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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #11 (permalink)
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Since your getting a DDC I would ditch the res and pick up a xspc restop for your pump. Increases both flow and head of the ddc and it looks sweet. Also very easy to bleed.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23357

This will also eliminate the problem of the stock unchangeable 3/8'' barbs on the stock top.

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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidForce View Post
Since your getting a DDC I would ditch the res and pick up a xspc restop for your pump. Increases both flow and head of the ddc and it looks sweet. Also very easy to bleed.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=23357

This will also eliminate the problem of the stock unchangeable 3/8'' barbs on the stock top.
He's getting the MCP655...

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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #13 (permalink)
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When I first put my currant loop together I used a T-line, it took for ever to get those tiny air bubbles out of the system. Now I have a Micro res. rev.1 and would never use a T-line again.

chucklez check the OCN Market place for some of your needs
http://www.overclock.net/legacy-sale...board-ram.html This is a good res. if you have room
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #14 (permalink)
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Looks like a great loop. I normally don't recommend 7/16 ID to first timers so I would pick up some hose clamps to be on the safe side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by meticadpa View Post
He's getting the MCP655...

()
You sir are correct....

Give me a break... reading is hard

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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #15 (permalink)
*cough* Stock *cough*
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meticadpa View Post
Glad I could help.

Yes, you are right; having a res is always better than not having one. Not only is it frustrating to fill your loop if you're using a T-line, but it also doesn't look as good, and takes longer to bleed your loop.

What barbs are you going to be using? These Fatboy barbs are pretty much the best you can get.
Yeah thats one thing I dont know about is barbs. Are thoes the ones I should get? I really dont get the whole barb thing itsnt it just the clap that keeps the tubing connected to the res/cpu block/rad?

So you guys think the res is a good idea and and is 7/16 tubing hard to work with when your a first timer? I dont want to fry my parts here that would not be a good thing.

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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #16 (permalink)
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You can save yourself 15 dollars by getting an Enzotech Sapphire from newegg.. it performs better than the LC and works great in a multi-block loop if you do that later on. Check my sig for a performance comparison.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #17 (permalink)
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Don't forget fittings and clamps. Get 1/2 fittings with 7/16 tubing for a tight seel.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #18 (permalink)
*cough* Stock *cough*
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyard00000 View Post
You can save yourself 15 dollars by getting an Enzotech Sapphire from newegg.. it performs better than the LC and works great in a multi-block loop if you do that later on. Check my sig for a performance comparison.
So that Enzo Sapphire is better then the HeatKiller 3.0?

Also are these fittings any good? They seem good but im not sure.

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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #19 (permalink)
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I don't think it's better but I could be wrong. It has a much better flow rate though
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #20 (permalink)
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Its better than the HK3 LC that you picked out. Its worse than the CU, but that will cost you more than 30 bucks extra.
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Power Supply
Silverstone Olympia 850w
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