... Need to wait for my funds to bounce back before I can order more metal to play around with my design.

NEW PROJECT

Custom complete watercooling enclosure

The idea here is to separate the water cooling components from the computer completely except for the tubing and blocks. The rad/pump/res/shrouds/fans will all be mounted internally inside the rad box. This design is just a rough design for right now, the dimensions of it are just what I had in my head, it's not catered for any radiator/fan combo yet but I am looking to do one for the new black ice SR1's with some 25mm low speed fans if they perform well. I figure I would go low noise, low profile this time and see what I can do with it. I am looking at either 2x 360's or 2x 480's, don't know if I wanna go dual loop or single loop yet, this is still just a fart in my brain really.

Here is some quick cad of my idea with 480's in mind. I didn't bother to break out autocad so I just wrote it up in emachineshop. if you have never used emachineshop and wanna get some designs layed out in 3d format really quick there is no better tool really. It's so easy to use a 5 year old could pick it up. They also have very quick tutorials on their site... The best part is it is free and if you design something and decide you wanna get it machined you can send it off to EmachineShop and they will fab it up for ya! There is even a pricing module built in to the program.

It's probably best to watch this in HD with fullscreen if you can, otherwise it is hard to make out.

YouTube - emachineshop 2009 08 14 12 45 21 41 WMV V9

The fans will of course be able to be either in a push or pull configuration depending on whether you want it to vent out the two back 120mm fans or the sides, through the rads. I figure some 120x38mm fans in the back will provide a bit of either positive or negative pressure (depending on which way your airflow is going). I personally would like to vent out the back, that's just me though.

Desk design (in progress of being built, waiting for glass to be cut.) I am going to deck this thing out with a crazy cutout mounted one inch under the glass and throws some type of ccfl or LED in there so it shines through the pattern. The sketchup drawing is to-scale. I use my 40" tv as my monitor, saves space.

NEW BLOCK:
Kinda a HK 3.0 inspiration but made for use with 2 separate pumps in this one block.

These grooves are each 1/64" thick and 1/16" deep. I plan to make the contact plate as thin as I can, hopefully 1/32" (the distance between the bottom of the groove and the face that touches the CPU).

Lifted the bottom of the inlet and outlet to allow for even flow over the grooves.

View from overhead with the top in place.

Design for the backplate in under way. Here is the work in progress. I log all these ideas in expectation of some free time in the near future but who knows when it will arrive. Hopefully I can start making some build logs for these ideas, would be much more entertaining than this

.

I've always like tigers and I wanted to represent what I was running in the rig so I drew up the nvid/intel stuff. Those are tiger eyes in the middle in case you can't tell. This is the 3d preview of the finished plate, although it will be more like 20 guage steel rather than 1/2".

Of course the intel/nvidia symbols will be cut from as a separate sheet and go up under the keyboard drop-down.

This is of course a design for the desk I designed.

The nvidia symbol is a little wacky, one of the solid faces appears empty but oh well, the lines are correct and the g-code looked to be on so I am not worried about it.

xxbassplayerxx · 07-20-09

Many people make them out of old fans, so 25-38mm.

Maybe not optimal, but good enough.

Shrimpykins · 07-20-09

Right, but I am looking for optimal. The shroud I am making will not have anything separating the fans like 4 separate home-made shrouds would.

This will be one of the faces.

Plus I wanna keep it as low profile as possible.

Shrimpykins · 07-20-09

Modified my original design to incorporate more surface area of the rad.

Anyone have info on the optimal thickness? I would assume it depends on the fans being used since the dead spot varies.

I am going to try to cut the shroud out of one piece of aluminum and use a bending table to reduce the amount of welding. It will more than likely end up being two pieces, one side being a face and 4 sides and the other being the 2nd face.

**ira-k** · 07-20-09

I used to make mine out of aluminium channel, I've tried 1/2",3/4" and 1.5". Going from 3/4" aluminium channel to 1.5" gutted 38mm fans to gave me around another 1-1.5C, so going from that I'd say 1.5". Those were all using BIX and GTX rad's.And it will vary a little depending on fan hub size, the larger the hub the little more the off set to close the air flow hole.

1.5" has more of less been the standard for years.

If you real energetic you could always use some all thread rod to hang your fans on the rad at different off-sets and just use duct tape to close it up and try different depths till you[found and optimum depth for your set-up and then make your shrouds that depth.

These are what I used to make out of aluminium channel, I had to cut semi-circles out in them so it wouldn't restrict air flow. Anymore I just use gutted 120x38mm fans.

Shrimpykins · 07-20-09

I had looked over your shroud you made with the channel, I could do that but I have some spare time and wanna get back on the plasma CnC for something since I haven't used it in a while. Plus I wanna try and get some nice rounded edges for the shroud.

**ira-k** · 07-20-09

Man I would to if I had access to one. I'd make them in sections, as per your modular thought there, with a o-ring recess on one side of each, then you could just try various shroud depths and the o-ring would keep it all air tight.

Herc130 · 07-20-09

Technofront makes some nice looking shrouds if you like plexi and it's probably basically the same design you have in mind....well, at least it was the same basic idea I had in mind, cause I don't like the idea of using gutted fans for a shroud either (maybe on a 120x1 rad). Seems counter-productive to go through the trouble of pulling the fan spacing back to get better coverage of airfow through the fins usng something that covers up the fins. Anyway, they go 42mm for depth which is 1.65" or so.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25684

Deagle50ae · 07-20-09

38mm is what my research suggests.

**ira-k** · 07-20-09

Quote:

I don't like the idea of using gutted fans for a shroud either (maybe on a 120x1 rad). Seems counter-productive to go through the trouble of pulling the fan spacing back to get better coverage of airfow through the fins usng something that covers up the fins.

They don't cover up the fins Herc, they set on the rad shell and up above the fins a .25"-.375" or so, the fan flow pulls all the way across the rad.

Now on a heater core it would do that because it doesn't have a rad shell like a made for PC WC'ing rad has.

		Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Cooling > Water Cooling
Shrimpykins projects (Formerly Custom Shrouds)

07-20-09	#8 (permalink)
Herc130 New to Overclock.net Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Hawaii Posts: 86 Rep: 19 Unique Rep: 14 Trader Rating: 0	Technofront makes some nice looking shrouds if you like plexi and it's probably basically the same design you have in mind....well, at least it was the same basic idea I had in mind, cause I don't like the idea of using gutted fans for a shroud either (maybe on a 120x1 rad). Seems counter-productive to go through the trouble of pulling the fan spacing back to get better coverage of airfow through the fins usng something that covers up the fins. Anyway, they go 42mm for depth which is 1.65" or so. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25684

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