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Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Cooling > Water Cooling | |
Water for Christmas
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#1 (permalink) | ||||||||||||
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*cough* Stock *cough*
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Well for Christmas my parents have givin me a budget of about ~$270. So I have decided that I would like to see how good of a watercooling set up I can get. I have made one and would like your opinions on where I can save some money here and there.
Here is my list; Watercool HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 754/939/AM2 LT CPU Water Block $64.95 Black Ice® GT Stealth 360 Highest Performance Radiator $59.95 Swiftech MCP655™ Series 12 VDC Water Pumps $64.95 Swiftech MCRES-MICRO™ Rev. 2 Reservoir $24.95 PrimoFlex Pro LRT Clear Tubing -7/16in. ID X 5/8in. OD $10.00 for 5FT PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Liquid Cooling Fluid (32 oz.) - Blood Red $15.95 Total: $240.75
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Last edited by Chucklez : 3 Weeks Ago at 06:11 PM |
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#2 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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New to Overclock.net
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You could always ditch the res ...
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#3 (permalink) | |||||||||||
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New to Overclock.net
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you can change the cooling for distiled water + PTnuke saves money
__________________and by the time the non conductive liquid has been in you copper radiator and blocks for a while the cooper ions end up in the liquid making it conductive.
Last edited by markp1989 : 3 Weeks Ago at 03:07 PM |
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#4 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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#5 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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You can go MCP355 too.... very sufficient.
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#6 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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New to Overclock.net
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What's the point in a 50ml res anyway? it surely won't add much of a temperature buffer to the water.
A T line will to the same.
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#7 (permalink) | |||||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ghettoshiels in Scotland
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Quote:
The best CPU block, an awesome reservoir, great pump, etc., but I have a few suggestions. Get 7/16 ID tubing, with 1/2 barbs, you don't need any clamps or anything then, the seal is tight enough. If you're just going to be using a CPU loop, you can downgrade the pump, the MCP355 as mentioned is an amazing substitute, it actually has better head than its big brother, so is better for a loop with a lot of blocks. If you want to save even more money, get the DangerDen DB-1. It's competent enough for a CPU only loop, easily. The perfect radiator you've chosen, another one to look at is the XSPC RX360. Don't get rid of the res... you'll regret it later on when you want to fill your loop, and a good res actually helps with bleeding times a lot. I'm sure you already know this, but you need fans. Get Yate Loon medium speed fans for a budget conscious choice, or Panaflo something or other for a more expensive, but slightly better performing choice.
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#8 (permalink) | |||||||||||||
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*cough* Stock *cough*
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Thanks for the suggestion and +Rep for those to helped. But please keep suggestion things guys
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Last edited by Chucklez : 3 Weeks Ago at 08:42 PM |
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#9 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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WaterCooler
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Quote:
Anyways I always vote to do colored tubing and distilled water instead of coolants, it just keeps your components operating better in the long run.
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Last edited by cooper_inc1 : 3 Weeks Ago at 08:53 PM |
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#10 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||
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4.0 GHz
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Glad I could help.
![]() Yes, you are right; having a res is always better than not having one. Not only is it frustrating to fill your loop if you're using a T-line, but it also doesn't look as good, and takes longer to bleed your loop. What barbs are you going to be using? These Fatboy barbs are pretty much the best you can get.
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