Thumper

You are saying that the water coming out of the radiator is the same temp as the water later in the loop? Maybe with a really bad radiator, but that is not ideal.


Perhaps I misunderstood, but the reason running the flow;

pump> rad> CPU> res> pump

is because the radiator will cool the water down right before it enters the block, which will then allow it to pick up more heat in the CPU block. Water can only absorb so much heat, same as any other material, and as it approaches it's maximum ability, it's efficency is reduced. Therefore, cooling the water as much as possible before entering the CPU block means that it can absorb more heat faster than water of a higher tempeture could.

You have a good point about length of tubing and bends, however, that does not change the fact that the ideal setup, and one that should be planned for, is pump to radiator first. Making that loop with minimal bends and tubing is a given, but it's still making that loop that yields the best temps.

cgrado

i bet using UV reactive coolant (or adding highlighter juice) would help find leaks. (assuming you have a UV light). i'm looking at putting together a WC system.

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drechana

call me stupid but when you say to test for leaks, is that with it all plugged into the pc or just make a loop outside of the PC?

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ChielScape

all in the case, but powering only the pump, so you dont fry your rig when it leaks.

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ira-k

I do it both ways, once out of the box with new components, your really just pressure testing it all, and then again in my case...With new gear pump seals can blow or block o-rings, res's can be cracked...etc...Then when you do it in your case your checking your tube to barb unions then...

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cgrado

Yeah, i ran mine outside of my case with this spare PSU i have for a while and fixed up the leakes on barbs there with some teflon tape. No leaks since. I just put it and and powered it all up and it was good.

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drechana

see this is what i am not understanding, how can u do it without using ur mobo? i mean, i need my gfx cards in there cause they will be wc'd....and powering only the pump? How when it runs off a molex? Sorry but this is frying my brain and really confusing me lol.

By the way for all you UK enthusiasts do not buy from WWW.COOLERCASES.CO.UK they are totally unproffesional and they also lie. They messed up the order and sent my rad to someone else and thier rad to me but when i asked them about it they said name a day you want it and we will do a straight swap with parcel force, that was meant to be today because it is my day off. Then when i got in contact with him today and said where is my rad he said "i have a note on my desk that says deliver thursday".

Why say "pick a day" if you know you cant meet that demand. This was on saturday and i said tuesday so its not as if he didnt have time to sort it!

Strange thing was he said a note? a note? why a note? i sent an emal, to him, perosnally. Why would there be a note on his desk saying i asked for thrusday when i specifically asked for tuesday BY EMAIL?

Stupid, Blind? Or just plain unprofessional? You decided.

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dralb

You need to line everything up as best you can. Use a piece of cardboard and draw a rough diagram of the board on it. Make sure to include enough extra hose for error. Once yo have the together and want to test, simply jump the power supply and run the pump. Here is a diagram of the way to get the PCU to turn on without it connected to mobo.

http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-...upply-psu.html


I designed mine so I can remove the entire loop as a unit. It makes it much easier to bleed and mess with. The only thing that gets bolted in are the blocks.

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Whodie

you guys are way too scientific about this stuff, just take a rough measurement with your eyes for tubing length. I personally don't leak test, but then again I tear my loop apart about once a month to add something or change something so it's just too much of a hassle for me. I got burned once though for not leak testing, killed my PSU, motherboard, and GPU. But it did give me a reason to upgrade.


All you need to do is jump the PSU to do leak testing. Stick a paperclip into the green wire on the 24pin connector and connect the other end to one of the black ground plugs. Voila, you're done!

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benfica101

yer very nice example how you say PUMP-RAD-CPU-RES PUMP i followed ur inscructions my rad is located at the back of my case with one fan on the inside of the case on the rad pushing air threw and one at the back pulling and pushing it out side the case i have a E6600 i got it up to 3.4Ghz my temps range from idle 27-31 max load this is in celcius btw could you tell me if the temps are alright