Wanting to get into the basics. - Overclock.net

Dark.Wolf · 10-08-09

I'm contemplating watercooling. So far I know I need the following things:
- pump
- reservoir
- tubing
- fluid
- blocks
- and barbs/ties

What should I be looking for in the pumps/reservoirs. Like what makes a pump better then another. And for a res, I suppose they are all alike except for their size. Please fill me in!!! I want to learn teh wayz of the water...

Gill.. · 10-08-09

general rule of thumb is metal is better than plastice. I was a 1/2 inch believer - I liked the increased flow. I went with a closed loop system with a T-line instead of a rez... but I bought a couple rez's now...

1/2 ID with thick tubing... use metal fasteners and barbs too... that's key.... build it solid, don't cheap out.

Tubing, I went with blue - but I'm bummed I can't really see the fluid itself as much...I want to go clear now because of that......

Fluid....distilled water, little bit of biocide...and UV reactive if you're crazy....

For blocks, I went dangerden there and with the pump...nice solid block with metal barbs... here the important thing to check is to make sure the barbs you choose are angled enough apart - that whatever size tubing you choose will ACTUALLY fit - ie...1/2 ID is wicked thick...it's a little tight on my CPU block... but that's perfect...good luck.. let us know what else... and I hope others help too, I'm just trying while hoping the sox take the lead....

Don't mix your metals too (copper/ aluminum etc..)....Get a good radiator too...overkill is always the key..think of what you're trying to cool here.

For pumps...make sure it can pump vertically as much as you need...I think the power connectors are key here too... I got mine with a 3 pin connector right for where my cpu fan went into previously...sweet..

Radbox's are the balls, I can't speak highly enough about them...check em out...

voklskier4452 · 10-08-09

I am liking my MCP-355 with XSPC top for a pump, very strong pump and the clear acrylic is dead sexy.

I have been using a Danger-Den single bay reservoir for around a year now, its decent enough, though a EK multi-option or something of that nature will give you alot more options.

I am one of those that believe that 1/2" is king for tubing (I use Feser tubing and it is great!), though in tight cases 3/8" will serve you better with its flexibility.

De-Ionized water is the way to go for coolant, add in some biocide and some UV additive if you so desire and you are ready to go.

As for blocks, Dangerden makes pretty solid blocks all around, EK makes the best motherboard blocks IMO, and Heatkiller is the king of CPU and GPU blocks. Their are of course countless other brands of waterblocks.

Barbs and worm screws or clamps will work very well for holding down the tubing, but if a good looking loop is what you desire, compression fittings are the only way to go

.

billbartuska · 10-08-09

Have a look. There is pretty much all you need to know about pumps/rads here:

Martin's Liquid Lab
Skinnee labs

Pumps have two specs that you shpuld be concerned about, head and flow. With any pump, as the head (pressure) goes up, the flow goes down. And heights don't matter.

nafljhy · 10-09-09

the best things to look for in a pump are the head and flow. the higher the head means it can deal with restrictions from block and rads much better. and a higher flow means well.. higher flow. i guess you could say it allows for easier passage of fluid.

the two most popular pumps are the DDC3.2/MCP355 (high head) and D5/MCP655 (high flow). if you can find a reliable pump with specs in between the two, that would be good too.

for blocks it's usally performance and the restriction of the block.... in the word's of OC'ing Noob:

Quote:

Originally Posted by OC'ing Noob

Certain blocks make it harder for water to flow than others. Blocks like the EK Supreme are like Virgin Mary and blocks like MC-TDX are like Tera Patrick.

Dark.Wolf · 10-09-09

Oh god nafl... good quote. Thank you for the help guys. Now if I did try to watercool, I'm positive I would have to get a new case... *pocket empties out* Is it worth the hassle to maybe mod a cheaper case as opposed to buying a case already meant for watercooling?

TerryP · 10-09-09

I dont want to get in trobble so i'm sorry in advance but I got a DD TDX 1366 block and a aquabay res I could let go real cheep to get you started..

Dark.Wolf · 10-13-09

Yea... Don't think I mentioned I wanted to buy anything...

And nafljhy, or anyone who can answer, what kind of "restrictions" are we talking about in the blocks?

junkyard00000 · 10-13-09

Restriction refers to how difficult it is to force water through a certain component. A block with wide channels and large pathways for the water to flow would be very unrestrictive, while one with thinner channels would be more restrictive.

Also, I saw de-ionized water mentioned. Stay far away from this. You would want distilled water, not deionized. Distilled water has impurities removed from it, while deionized water has charged water molecules (electrons have been removed). The copper bases in your waterblocks would quickly oxidize with the use of deionized water, as the water molecules will naturally "pull" extra electrons from the copper.

Dark.Wolf · 10-13-09

Hmm... So how much of a difference is there in the performance of blocks? It seems like all blocks with low restrictions would be very similar, yet there are blocks that cost over $100 and some that $40.

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Wanting to get into the basics.

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