Heatkiller 3.0 poorly made? - Page 7 - Overclock.net

sailerboy · 2 Weeks Ago

Pics would help

c5pilot · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimpykins

it insults me that you think I would be malicious/stupid enough to provide falsified evidence.

Falsified? Perhaps remembered incorrectly or procedurally lacking? It's not malicious if it's not intensional, and I don't believe it was. Sorry you feel offended. When you're going to make claims that go against all historical data, you better be real sure. Otherwise, you're just Al Gore.

Shrimpykins · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by c5pilot

Falsified? Perhaps remembered incorrectly or procedurally lacking? It's not malicious if it's not intensional, and I don't believe it was. Sorry you feel offended. When you're going to make claims that go against all historical data, you better be real sure. Otherwise, you're just Al Gore.

Against what historical data? Where are the tests that show lapping a HK get's you worse temps? In fact, historically speaking, lapping waterblocks/cpus will get you lower temps.

Alexandro · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by HESmelaugh@XtremeSystem)

Okay, results:
All temps are the difference between CPU and water temperature.

Average temperature of all mounts before lapping: 30.4

Temperature after lapping, Run 1: 31.7
Temperature after lapping, Run 2: 31.7
Temperature after lapping, Run 3: Well, what's the point, really?
link

There you go. This has been confirmed by several other people. Most heat of a CPU comes from the center. So most blocks are made concave to get center to touch CPU better. Lapping does not improve performance, at least not for this block.

Shrimpykins · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexandro

There you go. This has been confirmed by several other people. Most heat of a CPU comes from the center. So most blocks are made concave to get center to touch CPU better. Lapping does not improve performance, at least not for this block.

Lapping this block does not make it flat when re-assembled.

Clockadile Dundee · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrimpykins

Lapping this block does not make it flat when re-assembled.

For some reason< I can't wrap my head around what you are saying.

Are you saying that the base's contact patch is flat, but when the top is bolted on, it changes shape?

fstfrddy · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clockadile Dundee

For some reason< I can't wrap my head around what you are saying.

Are you saying that the base's contact patch is flat, but when the top is bolted on, it changes shape?

That is what they are saying that the bow is put into the block when it is assembled. That is why if you are going to lap one that it should be disassembled to lap so the bow is not lapped out. If you lapped it assembled then took it apart the base would actually be concave.

Shrimpykins · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by fstfrddy

That is what they are saying that the bow is put into the block when it is assembled. That is why if you are going to lap one that it should be disassembled to lap so the bow is not lapped out. If you lapped it assembled then took it apart the base would actually be concave.

Exactly.... Imagine the corners of the top of the HK 3.0 to be a slight bit higher than the midpoint between the corners. It causes the contact plate to flex downwards in the middle, and upwards towards the outside, thus causing the "bow". You physically cannot lap the bow out of the block if you lap it dis-assembled. Due to this a lap job on an HK 3.0 will (and I say will, based off my personal experience. It probably varies from block to block) get you lower temps.

Basically lap it all you want.. Just don't do three things...

1. Lap the contact plate with the block assembled.
2. Try to lap it so much that you eventually puncture the contact plate through the slots cut into it.
3. Try to lap the top of the block on it's bottom side (the side where the o-rings are seated)

#3 will destroy the bow completely and you will have no chance of getting it back.

The bow could also be caused by the amount of pressure of the pressure plate on the inside to the middle of the contact plate. I seriously doubt that otherwise I would've noticed some type of wear on the top side of the contact plate where the slots are cut.

c5pilot · 2 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexandro

There you go. This has been confirmed by several other people. Most heat of a CPU comes from the center. So most blocks are made concave to get center to touch CPU better. Lapping does not improve performance, at least not for this block.

There's another interesting post about the HESmelaugh@XtremeSystem quote from another site...

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubidium@realderaider.com

Having spent considerable time years ago during my student days getting surfaces "optically flat" and keeping them that way, I can assure everyone that flatness will not survive significant changes in temperature or asymmetrical loading unless the object is very thick, or unless the block and IHS surfaces are prepared at operational temperatures AND the two are mated under the application of a uniform pressure distribution. Essentially 2 things are going to happen to every water block I know of: 1) The temperature is going to increase above the level at which the surface was lapped flat (assuming true flatness was achieved in the first place - which is doubtful, unless a special technique is employed), and 2) Non uniform pressure will be applied to the block - primarily along the outer periphery. Both factors will lead to distortion.

Tbh, everyone's fetish with lapping to achieve flatness doesn't really achieve flatness. There is, however, one important practical benefit: to eliminate any relatively large surface imperfections from sloppy machining practices, like flycutting.

Shrimpykins · 2 Weeks Ago

With the amount of pressure of the contact plate being held on to the top of the block I seriously doubt any type of warping will occur due to temperature change. Not enough to seriously affect the block, otherwise you would notice a random temperature change across all blocks as they would all warp differently. Due to the bow in the HK 3.0 significant amounts of pressure can be applied to the block before actually concaving the middle of the contact plate and causing the outer rims of the plate to contact the CPU first. In fact I would go as far as to say you can't. I have literally tightened my block down as much as I could without snapping a mounting bolt. I compressed the springs as far as they would go and the block still had the same temps as when I dial it in for just the right pressure.

		Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Cooling > Water Cooling
Heatkiller 3.0 poorly made?

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)