Waterchiller build - Page 9 - Overclock.net

Dryadsoul · 04-05-06

Yeah, he was complaining about sore hands after this last one. If I had better than my Dremel I'ld "mill" one myself.......*** I could use some new wind chimes

PetrolHead · 04-05-06

Quote:

Originally Posted by wowza

Ok, well I got my Danner Mag-Drive 5 today from Lando (thanks dude), 500GPM

The only downside is the 1/2" Threads, which is a slight problem since I am using 3/8" ID tubing (5/8" OD)... Does anybody know of some good, non-plastic barbs that I could buy? Thanks

Edit: Found the adapter I need here

Ohh.. First mistake, plastic pump.

That thing is gonna crack as soon as the water hit's about -15c, it's also sealed with an 'o' ring and the impeller is also plastic so it's not going to be fun

wowza · 04-10-06

Quote:

Originally Posted by PetrolHead

Ohh.. First mistake, plastic pump.

That thing is gonna crack as soon as the water hit's about -15c, it's also sealed with an 'o' ring and the impeller is also plastic so it's not going to be fun

Danner mag 3 and up is a very common pump used for water chillers. Yes, a Little Giant or a Iwaki would have been nice, but sheesh, this will do.

Anyways, sorry for the long update, I just returned from College visits to Eastern Wash, and ASU.

I decided to tackle that Pump problem, I decided to ditch the previous idea of having the copper reducer, I decided to go with some barbs. I ran down to the local OSH (huge store) hardware store and picked up some 1/2" barbs with a 3/4" nut to fit my threaded connector on my pump. For the other connector (1/2" barbed) I got a threaded/barbed elbow to fit my 3/8" barb for my water tubing. My pic better explains this. I will probably change that stupid elbow there, I couldn't find any adapter that would do the trick that wasn't an elbow.

Also I got a digital thermy that is good down to -50c (got that for 10 bux shipped on ebay) I also got a water filter, to filter out any goobers returning into the res. and potentally into my evap. Last, I finally got some clear laquer for insulating the back of my motherboard.

Next I will start to cut my tubing to size and start to insulate it.

wowza · 04-11-06

Ok, today I did some basic tubing insulation, and fitting my 3/8" ID tubing to my 1/2" barbs.

For the Insulation, I used this combonation
Tubing -- Pipewrap -- electrical tape -- pipe insulation -- electrical tape
The electrical tape helps shrink down and compact the tubing insualtion, it also makes it look a little neater. This way is probably overkill, but I got a lot of spare pipewrap and a lot of extra electrical tape laying around.

For fitting the tubing on the barbs, I boiled a pot of water, and then stuck in the ends of the tubes for a few moments, then eventually managed to squeeze them over the barbs. Rather basic, but I really cooked my hand in the process

Tommrow night (4/12) I promise to give you my block temps. I am waiting on one small part and then the applyment of my paste and tape, then I am go. In about a month, I will hook this sucker up to my compy and we will see some results, assuming everything goes according to plan.

Pics up, temps tommrow

hen3rz · 04-11-06

Hey that looks awesome. I have just one question. is it always a beter idea to use bigger barbs when attaching your hose?

wowza · 04-11-06

Quote:

Originally Posted by hen3rz

Hey that looks awesome. I have just one question. is it always a beter idea to use bigger barbs when attaching your hose?

well, if it's a better idea, that's personal preference, I mean, I like to attach it to bigger barbs so it is a tighter fit, plus I probably don't have to put on metal tightening clamps, but I will for saftey this time. But the only downside is if it cracks later on due to the freezing tempatures and the weakening of the tubing when I expanded it. Though I won't have this problem because I bought some thick tubing (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD). In this case, I didn't have a choice, I had to get bigger barbs, because it is hard to find stuff in 3/8" sizes, since the standard is really 1/2" and up for water lines. For regular watercooling, I would get the bigger barbs, for a tighter fit

tuchan · 04-11-06

Looking forward to these temps mate

good luck!!!

hen3rz · 04-12-06

Quote:

well, if it's a better idea, that's personal preference, I mean, I like to attach it to bigger barbs so it is a tighter fit, plus I probably don't have to put on metal tightening rings, but I will for saftey this time. But the only downside is if it cracks later on due to the freezing tempatures and the weakening of the tubing when I expanded it. Though I won't have this problem because I bought some thick tubing (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD). In this case, I didn't have a choice, I had to get bigger barbs, because it is hard to find stuff in 3/8" sizes, since the standard is really 1/2" and up for water lines. For regular watercooling, I would get the bigger barbs, for a tighter fit

Thanks fort the response. I too will go for bigger barbs with mine then.

*soloz2* · 04-12-06

yeah, I'm using masterkleer 7/16" ID tubing and 1/2" barbs... I think it should be snug enough for that extra bit of safety

wowza · 04-12-06

Ok, I finished all the insulation on my tubing. As stated above, I used Tubing -- Pipewrap -- electrical tape -- pipe insulation -- electrical tape. The stuff for 1 tube was 2" thick.. Can't be too careful, but I like to keep my stuff cold.

Finally this is starting to look somewhat like a phase setup (minus the pump connections) See for yourself in the pics

Temps tommrow guys for my block.. Any guesses?

		Overclock.net - Overclocking.net > Cooling > Water Cooling
Waterchiller build

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)