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Old 11-30-09   #1 (permalink)
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Default RD-30 - PSU / Converters / Adapters?

I was wondering what I should be taking into account, in selecting these options for an RD-30.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=26144

They say you need either something like a Meanwell, or a 12v-24v converter ($37), or a "fully modded adapter" ($75).

They sell 5/8" -> 1/2" Pump Adapters...does this mean the pump in/out are already 1/2"?
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Old 11-30-09   #2 (permalink)
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no they are standar 5/8
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Old 11-30-09   #3 (permalink)
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I know this isnt a helpful, but why the heck would you need an Iwaki? Are you doing a geothermal loop or something?
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Old 11-30-09   #4 (permalink)
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You'll need a 24vdc PSU like this..S-100F-24, Mean Well S-100F-24 ..Hopefully you'll be able to trim it down to 18-21vdc with the rheo on it, everyone I've had are a little different, just luck of the draw. The RD 30 runs to hot at 24vdc so you want to get it down to around 18vdc if you can, I know a lot of them are running around 21vdc and they seem to be doing OK.

I'd at least go 5/8-3/4" from res to pump, you want to keep a good sized suction line if you can at all. Then go with 1/2" on the pressure side.

Here's how I set up my AC Iwaki so that the pumps intake is fed with 3/4x1.25" tube from res to pump, then I have a special block with a 3/4" inlet barb that I run. But anyway keep as much water stacked on top of your pump with a large inlet tube, I wouldn't use 1/2" for that, I'd think it would have to hurt performance, I know it would make the pump work harder and probably run a little hotter because of it to. This is a TEC rig or I would run the pump through a rad before going to CPU but with this rig it doesn't matter.

It's really important to give your pump a easily accessible supply of water on the intake side, I have a sealed 5 gallon bucket res over the top of this 20RZ for that reason. You don't have to go that big at all but I would use a decent sized res with a large intake tube. Stand the pump vertical like tht if you can at all, you may even be able to make a res right on the pump inlet.


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Last edited by ira-k : 11-30-09 at 05:44 PM
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Old 12-03-09   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackaBowl09 View Post
I know this isnt a helpful, but why the heck would you need an Iwaki? Are you doing a geothermal loop or something?
Not geothermal, but I am relocating the radbox to outside the house, for some Maine winter cooling. I am using a car radiator, and a few blocks on my 655, and I like the idea of the higher pressure, even with the increased plumbing length.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ira-k View Post
You'll need a 24vdc PSU like this..S-100F-24, Mean Well S-100F-24 ..Hopefully you'll be able to trim it down to 18-21vdc with the rheo on it, everyone I've had are a little different, just luck of the draw. The RD 30 runs to hot at 24vdc so you want to get it down to around 18vdc if you can, I know a lot of them are running around 21vdc and they seem to be doing OK.

I'd at least go 5/8-3/4" from res to pump, you want to keep a good sized suction line if you can at all. Then go with 1/2" on the pressure side.

Here's how I set up my AC Iwaki so that the pumps intake is fed with 3/4x1.25" tube from res to pump, then I have a special block with a 3/4" inlet barb that I run. But anyway keep as much water stacked on top of your pump with a large inlet tube, I wouldn't use 1/2" for that, I'd think it would have to hurt performance, I know it would make the pump work harder and probably run a little hotter because of it to. This is a TEC rig or I would run the pump through a rad before going to CPU but with this rig it doesn't matter.

It's really important to give your pump a easily accessible supply of water on the intake side, I have a sealed 5 gallon bucket res over the top of this 20RZ for that reason. You don't have to go that big at all but I would use a decent sized res with a large intake tube. Stand the pump vertical like tht if you can at all, you may even be able to make a res right on the pump inlet.
Thanks, this helps a lot. The pump (and the water running through it, of course) will be out in the winter air, if that helps.
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Old 12-04-09   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Thanks, this helps a lot. The pump (and the water running through it, of course) will be out in the winter air, if that helps.
Can't hurt, as long as it doesn't freeze. A Iwaki has a real good separation of coolant and pump heat, the impeller is well isolated from the pump body. But still the cooler you keep your pump the less heat that will migrate into your loop.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patch View Post
Makes sense. Trolls have nickel plated red blood cells. Helps their copper based hemogoblin deal with the high aluminium content in their spleens.
...***Beware all ye Men born of Woman, beware the Hemogoblins***..
**E8600 @ 5751Mhz ***OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery ***E8500 @ 5736Mhz **

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