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fx-8120 + sabertooth 990fx

12K views 56 replies 19 participants last post by  mattlb0619 
#1 ·
idle
cpu - 46c
vcore1 - 50c
vcore2 - 49c
vcore 1.176v~

load (prime95 - large ffts, 10 minutes)
cpu - 60c
vcore1 - 65c
vcore2 - 58c
vcore - 1.140v

using the coolermaster hyper 212 evo with cougar vortex pwm fans. oc in bios set to manual awith everthing on auto but the memory, set to 1866, the ram default. what is the deal here?

edit: using MASSCOOL G751 Shin-Etsu Thermal Interface Material.... i applied four small(1/4 pea size) dots of paste at the four points of a square onto the cpu. i apllied i once and removed the hs and checked it, looked good. applied it again and put it together havent checked it since then, out of paste. seems to me that the vcore is hot too though so ... ?
 
#27 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlb0619 View Post

i am confused and would like more facts....please.
Quote:
Maximum operating temperature for 8120 = 61°C
Source
Quote:
CPU temp is the package temp, core temp is the temp of the individual cores.
Hope that makes things clear.

Conclusion is core temp > total temp > Max 61

So just keep it below a total of 61.

(@ experts. Tell me if i'm wrong)
 
#28 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlb0619 View Post

i am confused and would like more facts....please.
I agree with truckerguy, your temps are fine. Worry about your Core Temps as different motherboards will read different socket temps. My mobo reads 10°C less than the actual core temp (TMPIN1). The way I see it, you still have 12° of headroom for overclocking. Also, I would opt for some better thermal paste. G751 works ok, but based of the batches I've gotten, its doesnt perform anything like that "80 thermal paste showdown," test says it does. I get about 3-4° cooler using OCZ Freeze.

Also, what fan did you pair to the one that came with the Evo? Are you using the same fan header for both fans? I wonder if maybe they're fighting one another instead of working together. The ideal thing would be to have the exact same type fan on both ends, with a splitter connected to the cpu fan header, and the green wire removed from one of the fans. This way, they both run at the same RPM.

Nice rig BTW! +rep
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338
 
#29 ·
ok thanks guys.... from what i understand going by the average of the cores would be fine?

i chucked the coolermaster fan and put 2x cougar 120mm pwm fans in set to turbo in bios, there are two separate pwm headers for cpu fans.
 
#31 ·
ok so if i push the vcore to 1.4 or the cpu temp hits 67-68, this is with the cores all still under 56, the system just shuts off and i have to pull the power cord to ge it to boot again.... whats the deal now?
 
#33 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlb0619 View Post

ok so if i push the vcore to 1.4 or the cpu temp hits 67-68, this is with the cores all still under 56, the system just shuts off and i have to pull the power cord to ge it to boot again.... whats the deal now?
Well i told you 61 is to high.

Cpu temp is the total / socket.
 
#34 ·
just for reference, from AMD Forums....
Quote:
AMD Temp Information and Guide

We've had a few great threads recently where members contacted AMD and asked what temps they should be looking at, what the max temp was on, and what programs should be used and why. But this information is still scattered and not well defined in one place. It also doesn't quite explain when you should be looking at certain temps. Well I've made it my mission to insure that people are reading the right temps and have been trying my best to give all the information each time I respond without sounding like a broken record. So I decided to write this information thread and little guide to help you out there.

What is "Core Temp" ?

"Core Temp" is what AMD refers to as "TCTL" and is a non-physical temperature on an arbitrary scale measured in degrees. It does not represent an actual physical temperature like die or case temperature.

What is "CPU Temp" ?

"CPU Temp" is read by a sensor in the socket of the motherboard.
It is a physical temperature and therefore will be effected by ambient temps inside the case.

Why should I use "Core Temp" and when?

AMD designed this equation to accurately read peak (45C+) and load temps. It has an equational offset to determine said temps which equalizes at 45C. Since it's designed for peak temps and is a non-physical temperature it cannot read idle temps or account for ambient temps correctly.

So what is "CPU Temp" good for then?

At peak temps this value is typically 7-10C higher (depending on motherboard) than the actual temp due to it being a physical sensor. At idle it's a little more accurate, but still not dead on, and besides idle temps do not matter near as much as load temps do.

AMD says my chip has a [INSERT SPEC] Celsius limit, what value is this referring to? This limit seems kind of low, why?

This is referring to "Core Temp" of course.

So for example Phenom IIs have a recommended 62C "Core Temp" limit while not exceeding 60C for extended periods.

It has long been argued that the recommended limit is merely a larger safety net. There is a thermal shutdown in the chip at 90C and the silicone is rated for 97C+, so it seems plausable that we could indeed go higher, but this guide (and most in general) will simply *nod* and point you to the recommended limit for your chip.

What programs read "Core Temp" ?

AMD recommends the Core Temp program and AMD Overdrive for this reason.

The core section of HWMonitor also reads this value, but be careful as it also shows CPU Temp.

Where are you getting this information?

Aside from the great information threads below, I am a Mechanical & Computer Design Engineer who has several colleagues that either currently work in AMD's engineering department or used to.

Source: OCN Thread #931241
- Information from Alex Cromwell, Senior Technology Director, AMD

Source: OCN Thread #1095360
- Information from AMD Global Customer Care
 
#35 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by motokill36 View Post

Just because core are not reaching there 62 recomended limite dose not mean they will be stable .
What speed are you at on core
thats with the multi still at 20x
 
#36 ·
I still have a lot to learn about this board but one thing that I have surely discovered is that the hotter your vcore gets the hotter your cpu will get. If you can cool down your vcore your CPU temps will drop as well. There are 2 very effective ways to cool down the vcore on this motherboard. You can use a 80mm or smaller high pressure fan and aim it at the mid top of the VRM heatsink or you can aim it at the back of the board between the cpu socket and the black bar that support the vcore heatsink.

