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post #41 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 02:54 PM
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okay.. so i did a little research on AHCI and it looks like this will only work if you have an SSD or will i see a change in performance in my HDD? Do you mind telling me how i go about changing this setting in my bios.?

The native mode of all SATA devices is AHCI. Simply SSDs are the ones who take most advantage of it, because mechanical hard drives are limited by their spinning speeds. This said, all HDDs benefit from AHCI. How much, depends on the drive. Don't expect miracles.

See here, old, but relevant article:

http://expertester.wordpress.com/2008/07/24/ahci-vs-ide-%E2%80%93-benchmark-advantage/

At the bottom of the page, also has link on how to change from IDE to Ahci without reformatting. It's for Vista, but may still work for 7. If not, google something relevant.

I don't know your motherboard's BIOS, so i can't tell you exactly how it will be there. There must be somewhere an option where you can set either IDE or Ahci. But, if it's currently set on IDE, turning it to Ahci simply won't make it work (i think it may even bork it). You need to also change the driver in Windows, as the article says.
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post #42 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Undervolter View Post

The native mode of all SATA devices is AHCI. Simply SSDs are the ones who take most advantage of it, because mechanical hard drives are limited by their spinning speeds. This said, all HDDs benefit from AHCI. How much, depends on the drive. Don't expect miracles.

See here, old, but relevant article:

http://expertester.wordpress.com/2008/07/24/ahci-vs-ide-%E2%80%93-benchmark-advantage/

At the bottom of the page, also has link on how to change from IDE to Ahci without reformatting. It's for Vista, but may still work for 7. If not, google something relevant.

I don't know your motherboard's BIOS, so i can't tell you exactly how it will be there. There must be somewhere an option where you can set either IDE or Ahci. But, if it's currently set on IDE, turning it to Ahci simply won't make it work (i think it may even bork it). You need to also change the driver in Windows, as the article says.


So I just had had a flash back! and I think I attached my HDD to the SATA 3Gb the only reason I think this is because I pulled up a pic of my mobo and I plugged the HDD to the 2 dark ports! And they are SATA 3GB so this may be the cause!

MOBO: Asus Sabertooth 990fx
CPU: FX-8320 (clocked at 4.0)
COOLER: Corsair H55 water cooler
GPU: EVGA GTX 760 2gb (SC)
PSU: Corsair 750watt gold
OS: Windows 7 Primium
CASE FANS: 5
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post #43 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Undervolter View Post

The native mode of all SATA devices is AHCI. Simply SSDs are the ones who take most advantage of it, because mechanical hard drives are limited by their spinning speeds. This said, all HDDs benefit from AHCI. How much, depends on the drive. Don't expect miracles.

See here, old, but relevant article:

http://expertester.wordpress.com/2008/07/24/ahci-vs-ide-%E2%80%93-benchmark-advantage/

At the bottom of the page, also has link on how to change from IDE to Ahci without reformatting. It's for Vista, but may still work for 7. If not, google something relevant.

I don't know your motherboard's BIOS, so i can't tell you exactly how it will be there. There must be somewhere an option where you can set either IDE or Ahci. But, if it's currently set on IDE, turning it to Ahci simply won't make it work (i think it may even bork it). You need to also change the driver in Windows, as the article says.

So I just had had a flash back! and I think I attached my HDD to the SATA 3Gb the only reason I think this is because I pulled up a pic of my mobo and I plugged the HDD to the 2 dark ports! And they are SATA 3GB so this may be the cause! Can i just unplug it and put it on the 6gb or will this be an issue and make me re install windows =( btw thank you for all your help as you can tell im new at all this.

MOBO: Asus Sabertooth 990fx
CPU: FX-8320 (clocked at 4.0)
COOLER: Corsair H55 water cooler
GPU: EVGA GTX 760 2gb (SC)
PSU: Corsair 750watt gold
OS: Windows 7 Primium
CASE FANS: 5
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post #44 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 08:02 PM
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You should be able to power down, swap the sata location, and power back up as if nothing has happened IIRC. During the POST process (Power On Self Test), the computer scans all of its ports and then checks each one for a boot record. Since that HDD is the only one with a boot record, you should be fine. That said, I don't think that's likely you're problem. Mechanical HDD's still have a hard time saturating a Sata 2 link, let alone a sata 3 link. But its worth a shot.

Personally it sounds like either throttling in the VRM's, or even just not enough voltage. Also, have you set the power mode in windows to "high performance"?. Have you compared it to your computers stock speed? Does stock feel sluggish too? Have you benchmarked anything at stock and at the OC and compared the numbers? Also, "sluggish" is a kind of vague term. What exactly do you mean by that?

Sorry for all the questions, but hopefully we can get this sorted out for you.

Good luck thumb.gif.
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post #45 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 09:51 PM - Thread Starter
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You should be able to power down, swap the sata location, and power back up as if nothing has happened IIRC. During the POST process (Power On Self Test), the computer scans all of its ports and then checks each one for a boot record. Since that HDD is the only one with a boot record, you should be fine. That said, I don't think that's likely you're problem. Mechanical HDD's still have a hard time saturating a Sata 2 link, let alone a sata 3 link. But its worth a shot.

Personally it sounds like either throttling in the VRM's, or even just not enough voltage. Also, have you set the power mode in windows to "high performance"?. Have you compared it to your computers stock speed? Does stock feel sluggish too? Have you benchmarked anything at stock and at the OC and compared the numbers? Also, "sluggish" is a kind of vague term. What exactly do you mean by that?

Sorry for all the questions, but hopefully we can get this sorted out for you.

Good luck thumb.gif.

