vwgti

Hey all Im looking into replacing the plastic barbs that came with my swiftech micro res, apogee gt and mcr220. However I am unfamiliar with what thread types to get.Also if you could recommend any that will fit without spacing issues due to the inley/outlet of the waterblock/reservoir.

Thanks guys and gals.

Juggalo23451

g1/4(size of thread) to 1/2 (size of the barb) is usually the standard
bitspower makes good barbs

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1trsi1fi.html


stub barbs
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishstfi.html

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vwgti

Thanks for the input, so these http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenpesefig.html should work then?

_AKIMbO_

Yeah, those will work.

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skkhai

I'd go with the fat boys.

In conjunction with clamps, tubing will fit tighter on them to help prevent leaks. I think they also have a larger inner diameter for slightly better flow.

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vwgti

Thanks for the help guys. So on those fatboys, will the o rings seal well with my kit?? Or should I also use thread tape?

skkhai

They seal just fine on all of my parts without any thread tape. Heatkiller, MCR320, MCR220, Micro Res both revisions, MCW60 both revisions.

How old is your MCR220? The ancient ones used to use G 3/8" threading barbs, so I would double check if yours is old. The plastic Swiftech G 3/8" barbs needed a bigger wrench to tighten. So if you use the same wrench to tighten your rad barbs as your other ones, chances are it's G 1/4".

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vwgti

Well the rad shouldnt be ancient. I got it in a kit with the rest of the parts.All barbs use the same size wrench, so Im hoping they are g1/4.Time will tell thanks again.

carrion

The barbs with o-rings generally seals enough to prevent leaks. Bitspower and from some other manufacturers (koolance etc) that I have used, all seals pretty good.
The key is to wrench them until you wont see the o-ring from the side (that depends on block/rad/res and bard.. but in most cases thats the point)

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vwgti

Well with the stock plastic barbs, I just finger tightened them and wrenched them a quarter turn with orings still visible. Leak free for a year and half. Do the metal ones require you to wrench them in that much more?