The drop in temperature is amazing!

This is a screen shot that I saved showing first without the fan and then turning the fan on then turning it off again, this was air cooled was behind the motherboard. After that I you will see a picture of the way the fan is located now which is on top. Because I never got around to cutting holes in my back panel and because I water cooled the system. Even with water cooling this fan causes a dramatic drop in vrm and a noticable drop in core temps.

Blue is VCORE1 and Yellow is CPU I did this because my VRM could eventually hit 60c without it!

The graph shows a 10c drop in VRM temp with a tiny lil fan. The biger the fan the lesser effect you will get as you are looking for pressure on a small area. Do not go over 80MM. I am going to cut a hole in the side of my case and use a 80MM with this black tube aimed right at the VRM

temps.jpg


00002468.jpg
 
#37 ·
450

338

337

ok so these dont OC for anything or mine is defective...

i removed the 7v reducer on the rear exhaust, its just plugged into the board now. ive also ramped up the rmps at lower temps(40c) for the cpu in the bios.

ps: the cougar fans hate filters.
 
#40 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by konspiracy View Post

Also Try turning all your fans into into intake except your rear fan and remove your pci shields on the back of the case.
I think he means IO shield the plate that is around the usb, sata, sound ports. This makes a huge difference since normally the heat from the VRMs just pocket right there. I left mine on because of the fan I use but when I had my m5 board I did that.

Good recommendation Konspiracy

Also one other thing you can do is to get a tube that runs from the rear fan to the heatsink fan and then make sure they are all running the same direction. This will either make it so that you are pumping in straight cold air from outside the case (works best) or pumping the hot heatsink air right out of the case (helps the mosfets which in turn helps the cpu).

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/th12fandubl.html

202

Also I wanted to show you this. It is hideous and ugly and I would never do this LOL but I did use black construction paper to do the same thing on my brothers 212+ it will raise the air pressure and cool more effectively. Someone on this forum used Jewel cases cut to fit and that looked amazing! There is a more expensive cooler that uses a similar design to the 212 that is sealed. Also my Ultra Chiltech was sealed with side panels as well!

146
 
#41 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by konspiracy View Post

Also Try turning all your fans into into intake except your rear fan and remove your pci shields on the back of the case.
I think he means IO shield the plate that is around the usb, sata, sound ports. This makes a huge difference since normally the heat from the VRMs just pocket right there. I left mine on because of the fan I use but when I had my m5 board I did that.

Good recommendation Konspiracy

Also one other thing you can do is to get a tube that runs from the rear fan to the heatsink fan and then make sure they are all running the same direction. This will either make it so that you are pumping in straight cold air from outside the case (works best) or pumping the hot heatsink air right out of the case (helps the mosfets which in turn helps the cpu).

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/th12fandubl.html

202

Also I wanted to show you this. It is hideous and ugly and I would never do this LOL but I did use black construction paper to do the same thing on my brothers 212+ it will raise the air pressure and cool more effectively. Someone on this forum used Jewel cases cut to fit and that looked amazing! There is a more expensive cooler that uses a similar design to the 212 that is sealed. Also my Ultra Chiltech was sealed with side panels as well!

146
I did something like that with my A70 tower cooler.
And I mean the Pci empty slot protectors things, remove them. The OCN fan guru dude did tests with that and saw a gain.
 
#43 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlb0619 View Post

k thanks for the info guys...
is the xspc rasa kit worth getting or am i just at the limit of my chip? where do the have it in stock?
FROZENCPU stocks them if you buy it make sure you find a 10% off coupon that is what I used.

I love the kit it brought my temps down 15-20c even better is that its silent if you want it to be. The pump on mine makes NO noise at all I did make sure that I never ran the pump dry. I would probably buy the RX240 not the RS240 if it is in stock but that was not an option for me since it was not in stock. I think you should already have 1 Cooler Master PWM fan because of your current cooler which means you should get 1 more and use them instead of the stock fans because they have a higher static pressure than most other fans which is very important for the RX rad and even the RS and because they are PWM which means you can run them down really low. I do not hear mine at all when they are at less than 40% duty. Also as the recent PWM fan shootout showed the CM PWM fan is about the best one there is if you look at the DB at 1300rpm compared to others at 1300RPM don't look at the duty % the person who did the tests should have tested them all at a specific low and specific hi point to make they where easier to compare. Remember that there must be a 3dB difference between 2 sound levels for the human ear to tell the difference so if you care about the sound lvl again nothing actually beats those CM fans especially at $10.
 
#44 ·
would the h100 be a viable option?... it would be push pull, ive already got the fans and the space; main reasoning is that i like the warranty if it leaks.
 
#48 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlb0619 View Post

its on the way... any tips?
I bought one recently to just make sure it fits your chassi and also invest in some more fans for push & pull.

My idle temp is 8c @ 4.4 Ghz hardly go above 38+ when i'm playing games.
 
#50 ·
after drilling a few holes the xspc rx360 will fit...a h100 wont be an issue.

nothing is final yet, h100 isnt here, im at 1.35v 4.3ghz, 29c idle 53c load. hopefully with the h100 i can get some more out of it.

thanks 2advanced, its mostly the case but it did take some time. might pull the board when the h100 arrives and reroute the cpu power cable.
 
#51 ·
339

1.35v 4.3ghz after h100, 19c min 49c max on medium corsair setting. 2x cougar fans push, 2x corsair fans pull, the corsiar fans are very loud.

before the h100 i had 1.35v 4.3ghz, 29c idle 53c load, using the hyper 212 evo with cougar fans in push pull... more updates to come.
 
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