Thank you for all your help. Everything was lagging and taking for ever to pull up (that's what I meant by sluggish).. My boot time was like 2min and 30 sec sime times 3min (used stop watch) I did try with stock clock and everything got better but still a little slow so i just went ahead and re-installed windows and all updates everything is working fine now =) I just have to find a way to make my OC run smooth.... doh.gif this is giving me cold sweats cant sleep at night lol

MOBO: Asus Sabertooth 990fx
CPU: FX-8320 (clocked at 4.0)
COOLER: Corsair H55 water cooler
GPU: EVGA GTX 760 2gb (SC)
PSU: Corsair 750watt gold
OS: Windows 7 Primium
CASE FANS: 5
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post #46 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 10:54 PM
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UltimatePlatano, don't worry. There is no need to panic. If anything, you came to the right place. I am sure that "Overclock.net", has many overclockers to guide you through. If you want my advice, again, start with Intel Burn Test set at "Very High". Run it once (10 passes), If it passes, then run Prime95 for 12h. If it passes too, then you 're stable (95% certainty). Run then again Prime95 with largeFFT for another 12h. If you are stable, you have 99% certainty you are stable. If Intel Burn Test fails, don't run Prime. Increase voltage a notch and run Intel Burn Test again. When you find a vcore value where Intel Burn Test passes, then you run Prime.

This way you save a lot of time.

I am sure some goodhearted overclocker here, will be able to give you finetuning advice.

Good luck and don't worry.
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post #47 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 06:06 AM
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This is the ram I use is it any good? And can it be OC? If so how can I accomplish this?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148544

The Ballistix Sport kit is pretty good actually. I can get more bandwidth out of the $60 sport kit than I can get out of an $80 Ripjaw X kit on the FX-6300 memory controller. I'm not sure if the memory controller plays nicer with the micron chips, or if perhaps the ripjaw kit is a single rank per dim instead of dual rank, in any case, the ballistix sport kit can indeed be overclocked, but the real world performance advantages are hit and miss, mostly miss. It's mostly just fun to tinker with. I found just as much performance in most workloads at 1600MT/s with tight timings as with any high overclocked speed. YMMV. I've since moved the Sport kit over to our APU rig and running it at 2133MT/s over there without any problems so far. (The APU rig likes bandwidth for the GPU)

A CPU performance comparison chart.

"Kind of a ring thing, comes with a dialer, you hit the symbols, it spins around and lights come on, it kind of flushes sideways" -O'Neill
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post #48 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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UltimatePlatano, don't worry. There is no need to panic. If anything, you came to the right place. I am sure that "Overclock.net", has many overclockers to guide you through. If you want my advice, again, start with Intel Burn Test set at "Very High". Run it once (10 passes), If it passes, then run Prime95 for 12h. If it passes too, then you 're stable (95% certainty). Run then again Prime95 with largeFFT for another 12h. If you are stable, you have 99% certainty you are stable. If Intel Burn Test fails, don't run Prime. Increase voltage a notch and run Intel Burn Test again. When you find a vcore value where Intel Burn Test passes, then you run Prime.

This way you save a lot of time.

I am sure some goodhearted overclocker here, will be able to give you finetuning advice.

Good luck and don't worry.

thank you smile.gif I'll try these steps next.

MOBO: Asus Sabertooth 990fx
CPU: FX-8320 (clocked at 4.0)
COOLER: Corsair H55 water cooler
GPU: EVGA GTX 760 2gb (SC)
PSU: Corsair 750watt gold
OS: Windows 7 Primium
CASE FANS: 5
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post #49 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 02:37 PM
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Are you overclocking with the reference clock, or with the CPU multiplier?

If you're overclocking with the multiplier, then there is no way that the ram is being unstable (unless its unstable at stock speeds) because the ram speed is adjusted separately from the CPU speed unless you adjust the reference clock. So if you want to upgrade your ram, by all means, but don't feel like you need to for stabilities sake.

And if the problems disappeared after the reformat and clean install of windows, then it sounds like you had some slight corruption issues on your old install, probably from some of your earlier unstable overclocking attempts. I could be wrong, but that's what I'd say. I had similar experiences when my first windows install started going bad.

The other option though is the hard drive. How long have you had the drive? Just to be sure, I'd run something like Seagates "SeaTools" hard drive tests and see if the drive is starting to go bad.

Good luck smile.gif.
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post #50 of 51 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Are you overclocking with the reference clock, or with the CPU multiplier?

If you're overclocking with the multiplier, then there is no way that the ram is being unstable (unless its unstable at stock speeds) because the ram speed is adjusted separately from the CPU speed unless you adjust the reference clock. So if you want to upgrade your ram, by all means, but don't feel like you need to for stabilities sake.

And if the problems disappeared after the reformat and clean install of windows, then it sounds like you had some slight corruption issues on your old install, probably from some of your earlier unstable overclocking attempts. I could be wrong, but that's what I'd say. I had similar experiences when my first windows install started going bad.

The other option though is the hard drive. How long have you had the drive? Just to be sure, I'd run something like Seagates "SeaTools" hard drive tests and see if the drive is starting to go bad.

Good luck smile.gif.

the only thing I'm doing is messing with the CPU multipliers (we you set the clock speed) and the voltages... Should I be messing with something else? Or is the multiplier and voltage the main settings to Chang during over clocking? To answer your question about the HDD its only about 5 months old... I think my OS was corrupted because I tried to lower the vcore more and got like 4 bsod. But please tell me should I mess with other setting other then the voltages? Because to my understanding of is all about low vcore and high clock speed..

MOBO: Asus Sabertooth 990fx
CPU: FX-8320 (clocked at 4.0)
COOLER: Corsair H55 water cooler
GPU: EVGA GTX 760 2gb (SC)
PSU: Corsair 750watt gold
OS: Windows 7 Primium
CASE FANS: 5
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