typoknig

So I just got my new Heatkiller 3.0 in the mail and I was kind of dissapointed with the shine on the bottom of the heat sink. Here is a picture of my new Heatkiller next to one of my Swiftech Apogee GTZ's. Is this normal for the Heatkiller or should I return it and get another one?

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Ladiesman101

hmm
not sure man
just make sure its flat and try it
if its not working RMA

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pcnuttie

I don't know i never done water cooling, i want to someday.. someone told me you can try lapping it to be sure the heatsink is straight. If you know what it is then can you take pics and show me what exactly lapping is? razor on heatsink to see if it's shiny and flat? I dunno lol.

ChielScape

heatkillers never had shiny bases. its the one complaint i have about them. if you lap it, make sure to do it disassembled.

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_AKIMbO_

That is what every HK 3.0 looks like on the bottom. I had the same concern when I got mine...I thought that the rough milled out bottom couldn't be normal but it is. Also, don't lap the HK as it is concave (or convex...can't remember which one) and lapping will alter (in a bad way) the manner in w/c the HK makes contact with your CPU.

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typoknig

I don't wanna lap it, it is brand new, I think a superior heat sink should be shiny like my Apogee GTZ. I don't have a straight edge here now, but when I put my Heatkiller and Apogee GTZ on top of each other I can see light, that means that one of them is bowed.

_AKIMbO_

Yes, it's the HK that is bowed. And this slight bow is done purposely in order to assure that the HK makes better contact w/ the CPU. Also, I agree with you, I believe that a cpu block that costs as much as an HK does should come with a shiny base. That is the only complaint I have with the Heatkiller.

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Shrimpykins

Don't!

I recently lapped my HK 3.0, last night to be exact - disassembled - and my temps rose 6C. It may be an error with a loose o-ring or maybe the channels are dirty but for right now my evidence says don't lap. I will conduct more experiments when I get home today to make sure.

I did make some interesting discoveries. Though some where obvious... For one, the HK 3.0 bow is caused by the top piece of the block, not the plate itself and therefore it can be lapped. I lapped mine to a perfectly flat shine, according to a few new razors, and then re-assembled. The HK 3.0 bottom plate retained it's bow when assembled.

Another thing I discovered was they are actually rather thick. I was able to lap this the first time and then go over it again with some 800, taking off a few more layers and then polish it with a 2500 grit and I don't appear to have compromised the integrity of the contact plate. I had heard of people lapping too much off and actually puncturing through the channels.

There is also only one, out of a possible 2, correct way to mount the contact plate for the HK 3.0. If you will look closely you can see the contact plate has slight angles at the end of each of the channels. These angles need to be pointed towards the outlet for the block.

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cooper_inc1

I am too chicken to lap anything. I like my warranties XD

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havox

using a non stock intel heatsink as well as overclocking voids warranty of course this is easy to fake though