Roxter

Hey guys! I'm starting my waterchiller setup fairly soon and just wanted to know about the dielectric grease. First off, where can i find this stuff. Second, should i spray down my whole motherboard+video card with a dielectric spray to stop condensation, and also, should i spray it all over my waterblock? Comments would be appreciated!

DrDeville

Roxter

alrighty, time to get this thing going. Well the other day i got my air conditioner from Value Village. 15$Can my I add. its a really good one, quite old but still very good. 6,000 BTUs. here is a pic of the air conditioner when its not torn apart.

[img=http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/7982/12121964ew.th.jpg]

yesterday i finally got this beast torn up and slowly bent the copper pipes so that i could get the evaporator into the bucket of water. here are a few pics of the outcome. BTW all the white stuff on the copper pipes is frost if you didn't already know.



[img=http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9598/12222067ra.th.jpg]

seems to work quite well. today i turned it on for 10 minutes and the water(probably about 4 litres) went from 19*C to 7*C so i'm pretty happy. tell me what you guys think about it

bigvaL

Looking good man. You use dialectric grease on the socket, around the socket a bit, and some on the back of the board behind the cpu.

PS. I have in hamilton too! Near mount albion and greenhill.

__________________
CS:S Server - GunGame 100tick Ping Boosted 32 Slot: overclock.nuclearfallout.net:27015
OC Settings: 3600mhz (400x9) 2:3, 1200mhz 5-5-5-15, 1.475vcore, 2.25vdimm, 58 C load @ 22C ambients, 650/2000 GPU.

Roxter

dude i live right down the street from you. i live on greenford drive. right up the street from eastgate mall. haha maybe one day you can come and see it. but right now i'm just trying to think of what pump to get, i am also making my own waterblock and am looking for the copper. i'm thinking of going to a place near kenilworth that sells scrap copper and other metals. tommorow i'm going to give them a call and see how much it would cast for a 2"x0.75" circle of copper.

bigvaL

Nice, my uncle owns kenilworth spring lol. You need to make sure that the pump doesnt have plastic interals as they can crack from the cold. Usually pond pumps and stuff work good. Stay away from material like lexan too when building the block (unless you use it for mounting).

__________________
CS:S Server - GunGame 100tick Ping Boosted 32 Slot: overclock.nuclearfallout.net:27015
OC Settings: 3600mhz (400x9) 2:3, 1200mhz 5-5-5-15, 1.475vcore, 2.25vdimm, 58 C load @ 22C ambients, 650/2000 GPU.

hvacgaspiping

Hey Roxter,

I`ve been the heat and air business since 1968 (Yeah, I`m an old bastard), and I`ve been looking over your setup. If you can get another unit in about a year, then this setup will be okay for maybe about that long.

First, You need to make sure that evaporator is FULLY immersed. If the frost line gets past the accumulator (the black elongated cylinder with the frosted line entering it) and into the compressor, you will soon have broken reed valves. Then the compressor will be no good. It will run and get hot, but will no longer pump. Secondly, since you took the unit out of the case, you need to cover the top of the condenser so the fan will blow the hot air out of the condenser. Next, you need to be ready for the aluminum fins to rot off the evaporator coil, as they aren`t designed to stay immersed in water. That won`t matter much anyway, because as long as the coil itself is fully immersed the water will provide enough heat exchange to get the cooling job done. You will need to get a remote bulb thermostat which will operate in temperature range you want, because the existing one on this unit is "high temp." or for air conditioning. If you ever hear the compressor hammering shut it off immediately, because that means it is "slugging". This would be from the frost line getting into the compressor (or liquid refrigerant instead of vapor like it`s supposed to get at that point). Do not let this unit short cycle, ie allow it to stop and then start right up again. It will need to sit 5 minutes before the compressor should be attempted to restart. Short cycling will greatly shorten the life of the compressor. If it begins to have trouble restarting, get a hard start kit (the electronic model has just two wires wired across the two leads of the compressor run capacitor). Finally, do not allow this unit to be more than 10 degrees from being level. Oil migration would occur from the compressor, and it would scramble internally. Good Luck.

Roxter

alright man, thanks alot for the heads up. when this unit is done it will be in a wooden box and the evap will be fully submersed in the water/antifreeze like you said.

Roxter

hey and BTW will fully immersing the evap stop the frost line from getting past the accumulator?

hvacgaspiping

Hey Roxter,

Yeah, that will stop the frost line as long as the unit hasn`t lost any freon. Most of these window shakers don`t leak, but a few of them do. If you suspect any freon loss (reduced cooling capacity, compressor running too warm, frost line in front of the accumulator), find someone who is in the HVAC business to help you. You will need a line tap for the suction line (line that`s frosting), a refrigerant manifold gage set, and some freon-22 (green jug). Usually, a unit like this one will have to lose half of it`s charge to effectively reduce cooling capacity.