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8350 FX + MSI 970 Gaming Mobo OC

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post #21 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by cssorkinman View Post
You're at the limit of what that cooler can do on it's best day .

If you keep that board cool and never let it overheat - it can push the 8 cores to 4.7 + on most 8 core vishera's as daily prime stable clocks. BUT if you let it overheat the VRMS it will damage the thermal pads and in turn singe the VRMs. After that all bets are off. By what you've described, you've probably already cooked the pads , I'd remove the heatsink and replace them with new if they look damaged at all.

I could get 4.9 ghz fully stable on mine - but that was with the best power and cooling I have ( 910 watt pc power and cooling psu and a 480mm custom loop.) For gaming etc I could run faster.
Alright. Thanks for that. Also, been searching and nobody really touches down on this so I have a mixed idea on what it actually is. Do the fans on the CPU intake or exhaust? I'm leaning towards intake, but I'd like some confirmation.

EDIT: Looked around, got mixed answers but looking at the picture I took, it looks like an intake. So I'll go with that.

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post #22 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 08:58 PM
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Does the VRM heatsink that I see in the picture use those plastic push spring pins?


If so, a couple small thin bolts, nuts, and plastic washers to isolate the back of the board could result in much better cooling due to much better thermal pad contact via the better tension
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post #23 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 09:02 PM
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I forgot to add, your cpu-nb voltage looks pretty low. Get the nrothbridge set to around 2400 (or in this case, 2520mhz with that 210 FSB and a 12x multi) and run the cpu-nb voltage to 1.325.



1.325 is probably a touch higher than you NEED, but it wont add any noticable temp increase, maybe 1-2*C, but that extra performance and stability is worth it!
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post #24 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 11:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
Does the VRM heatsink that I see in the picture use those plastic push spring pins?


If so, a couple small thin bolts, nuts, and plastic washers to isolate the back of the board could result in much better cooling due to much better thermal pad contact via the better tension
I believe there are 2 screws on the back of the motherboard to remove the heatsink. Inside is a strip for the thermal pad and like 12+ parts it's cooling down (don't know the name). You'll also have to explain exactly what you're meaning about the nuts and bolts.

Quote: Originally Posted by mattliston View Post
I forgot to add, your cpu-nb voltage looks pretty low. Get the nrothbridge set to around 2400 (or in this case, 2520mhz with that 210 FSB and a 12x multi) and run the cpu-nb voltage to 1.325.


1.325 is probably a touch higher than you NEED, but it wont add any noticable temp increase, maybe 1-2*C, but that extra performance and stability is worth it!

The NBv is low because I wasn't using it. At 4.4ghz, I don't need NB at all. The problem is, if I want that 100mhz, I need to double the voltage to the CPU and add voltage everywhere else, when the 400 mhz I already added only required 0.07v on just the CPU to work perfectly. I'll try what you said and see what happens.

Also off topic, they should really have a different design for computer cases. If the mobo and all it's parts were right next to intake fans instead of reversed, I imagine it would cool easier. The problem is the IO ports. I'm sure those could all be controlled with some wires, but I imagine it would be quite a few.

Have a feeling my CPU is going to overheat if I try it at the required voltage. Tried it with 0.07v on CPU, didn't work. 0.10v, it's nearly at the point where it will shut down. I dont think adding it to where I know it will work, 0.14v would make it crash, but it likely will.

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post #25 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 11:54 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by EGC View Post
Yup. I already know that's one of the main issues. Don't really want to spend too much money but I'll look into it. I'd love a radiator, but again, not really ready for all that.
Strap a 92mm Delta to that for a cheap (but loud) increase in performance.
Search eBay for AUB0912VH. Should be about $5.
Specs: 3800RPM, 67.8CFM, 7.67mmH2O, 45dBA. Check the listing's photo for the PWM version (standard 4 pin fan connector, NOT the server hot swap units) for quieter running at idle.



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post #26 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 11:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote: Originally Posted by ltpdttcdft View Post
Strap a 92mm Delta to that for a cheap (but loud) increase in performance.
Search eBay for AUB0912VH. Should be about $5.
Specs: 3800RPM, 67.8CFM, 7.67mmH2O, 45dBA. Check the listing's photo for the PWM version (standard 4 pin fan connector, NOT the server hot swap units) for quieter running at idle.
I think mine is a 3 pin. I do however have a 4 pin on my board, so it won't be an issue. I'll go ahead and look.

EDIT: I was actually talking about the wraith cooler on my CPU, not just a standard fan.

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post #27 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 12:07 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by EGC View Post
I think mine is a 3 pin. I do however have a 4 pin on my board, so it won't be an issue. I'll go ahead and look.

EDIT: I was actually talking about the wraith cooler on my CPU, not just a standard fan.
What I meant was replace the stock fan on the Wraith. The AUB0912VH is significantly more powerful than the QFR0912H that comes with it.



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post #28 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 12:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I figured that's what you meant. Issue is, this one clips onto the heatsink. The ones you linked seem to require screws.

EDIT: Tried it again with the settings mentioned, just the NBcpu etc. Added to the voltage I know is required for 4.5ghz to run stable. Mobo and CPU didn't reach max temps and it shut down. If it's not reaching max temps and it gets enough power but shuts down anyway, what is that?

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post #29 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 12:26 AM
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The top part that clips on the Wraith should be removable. Tom's Hardware was able to take it apart:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews...oler,4450.html

Even if they changed it so the fan isn't a separate part anymore you can just (carefully!) unclip the whole thing and attach the new fan manually.
On my own stock cooler (older non-wraith version) I just tied the fan on with twist ties looped around the heatpipes.
Only thing you'll lose is aesthetics and the light under the AMD logo.



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post #30 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 01:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok so, how much of a difference would that fan make? Also, what is the best fan possible to have? Just for reference.

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